Need advice on what fish to put together - Page 9 - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources
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post #81 of 93 Old 08-23-2012, 10:32 PM Thread Starter
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I can't seem to get my tank regulated..It reads PH AT 7.6 Ammonia at .50 Nitrite 0 and Nitrate 0.I did a water change this afternoon and use Nutrifin tap water cond.And Nutrifin cycle.Then a guy at the fish store yesterday sold me some Erase-CL(chlorine remover).Not sure what to do???
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post #82 of 93 Old 08-24-2012, 08:23 AM Thread Starter
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Any recommendation on a good heater?

I have a 36 gallon Bowfront and need a good hearter for it.What are your thoughts?
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post #83 of 93 Old 08-24-2012, 09:58 AM
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Killies have different water requirements, i believe, compared to the rasboras and gouramis. That may be why you are discourage from including them.

I like espei (aka lambchop) rasboras quite a lot, but I would resist to temptation to put two schools of anything in there. One decent sized group of one species. Don't get greedy!

Small doesn't always mean docile, and sidthimunki loaches are an example. They need to be in groups (some sources say more than six individuals) but are not the mildest of the loach clan. I honestly have not seen aggression problems with YoYo loaches in all the time I have kept them. I now have only two in a 29, which I believe is really too small a tank to suit this fish for the long haul. They are slow growing but get quite large eventually. . .anyway, choose loaches carefully. Read and research first. All are somewhat distict in habit, sociability, size.

As gouramis mature, all kinds of behavioral difficulties can arise that were not an issue early on. I would be cautious here. I would attempt a single true male-female pair of gouramis in this tank, or only a single male. But you may "get away with" putting the two dwarf gouramis in without incident. Monitor combinations like this and never assume it will last happily ever after!

for what it's worth.



thousands have lived without love; not one without water.


W.H. Auden in "First Things First"

Last edited by sidluckman; 08-24-2012 at 10:02 AM.
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post #84 of 93 Old 08-24-2012, 10:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Bluydgrl View Post
I could only find the new:(
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They are the same anyway, it's just the model numbering system that's changed.

You should start a new thread that details your progress, with pictures if possible. It becomes a great resource for others who are planning to do the same and you can always look back in your thread to see how you've progressed.

If you decide to do a "progress thread" please post a link here.............thanks, Ruskull

Last edited by Ruskull; 08-24-2012 at 10:08 AM.
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post #85 of 93 Old 08-24-2012, 10:19 AM
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Originally Posted by sidluckman View Post
Killies have different water requirements, i believe, compared to the rasboras and gouramis. That may be why you are discourage from including them.

I like espei (aka lambchop) rasboras quite a lot, but I would resist to temptation to put two schools of anything in there. One decent sized group of one species. Don't get greedy!

Small doesn't always mean docile, and sidthimunki loaches are an example. They need to be in groups (some sources say more than six individuals) but are not the mildest of the loach clan. I honestly have not seen aggression problems with YoYo loaches in all the time I have kept them. I now have only two in a 29, which I believe is really too small a tank to suit this fish for the long haul. They are slow growing but get quite large eventually. . .anyway, choose loaches carefully. Read and research first. All are somewhat distict in habit, sociability, size.

As gouramis mature, all kinds of behavioral difficulties can arise that were not an issue early on. I would be cautious here. I would attempt a single true male-female pair of gouramis in this tank, or only a single male. But you may "get away with" putting the two dwarf gouramis in without incident. Monitor combinations like this and never assume it will last happily ever after!

for what it's worth.
Excellent advice right here ^

I think you have the exact same tank as my 36 gallon & I use the Aqueon Pro Series heater, I think I have a 100 watt version. I like these heaters because they show a green light when they're on but not heating, and a red light when they're actually having to heat the water. If I could do it all again I'd buy the Hydor in line heater because it goes in the tubing from your canister filter instead of being yet another thing to try to hide in your tank.
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post #86 of 93 Old 08-24-2012, 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Bluydgrl View Post
I can't seem to get my tank regulated..It reads PH AT 7.6 Ammonia at .50 Nitrite 0 and Nitrate 0.I did a water change this afternoon and use Nutrifin tap water cond.And Nutrifin cycle.Then a guy at the fish store yesterday sold me some Erase-CL(chlorine remover).Not sure what to do???
This thread has so many sidetracks on different issues it is hard to follow this and that. So can you give the current data on this tank, which presumably is now running (assume this is the 36g)? Any fish in it? Any live plants? Water temp?

