Need quick identification. SAE or flying fox
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Need quick identification. SAE or flying fox

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Need quick identification. SAE or flying fox
Old 12-28-2012, 05:34 PM   #1
 
Need quick identification. SAE or flying fox

I bought two for my tank because I have a lot of BBA. They looked like true SAEs at the store. Black band goes all the way though the tail. They only have 1 pair of whiskers. It's just that it's very hard to tell if this is a gold band above the black one. The black band does look a little zig zagged. Please help, I'd rather not put them in the tank if they are flying foxes.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y15...psa700c7b5.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y15...ps53cc7d04.jpg

Last edited by hywaydave; 12-28-2012 at 05:41 PM..
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Old 12-28-2012, 05:42 PM   #2
 
SAE or Flying Fox?

I bought two for my tank because I have a lot of BBA. They looked like true SAEs at the store. Black band goes all the way though the tail. They only have 1 pair of whiskers. It's just that it's very hard to tell if this is a gold band above the black one. The black band does look a little zig zagged. Please help, I'd rather not put them in the tank if they are flying foxes.


http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y158/jordan_fan/SAE2_zpsa700c7b5.jpg


http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y158/jordan_fan/SAE_zps53cc7d04.jpg
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Old 12-28-2012, 06:25 PM   #3
 
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I would say those are Crossocheilus langei which, as it mentions in the profile, is the actual species usually commonly called the SAE. The False SAE does not have the lateral band extending into the caudal fin. And the Flying Fox has coloured fins. Check our profile for more (click the shaded name).

Byron.

Edit: I came across a duplicate thread so I have merged the two into one. Byron.

Last edited by Byron; 12-28-2012 at 06:38 PM..
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Old 12-28-2012, 07:49 PM   #4
 
Thanks for the quick response Byron. I feel very confident now that they are true SAEs coming from you, so I released them into the tank. Lights are off now so they don't get stressed out but am excited to see them eat away at the BBA this weekend!

I've never been able to combat this bba balancing everything else out and I don't want to overdose my tank all the time with Flourish Excel. Might as well get some fish that enjoy this stuff.
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Old 12-28-2012, 07:51 PM   #5
 
I know I posted twice. I had the fish in the bag getting acclimated to my tank and needed some quick responses. I didn't want to put them in my tank if they were not SAEs. These were hard for me to tell. In the store tank they looked like true SAEs but started doubting myself when I got home.
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Old 12-29-2012, 11:15 AM   #6
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hywaydave View Post
Thanks for the quick response Byron. I feel very confident now that they are true SAEs coming from you, so I released them into the tank. Lights are off now so they don't get stressed out but am excited to see them eat away at the BBA this weekend!

I've never been able to combat this bba balancing everything else out and I don't want to overdose my tank all the time with Flourish Excel. Might as well get some fish that enjoy this stuff.
Brush algae is caused by light, with nutrients obviously present. In planted tanks it is easy to control by simply keeping the light less. If the light is balanced with the available nutrients for the plants, this algae will not have an advantage.

SAE are OK, if youhave the tank space (check the profile). And given what is in Excel, I will never use it.
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Old 12-29-2012, 02:33 PM   #7
 
Thanks Byron but you and I have discussed this before. I only have two T5 bulbs now, I run them 6 hours a day, do 20% water changes per week, and add Excel Comprehensive the day after the water change. Plus I put fertilizer tabs under the gravel near my 3 amazon swords (1 tab each) every 3 months. What am I doing wrong? Is there a test kit I can use to test the amount of micro and macro nutrients available in my tank? Should I stop using tap water and get a RO device? I do occassionally put the recommended dosage of Flourish in my tank when I think about it, maybe once a week. Do you think that fluctuation in carbon could be causing the BBA?
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Old 12-29-2012, 04:09 PM   #8
 
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Originally Posted by hywaydave View Post
Thanks Byron but you and I have discussed this before. I only have two T5 bulbs now, I run them 6 hours a day, do 20% water changes per week, and add Excel Comprehensive the day after the water change. Plus I put fertilizer tabs under the gravel near my 3 amazon swords (1 tab each) every 3 months. What am I doing wrong? Is there a test kit I can use to test the amount of micro and macro nutrients available in my tank? Should I stop using tap water and get a RO device? I do occassionally put the recommended dosage of Flourish in my tank when I think about it, maybe once a week. Do you think that fluctuation in carbon could be causing the BBA?
First, generally speaking, any fluctuation from week to week with respect to plant nutrients (those being added) is going to cause problems for the plants, and algae is always waiting to take advantage of this. So the first thing, is a regular program of adding whatever one adds. Otherwise, you are always going to be basically fighting uphill. And I'm here obviously referring to liquid additives; the substrate tabs once every three months is fine, I do that for my larger swords and the lotus plants. But plants are continually assimilating various nutrients via their roots and leaves, and if these run out the plants have no option but to slow their photosynthesis and in severe cases even shut down. This is why the balance is so important between light and all nutrients.

Now to specifics, if the previous discussion was in this thread
http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/a...-doing-109345/
and the tank and light is the one mentioned therein, I must say that I consider this too much light intensity. Reducing the duration as you have done, and having a good layer of floating plants, is about all you can do. From what you say, this doesn't seem to be sufficient, or the brush algae would not be a problem. But here I should ask, just how much of a problem is it? If it is on the plant leaves, and increases on the plant leaves noticeably, that is a problem as it will suffocate the plants. But if it is just on wood or rock decor, I leave it alone. My wood in my tanks is covered in brush algae, and frankly it looks quite lovely; and the fish are forever browsing through it searching for microscopic live foods and finding them. So use the plants as the indicator.

I don't advise using Excel; Seachem admit they don't know why it sometimes kills brush algae, but if one considers the sole ingredient this is not too surprising. I wouldn't want this in my fish tanks. Flourish Comprehensive is fine, once or twice a week; with your light I would suggest at least twice, and maybe three times, but at regular intervals. I am now dosing Flourish three times weekly, two days apart for each. But I have less light intensity than you have over my larger tanks.

Byron.
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Old 12-29-2012, 07:47 PM   #9
 
Byron,

If you recall, I have a 45 gallon high tank. I believe it is 22" tall. Are you suggesting that I remove one of the bulbs? Right now I have 6700k and a colormax, both T5 standards. Should I remove the colormax? What about the duration, should I decrease it from 7 hours to 6?
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Old 12-29-2012, 08:14 PM   #10
 
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Depends on the fixture.

Is yours High Output or not? Whether or not the tubes are HO or not is irrelevant (they will work in either type fixture, but as you experienced, problems can arise when HOs are used in non-HO fixtures and vise versa). As I've said before it is the ballast within the fixture that ultimately determines light output.

If your fixture is HO, that is what is causing the algae.
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