Need help with new 10 gallon tank, cloudy water, fish dying - Page 2 - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources
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post #11 of 28 Old 05-19-2010, 11:40 AM
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Oliver,

did you see batman's advice on the pH adjusters??? you may not need/want those chemicals in your tank.....

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post #12 of 28 Old 05-19-2010, 03:03 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah I read that but dont really understand since thats what their made for?
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post #13 of 28 Old 05-19-2010, 03:47 PM
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Your fish can adjust to the PH of your tank and the Ph will stay a stable level with every water change if you use the same source of water,if you use the PH aduster you have to keep adding it with each water change until its reaches the level your are happy with,during which the fish have to keep adjusting to the fluctuations in the PH levels while you do this.Also its best not too add chemicals into your tank unless neccesary.
It would be better to save the money from buying that and get yourself a light for the tank and a liquid testing kit that will test the Ammonia,Nitrate & Nitrite levels in yout tank water

Welcome to the forum! good luck with your new tank.

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post #14 of 28 Old 05-20-2010, 12:32 AM
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+1 on what tom said. also, the bubbler isnt great for plants, it wont harm them that much but i would recomend getting the penguin filter and just tossing the bubbler. also before you buy lights please tell us what type of plants you have or plan to get so we can help you make the best choice of lighting.
P.S. dont always listen to the ppl at those places, a lot of times they just have info from a little sheet of paper that they memorized.

Subject: Larry LaPrise dead at 93

With all the sadness and trauma going on in the world at the moment, it is worth reflecting on the death of a very important person, which almost went unnoticed last week.

Larry LaPrise, the man that wrote "The Hokey Pokey" died peacefully at the age of 93. The most traumatic part for his family was getting him into the coffin. They put his left leg in. And then the trouble started.
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post #15 of 28 Old 05-20-2010, 02:20 PM
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Quote:
I bought a pH test kit with adjuster since its in my budget at the moment. From the readings and chart comparison, it looks like the pH is around 7.6 (its a medium-light blue color). I added 2 drops/ gallon and took another reading and it looked the same. So I added another 20 drops and it still looks about the same. Do I keep adding it until it looks greenish like 7.0 or should I wait 24 hours?
This is not advisable and may cause considerable stress and even death to the fish. While these chemicals are intended to lower (or raise, depending) the pH, this does not usually work long-term, as I'll try to explain.

The water pH is determined by several factors, one of which is the carbonate hardness (KH) that works to buffer pH changes. The pH adjuster chemicals may lower the pH when used, but the natural KH of the water will return it to where it was within 12 hours. This constant fluctuating pH is far more stressful on all fish than a stable pH that may be outside their preference. There are natural and safe ways to lower pH if this is actually necessary. Please do not put any more of this stuff in the aquarium.

You could test your source water (tap water presumably) for hardness, both the general (GH) and carbonate (KH) hardness. Fish stores will usually do this, or you might contact your water board. Make sure you get the actual numbers (degrees or ppm), not general indications like "slightly hard" which is almost meaningless for our purposes. Once we know the GH and KH, and the current pH, we can suggest what is likely to occur or how to adjust the pH if that is deemed necessary.

Byron.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #16 of 28 Old 05-20-2010, 08:33 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Byron View Post
This is not advisable and may cause considerable stress and even death to the fish. While these chemicals are intended to lower (or raise, depending) the pH, this does not usually work long-term, as I'll try to explain.

The water pH is determined by several factors, one of which is the carbonate hardness (KH) that works to buffer pH changes. The pH adjuster chemicals may lower the pH when used, but the natural KH of the water will return it to where it was within 12 hours. This constant fluctuating pH is far more stressful on all fish than a stable pH that may be outside their preference. There are natural and safe ways to lower pH if this is actually necessary. Please do not put any more of this stuff in the aquarium.

You could test your source water (tap water presumably) for hardness, both the general (GH) and carbonate (KH) hardness. Fish stores will usually do this, or you might contact your water board. Make sure you get the actual numbers (degrees or ppm), not general indications like "slightly hard" which is almost meaningless for our purposes. Once we know the GH and KH, and the current pH, we can suggest what is likely to occur or how to adjust the pH if that is deemed necessary.

Byron.
Is there a decent test kit that pet supermarket or petco sells that I can purchase? I upgraded to a penguin 100 and although slightly noisy, the cloudiness of the water seems to have vanished. I've also read that drift wood can help lower the pH as well as look great so I'm going to get 2 pieces.
Will keep updated and thanks for the good info!
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post #17 of 28 Old 05-20-2010, 08:51 PM
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I second byron, I found out the hard way, I bought a bottom of API PH down and it will work for a little while... but by the 24 hour mark my PH is back where it started in fact 2 fish that had not been doing so well died I can only assume the ph flux added to their untimely deaths. I got driftwood too, not to lower ph but it did anyways, that lasted about 2 - 3 days now its back to tap level. After this experience I am just going to leave it the way it is until I can invest in the more expensive options... I suggest you just live with what you have and get fish that live in the PH you have. Btw my PH is 8 so 7.6 doesn't seem half bad to me :)
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post #18 of 28 Old 05-21-2010, 04:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oliver82 View Post
Is there a decent test kit that pet supermarket or petco sells that I can purchase? I upgraded to a penguin 100 and although slightly noisy, the cloudiness of the water seems to have vanished. I've also read that drift wood can help lower the pH as well as look great so I'm going to get 2 pieces.
Will keep updated and thanks for the good info!
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In my opinion, and many others you should pick up the API Master Liquid Test Kit.

make sure to buy the liquid test kit, don't buy the strips, they are un-reliable and can put off flase readings

“The space between the tears we cry is the laughter that keeps us coming back for more...."-- Dave Matthews
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post #19 of 28 Old 05-22-2010, 12:36 PM
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I use the API kits, they are recommended by many. The Sera kit is also good, more expensive. B.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #20 of 28 Old 05-29-2010, 01:27 PM Thread Starter
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Okay I got the API master kit and here are the results:
Ph 7.6
Ammonia 0-.25ppm
Nitrite .25 ppm
Nitrate 40-80ppm
the tank has been setup now for about 1 month, I'm concerned with some of the higher readings. Also noticed some light brown algae growing on the glass, some plants and some gravel
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