The Nutrafin water conditioner is fine, you don't need to add the Erase stuff as well, less chemicals the better. Cycle is also fine.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If youíre going to take it under your wing then youíre responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #87 of 93 Old 08-24-2012, 10:23 AM
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This thread has so many sidetracks on different issues it is hard to follow this and that. So can you give the current data on this tank, which presumably is now running (assume this is the 36g)? Any fish in it? Any live plants? Water temp?

The Nutrafin water conditioner is fine, you don't need to add the Erase stuff as well, less chemicals the better. Cycle is also fine.
Might be as well to start a new thread on this issue alone, as someone suggested.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If youíre going to take it under your wing then youíre responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #88 of 93 Old 08-24-2012, 10:24 PM Thread Starter
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Excellent advice right here ^

I think you have the exact same tank as my 36 gallon & I use the Aqueon Pro Series heater, I think I have a 100 watt version. I like these heaters because they show a green light when they're on but not heating, and a red light when they're actually having to heat the water. If I could do it all again I'd buy the Hydor in line heater because it goes in the tubing from your canister filter instead of being yet another thing to try to hide in your tank.
I just looked into that inline heater.Has great reviews.I want to purchase one.Do you think i shouls get the Hydro ETH 200 WATT FOR 12MM &1/2'hose or the 16mm & 5/8 hose..It's still not set up by the way.Just got the canister filter today.Ordered the Glass canopy for it and the mng at the fish store said i should go with the Marinland Reef Capable LED lighting system for a 36-48 wide..What do you think on both?
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post #89 of 93 Old 08-24-2012, 11:08 PM
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Ok great...I will take the sand back and buy the filter tonight online.I will have live plants.My friend has alot she wants to give me.I have never had any live plants.Sand will hold those down?Any special thing I need to do to put them in the tank?
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Sand or gravel really doesn't hold plants or anything else down. Normally people wedge plants into rock or wood crevices, tie them to something heavy with string or a rubberband, or use plant weights (soft non-pure lead weights) wrapped around the stems o keep them down. As for additives some plants require a very low phosphate liquid fertilizer, such as Seachem's comprehensive liquid fertilizer titled flourish, added to the water and some need a substrate fertilizers about 1/2" directly below the plant, such as API's root tabs. I do not suggest using root tabs, as they are too expensive. I have found several sources on line that sell comparable products in much greater mounts for the same price. I suggest using an anti-snail bath to wash them unless you want snails, specifically pond snails which are considered aquarium pests.

55gallon T5 lighting 2 54w bulbs one daylight 10k, one actnic.
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post #90 of 93 Old 08-24-2012, 11:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Bluydgrl View Post
I just looked into that inline heater.Has great reviews.I want to purchase one.Do you think i shouls get the Hydro ETH 200 WATT FOR 12MM &1/2'hose or the 16mm & 5/8 hose..It's still not set up by the way.Just got the canister filter today.Ordered the Glass canopy for it and the mng at the fish store said i should go with the Marinland Reef Capable LED lighting system for a 36-48 wide..What do you think on both?
First I agree with Byron it is time for a "new tank set-up" thread.
Second if could afford a canister filter and an inline heater I would defiantly get one and for the same reason as Ruskull.
Third there is really no need for the canopy. It insulates heat and thereby accelerates evaporation causing the need for more frequent top offs. Unless it is for keeping fish from making a mess from splashing or jumping out of the tank.
Last the light, it should work fine and for hte plants as well but some of the LEDs may blow and you are not able to repair it without soldering a circuit board, and it is roughly twice as expensive as a good t5 flouresent fixture

55gallon T5 lighting 2 54w bulbs one daylight 10k, one actnic.
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