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New to this. My fish keep dying, usually when I do water changes or add fish.

This is a discussion on New to this. My fish keep dying, usually when I do water changes or add fish. within the Freshwater and Tropical Fish forums, part of the Freshwater Fish and Aquariums category; --> Originally Posted by JennJenn83 Just regular hood lights Fluorescent tubes, or screw-in bulbs? If tubes, what is written on one end of the tube ...

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New to this. My fish keep dying, usually when I do water changes or add fish.
Old 08-07-2010, 01:41 PM   #31
 
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Originally Posted by JennJenn83 View Post
Just regular hood lights
Fluorescent tubes, or screw-in bulbs? If tubes, what is written on one end of the tube (the watts, K (kelvin) number, name, etc., and how long is the tube itself (and how many)?
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Old 08-11-2010, 12:30 PM   #32
 
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Fluorescent tubes, or screw-in bulbs? If tubes, what is written on one end of the tube (the watts, K (kelvin) number, name, etc., and how long is the tube itself (and how many)?

Sorry it took me so long to get back with you! I have been very busy, I didn't even get a chance to buy anymore fish this weekend.

I am using 18 inch fluorescent tubes. The number is F15, 510 lumens,15 watts,90k . It is a GE bulb. But my second hood light is not working. Do you have any ideas on some DIY to replace the light part?
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Old 08-11-2010, 01:12 PM   #33
 
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I am useless at electrical repairs. I would get a new fixture. But others may have advice.
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Old 08-11-2010, 02:05 PM   #34
 
I just skimmed through this topic and it seems no one even mentioned that the PH in the OP's tank is high and unsuitable for neons... I keep mine at around 6.5, OP says their tank is at 7.4-7.6, right?

Last edited by CaliforniaFishkeeper; 08-11-2010 at 02:07 PM..
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Old 08-11-2010, 03:20 PM   #35
 
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I just skimmed through this topic and it seems no one even mentioned that the PH in the OP's tank is high and unsuitable for neons... I keep mine at around 6.5, OP says their tank is at 7.4-7.6, right?

I will note that, but I've had my neons for about 3 weeks now and they seem just fine. Yes my ph usually stays between 7.4 and 7.6 Thanks!
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Old 08-11-2010, 03:31 PM   #36
 
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I will note that, but I've had my neons for about 3 weeks now and they seem just fine. Yes my ph usually stays between 7.4 and 7.6 Thanks!
Just fine isn't the same as thriving. If they're not dropping like flies then you're probably "just fine," but for them to truly be happy in their environment, they need a lower PH.
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Old 08-11-2010, 04:29 PM   #37
 
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Just fine isn't the same as thriving. If they're not dropping like flies then you're probably "just fine," but for them to truly be happy in their environment, they need a lower PH.
Ok thanks for your input.
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Old 08-11-2010, 06:35 PM   #38
 
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Byron, was wondering if you could help me one some filtration questions.

Ok, I have been doing some research. I have a question about my HOB filters. I have read that I could use other material besided using the filter cartridges. Would this be my best option and what suggestions do you have about what I should put in it and how it should be stacked in the filter. thanks
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Old 08-11-2010, 08:20 PM   #39
 
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Byron, was wondering if you could help me one some filtration questions.

Ok, I have been doing some research. I have a question about my HOB filters. I have read that I could use other material besided using the filter cartridges. Would this be my best option and what suggestions do you have about what I should put in it and how it should be stacked in the filter. thanks
First I must mention that I am not a fan of HOB filters. Reason being they usually produce a strong current that cannot be controlled, either in its intensity or direction. One can make "baffles" to lessen the current, and some may have directional spouts that can be aimed at end walls to reduce the flow, but most are basic waterfalls. These are fine if you have fish that need current, some do. But most forest fish do not, and in planted tanks we do not want currents above something fairly insignificant. Also, the inlet and outflow are adjoining (more or less) and this is less effective in creating a good flow throughout the tank (important for not only filtration but maintaining an even temperature). In larger tanks, canisters solve this latter problem, plus they can be adjusted by positioning the outflow spraybar/spigot against the end wall, and most have a control valve.

I mention that to start because replacing the filter may not be much more than trying to fix it. For a 45g I would use a sponge filter with an air pump. A canister is another option, much more expensive. I use canisters on tanks over 55g, sponge on tanks under 50g.

But, if you stick with the HOB, remove the carbon inserts and replace them with plain filter wood. You can use the loose material and stuff some in (not too tight or it will block the water flow completely and flood) or get the sponge-type blocks and cut it to fit.
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Old 08-11-2010, 08:48 PM   #40
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You can use this stuff instead of the loose stuff if you don't want to mess with a bunch of fibers, just cut it to size, they should have it at both petsmart and petco, also smaller shops might carry it too. Plus if you cant afford to go out and buy the sponge filter, air line, and air pump you can just use that same stuff in your HOB to reduce the current like I did.

I've noticed since doing that the particles in my water travel less then 1 cm / sec compared with before it was around 5 or 6 cm / sec, its not optimal, but it is a good temporary solution. The plants that were getting blown around before, are no longer and starting to recover, plus all the floating plants were struggling for something to grab onto with the high current aren't anymore.
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