set up my 55 gal - criticism wanted! - Page 3 - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources
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post #21 of 82 Old 05-02-2012, 04:52 PM Thread Starter
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i got these small neon glowfish the other day and one of them already died, his mouth was wide open (it looks like his top lip was missing) he started swimming towards the catfish and they nipped at him and he kept doing it and died later that day.

are the catfish a bad combo or are the fish just defected? 2/6 of the glofish have a missing top lip and one of them died so now its 1/5

hes not eating either.
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post #22 of 82 Old 05-02-2012, 06:18 PM
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What species is the catfish, and how many? From one of the earlier photos it looks like a Pictus Catfish, these get large and can eat other fish, though I'm not saying it was in your case. If a fish is weak the others in the tank can sense it and some will then go after it. Check the profile (click the shaded name) to see if that is the catfish you have.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #23 of 82 Old 05-02-2012, 06:41 PM
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Originally Posted by slojko View Post
thank you, do you know anything about water heaters?
You don't have a heater in there with those Tetra? They like warm water, around 78°F would be perfect for them.

I've had three different brands of heaters. The two I'm using right now are Marineland (for my betta's tank) and Eheim Jager (for my Tetra tank). The Marineland isn't as slick looking at the Eheim or as well designed and constructed, but I've found the temperature gauge on the Eheim is 5° off the thermostat. Bit annoying, but just takes a bit of adjustment to get right. I would still recommend one of these, and they're only a bit more expensive than the other brands on the market.

EDIT: I just read your latest post about one of your Tetra dying. Please google before adding anything more to your tank. I don't know what kind of catfish you got, but some of them can be too aggressive for a community tank with Tetra.

Last edited by Stormfish; 05-02-2012 at 06:44 PM.
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post #24 of 82 Old 05-02-2012, 08:16 PM Thread Starter
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What species is the catfish, and how many? From one of the earlier photos it looks like a Pictus Catfish, these get large and can eat other fish, though I'm not saying it was in your case. If a fish is weak the others in the tank can sense it and some will then go after it. Check the profile (click the shaded name) to see if that is the catfish you have.
those are the kind i got, they only nipped at the ones that walked into them (fishs with no top lip)

i just got a liquid test kit and ill be posting my results in a little bit.

it is defiantly some sort of fungus infection after some googling. i did a 20% water change so i hope that helps.
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post #25 of 82 Old 05-02-2012, 08:18 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stormfish View Post
You don't have a heater in there with those Tetra? They like warm water, around 78°F would be perfect for them.

I've had three different brands of heaters. The two I'm using right now are Marineland (for my betta's tank) and Eheim Jager (for my Tetra tank). The Marineland isn't as slick looking at the Eheim or as well designed and constructed, but I've found the temperature gauge on the Eheim is 5° off the thermostat. Bit annoying, but just takes a bit of adjustment to get right. I would still recommend one of these, and they're only a bit more expensive than the other brands on the market.

EDIT: I just read your latest post about one of your Tetra dying. Please google before adding anything more to your tank. I don't know what kind of catfish you got, but some of them can be too aggressive for a community tank with Tetra.
the one i had malfunctioned and brought the water to 90 degrees, but
my room is 76 degrees on average and my thermometer reads 72-78 all the time so ill be getting a heater next week.
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post #26 of 82 Old 05-02-2012, 08:39 PM Thread Starter
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PH - 7.4 7.8

AMMONIA .50ppm - 1.0 ppm

NITRITE 0ppm - .25 ppm

NITRATE 5.0ppm

these were tested AFTER i did a water change and added Prime.
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post #27 of 82 Old 05-02-2012, 08:42 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stormfish View Post
You don't have a heater in there with those Tetra? They like warm water, around 78°F would be perfect for them.

I've had three different brands of heaters. The two I'm using right now are Marineland (for my betta's tank) and Eheim Jager (for my Tetra tank). The Marineland isn't as slick looking at the Eheim or as well designed and constructed, but I've found the temperature gauge on the Eheim is 5° off the thermostat. Bit annoying, but just takes a bit of adjustment to get right. I would still recommend one of these, and they're only a bit more expensive than the other brands on the market.

EDIT: I just read your latest post about one of your Tetra dying. Please google before adding anything more to your tank. I don't know what kind of catfish you got, but some of them can be too aggressive for a community tank with Tetra.
the tetra i was talking about was a red florescent zebra fish and the catfish is the Pictus Catfish .
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post #28 of 82 Old 05-02-2012, 08:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slojko View Post
PH - 7.4 7.8

AMMONIA .50ppm - 1.0 ppm

NITRITE 0ppm - .25 ppm

NITRATE 5.0ppm

these were tested AFTER i did a water change and added Prime.
Prime detoxifies ammonia and nitrite in a manner that will still cause them to be evident in tests. Prime is effective for 24-36 hours according to Seachem. If numbers are still evident in tests after that period, another water change shold be done. Ths is the standard procedure durng cycling.

Lots of live plants, esp floating, should eliminate this.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #29 of 82 Old 05-02-2012, 08:52 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Byron View Post
Prime detoxifies ammonia and nitrite in a manner that will still cause them to be evident in tests. Prime is effective for 24-36 hours according to Seachem. If numbers are still evident in tests after that period, another water change shold be done. Ths is the standard procedure durng cycling.

Lots of live plants, esp floating, should eliminate this.
thanks! i will take another test saturday morning.

i have 3 live plants and like 10 of these stringy plants you can see in my second set of pictures. how many more would i need? im looking at java moss, aponogeton crispus, corkscrew val, and watersprite. 2 of each?

Pictured:







Last edited by slojko; 05-02-2012 at 09:00 PM.
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post #30 of 82 Old 05-02-2012, 10:05 PM Thread Starter
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im going to return my fish-eating catfish and hopefully find some smaller ones to buy.

any recommendations?

also, one of my zebra fish are pregnant.
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