11-26-2013, 11:29 PM
| || |
Agree with the shims. Had to do that with my 125, no problems. One observation, stands are sometimes really lousy quality (poorly engineered particleboard or fiberboard). In that case, they may warp over time if a) the shims are not located under a vertical structural part of the stand - a section that transfers weight to the stands base, or b) you don't get the shims in properly and the stand flexes/torques over time due to uneven pressure - not likely unless you really goof up. I have a stand for my 125 that's actually been beefed up around the bottom with supporting 2"x6" framing. Made it very easy to level as the 2x6's made the bottom the equivalent of a very solid square so I got away using only 6 shim points along the entire 6' tank length (3 front, 3 back). The framing also raised my tank and stand about 6" which gave it more height, something I liked also.
Ok, what about shimming the back?
You do not want the tank too close to the wall. I agree, it looks better, but.... What about replacing a background (mine's a simple piece of black cloth), running electrical cords, filter lines, adding a HOB filter, running an overflow box, a H.O.T. filter, airlines, etc. AND you want to avoid, as mentioned, that carpet strip as well as the base moulding. I recommend finding the largest HOB filter you are ever likely to add, figure how much space you'd need to hang it on your tank and add another 1" for working room and leave the tank out that far from the wall. That allows you to get the shims in (depending on the stand, you can simply reach through the stand to get to the back side bottom) and you'll be able to run/hang equipment easily. The separation from the wall also has the virtue of protecting the wall from splashes and salt/mineral build-ups.
IF you decide to level the floor, it's actually not hard to level a concrete floor. The big-box home improvement stores sell a self-leveling (floor-leveling) compound. Basically, it acts like a very runny high-strength cement. You pour, it levels. You let the compound dry, glue the carpet and padding down if you are lazy like me or replace the tack strips and DONE - level floor. Caution - you'd need to pull up a lot of carpet to allow the compound to feather out/spread over the area to keep the floor under the carpet smooth, so a trowel comes in handy for the edges. My garage floor was 3" out of level from side to side, a huge pain.
Last edited by DKRST; 11-26-2013 at 11:34 PM..