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This is a discussion on So undecided within the Freshwater and Tropical Fish forums, part of the Freshwater Fish and Aquariums category; --> I had this problem and rather than draining the water, kept priming the pump and it eventually got running Also, the amount of bubbles ...

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Old 04-13-2007, 01:12 PM   #21
 
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I had this problem and rather than draining the water, kept priming the pump and it eventually got running Also, the amount of bubbles in the water doesn't help the condition, so turning down the speed should also introduce less bubbles into the system.
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Old 04-13-2007, 01:34 PM   #22
 
I am not trying to cause you problems here Woodenchef but only to help.

I would very strongly recommend not cutting your intake and return lines.

If you look on the lines you will see that their size is Metric (probably 9MM).

If you ever need them the length they are now you will be making a trip to Lowe's in order to procure two adapters (reducers) and 8" of a larger size line and then however many feet you need of the closest "English equivalent" diameter to the existing lines.

Then when you get home I would recommend clearing out the wife and kids (if any of these) due the verbiage associated with the pleasure of getting the Metric size line onto the English size adapter where it will remain affixed. (this Southern Engineered system will also reduce the efficiency of your pumping system due to the expansion and contraction losses through the reducers and the 8" patch line)

TR
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Old 04-14-2007, 02:46 PM   #23
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leifthebunny
I had this problem and rather than draining the water, kept priming the pump and it eventually got running Also, the amount of bubbles in the water doesn't help the condition, so turning down the speed should also introduce less bubbles into the system.
Well, I thought my issues were over. I'm still getting a lot of air when I turn the pump on full blast. After looking at the intake line, I see that there is a lot of incoming air and was told by my lfs that this is actually from the intake having a leak somewhere. You might want to make sure everything is screwed in tight and there are no leaks.
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Old 04-14-2007, 05:26 PM   #24
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leifthebunny
Quote:
Originally Posted by leifthebunny
I had this problem and rather than draining the water, kept priming the pump and it eventually got running Also, the amount of bubbles in the water doesn't help the condition, so turning down the speed should also introduce less bubbles into the system.
Well, I thought my issues were over. I'm still getting a lot of air when I turn the pump on full blast. After looking at the intake line, I see that there is a lot of incoming air and was told by my lfs that this is actually from the intake having a leak somewhere. You might want to make sure everything is screwed in tight and there are no leaks.
Ok, finally resolved my issues. I'm sure this time. In an effort to make sure everything was tight, I pushed the intake pipe on too tight. Aparently, there are a pair of grooves that break the seal if the intake is pushed on to the bracket too hard.
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Old 04-14-2007, 09:23 PM   #25
 
I fixed my problem also with all the micro-bubbles (cut hoses shorter and made them run in a more staighter fashion). Now, BAH I have what looks like thousands of little white particles floating around in the water and also a foamy like substance on top of water. I am in my third day of cycling, is this normal?
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Old 04-14-2007, 10:17 PM   #26
 
No: it is not normal
BUT
these types of problems frequently cure themselves with time.

How are you cycling your tank?

TR
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Old 04-14-2007, 11:29 PM   #27
 
It looks like it was still too much air, it looked like little white particles but it must have been them micro-bubbles still. I had my output pointed down so i changed the direction to point outwards just skimming the surface like a little wave. Water is now clear.

I am using this bio-support and condioner that I got from the LFS. Guy said i can put fish in in 24hrs. It has been cycling since Thursday and I just checked the water using a dye kit, it shows 0 nitrite and 0 ammonia.

Do you think its safe to add fish? I am thing of adding the following starting with the following 9 - livebearers and adding next batch once a week there after, it's a 100G corner type aquarium



9 - livebearers (platys)
9 - tertras
2 - kissing gouramis
2 - blue gouramis
2 - honey gouramis
2 - loaches (the ones i seen were like a little eel i liked with stripes foget the name)


Will this be too much or should it work?
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Old 04-14-2007, 11:50 PM   #28
 
New aquarium pic

It's not the best picture but here is link to my new setup

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/wooden...nm=dd6dre2.jpg
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Old 04-15-2007, 01:25 AM   #29
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodenchef
I am using this bio-support and condioner that I got from the LFS. Guy said i can put fish in in 24hrs. It has been cycling since Thursday and I just checked the water using a dye kit, it shows 0 nitrite and 0 ammonia.
What the guy said sounds like a lot of waffle to me. Is the dye kit a test kit with test strips? If so, an API Freshwater Master liquid test kit is recommended, not that one. Test strips do not give accurate results. How about your nitrates? At this point, it is likely to be zero. Tank has not cycled with zero ammonia and nitrites. Ammonia must spike followed by nitrites in a few days and finally, nitrates.

I am glad you asked before you could add fish. Many a hobbyist ended up killing all their fish after adding them immediately in the tank which has not finished cycling, thanks to the ' correct information' by lfs employees. Cycling does not take place in 24 hours. It takes plenty of time and patience.

Quote:
Do you think its safe to add fish? I am thing of adding the following starting with the following 9 - livebearers and adding next batch once a week there after, it's a 100G corner type aquarium

9 - livebearers (platys)
9 - tertras
2 - kissing gouramis
2 - blue gouramis
2 - honey gouramis
2 - loaches (the ones i seen were like a little eel i liked with stripes foget the name)


Will this be too much or should it work?
Your stocking list may need adjustment. Ditch the kissing gouramis. They grow to 12 inches at most which gives them the chance to harass other fish in the future.

What tetras are those? There are several tetras available and vary in sizes. Tetras thrive better in soft, acidic water which is most likely to become the platies' problem. I'd suggest ditching the platies from the list. Other options are harlequin rasboras, praecox rainbows, threadfin rainbows(I cannot suggest this unless tetras planned are not generally nippy), apistogramma, blue rams, keyholes, hengeli rasboras, cherry barbs, etc.

If I may make a suggestion, I prefer the elegant pearl gouramis compared to the drab blue gouramis. Oh well..Blue gouramis are common and mostly wild-caught because they're native here anyway. Honey gouramis are also great choices. White cloud mountain minnows and hatchetfish are also good choices for surface dwellers.

The loach you are referring to is a Pangio kuhli. They love the company of their own. In a 100 gallons, you can fit almost 15 kuhlis in that. Cories, otos and true Siamese Algae Eaters are also good options. SAEs eat hair algae quite diligently whereas otos consume diatoms.
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Old 04-15-2007, 07:43 AM   #30
 
Thanks for the advice on choosing my fish. The kit I am using uses the dye drops (not the strips). It still shows 0 - ammonia and 0 - nitrite, this bio-support conditioner was suppose to kick start the cycle with introduced bacteria. This is why I am wondering why both readings still show zero now on the fourth day (should spike not be happening). I have double-checked the instructions for testing water and am adding correct amount of drops per water.

My daughter is going to be upset, this kissing gourami is her favorite.
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