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Issues with Diseases, Stocking, Water and More. - Expert Help Needed.

This is a discussion on Issues with Diseases, Stocking, Water and More. - Expert Help Needed. within the Freshwater and Tropical Fish forums, part of the Freshwater Fish and Aquariums category; --> Would just like to point out that tap water is drinking-water safe. 33ppm nitrate(NO3) is below the maximum allowed levels of 44ppm of nitrate. ...

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Issues with Diseases, Stocking, Water and More. - Expert Help Needed.
Old 06-30-2012, 02:33 PM   #41
 
Would just like to point out that tap water is drinking-water safe. 33ppm nitrate(NO3) is below the maximum allowed levels of 44ppm of nitrate. Above 44ppm nitrate is where you have risks of blue-baby syndrome and such. Most water companies monitor nitrate as nitrate-nitrogen, which is different levels from the regular nitrate test. Nitrate-nitrogen test reports about 4.4 times lower then a regular nitrate test since they are testing slightly different things. Thus max nitrate-nitrogen levels in tap water are often said to be 10ppm, but this is not what a standard nitrate test test for.

I personally would not worry about your tap nitrate plants should control that from rising too much. The hardness is certainly an issue for the rams though.
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Old 06-30-2012, 02:45 PM   #42
 
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Originally Posted by Mikaila31 View Post
Would just like to point out that tap water is drinking-water safe. 33ppm nitrate(NO3) is below the maximum allowed levels of 44ppm of nitrate. Above 44ppm nitrate is where you have risks of blue-baby syndrome and such. Most water companies monitor nitrate as nitrate-nitrogen, which is different levels from the regular nitrate test. Nitrate-nitrogen test reports about 4.4 times lower then a regular nitrate test since they are testing slightly different things. Thus max nitrate-nitrogen levels in tap water are often said to be 10ppm, but this is not what a standard nitrate test test for.

I personally would not worry about your tap nitrate plants should control that from rising too much. The hardness is certainly an issue for the rams though.
Thanks Mika,

Yea I am aware of the legal limit for Nitrate. They go into in both the documents in Colorado State University and the Government website (I will link it later). The lab I got the results from got both the N03-N and N03 amounts and both are under the legal limit. They actually said the exact same thing about the N03 results being 4.4 x more than the N03-N results. The readings that the water company is getting is not what the lab is getting. The Nitrate level is still high and should be addressed, even if it is under the limit.

I have been doing a lot of research on Nitrate as I am coordinating with a local conservation group to address the issue without ... putting a negative spin to it. That way we can get the local administration aware and actually do something about it. The rivers around here are high on algae and have lots of dead spots. This issue goes beyond just us drinking the water and that. Regardless I still think the Nitrate level is higher than I feel safe to drink therefore I have been drinking R.O. water.

Extended exposure to high levels of Nitrate also are linked to a higher chance of getting cancer.

I will post the letter I type with many references so you can see what I have found. I would just rather be safe than sorry you know?
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Old 06-30-2012, 03:33 PM   #43
 
If your water wasn't so hard I would prefer it over my current tap of 0ppm nitrate lol. Nitrate has very low to no risk at the levels you are dealing with. My mom runs a licensed daycare out of their house and the well there is 25ppm nitrate. I often ran tanks at 40+ ppm nitrate when I lived there.

Nitrate pollution is very common through-out the US. Especially if you live in agricultural areas. No tap water is perfect. My current tap has a radium level of 4.5 where max limit is 5 . I am very sketchy on the chances of nitrate posing a significant risk of cancer. Correlation does not prove causation issues. So many things 'can' possible give you cancer supposedly. Too much sun can give you cancer, too little can possibly give you cancer too along with vitamin D deficiencies. As far as drinking RO water I would be careful with that. AFAKI you should not drink straight RO that has not been remineralized as it leeches minerals out of your body.

If you wish to control nitrates IMO increase lighting if possible so you get more plant growth. A number of the plants you got from me are good nitrate sponges. Most fish are very tollerable of nitrate levels up too 100+ppm. I personally had GBR spawn in a tank with 40ppm nitrate. The tank normally had levels lower then that, it wasn't until I neglected water changes for two weeks that they ended up spawning. If they were bothered by those levels they would not of spawned.
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Old 06-30-2012, 05:55 PM   #44
 
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If your water wasn't so hard I would prefer it over my current tap of 0ppm nitrate lol. Nitrate has very low to no risk at the levels you are dealing with. My mom runs a licensed daycare out of their house and the well there is 25ppm nitrate. I often ran tanks at 40+ ppm nitrate when I lived there.

Nitrate pollution is very common through-out the US. Especially if you live in agricultural areas. No tap water is perfect. My current tap has a radium level of 4.5 where max limit is 5 . I am very sketchy on the chances of nitrate posing a significant risk of cancer. Correlation does not prove causation issues. So many things 'can' possible give you cancer supposedly. Too much sun can give you cancer, too little can possibly give you cancer too along with vitamin D deficiencies. As far as drinking RO water I would be careful with that. AFAKI you should not drink straight RO that has not been remineralized as it leeches minerals out of your body.

If you wish to control nitrates IMO increase lighting if possible so you get more plant growth. A number of the plants you got from me are good nitrate sponges. Most fish are very tollerable of nitrate levels up too 100+ppm. I personally had GBR spawn in a tank with 40ppm nitrate. The tank normally had levels lower then that, it wasn't until I neglected water changes for two weeks that they ended up spawning. If they were bothered by those levels they would not of spawned.
Yeah it is hard :/ I totally wish I had soft water.

So what you are saying Mika is that my Nitrate issue is not that bad?

I agree, Correlation does not prove causation, that is why I want to do more research on the topic but I did want to state as it seemed to be a recurring subject in the Nitrate articles I have been reading.

Luckily the water has been re-mineralogical, it is bottled water :D.

Thanks Mika, you make me feel relieved on the Nitrate issue.

Do you know if mixing the remineralized R.O with the tap water will make the water softer for the Rams, Neons and Cories?
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Old 06-30-2012, 06:31 PM   #45
 
Depends on the hardness of the remineralized water. IMO if you want to use RO you are probably better off long term just buying a cheap unit off ebay. I was talking in a chat today with someone who was doing the same. Trying to lower hardness and pH from 8.4 for some dwarf cichlids. They ended up going with a $60-70 5 stage system that did 100 gpd. The membranes on them last quite a while, but it does vary depending on how much crud it is taking out of your water. 1-3 years for the main membrane, 6-12 months on some of the micron filters which cost like $6 each. IDK what you are paying for your RO but around here it is 35cents a gallon if you bring your own container. Long term that can add up pretty quickly on a medium sized tank. Main issue with buying RO water is you don't REALLY know what you are getting if you buy it from a shop. Who knows when they changed what filters on it. If its not properly maintained its hard to say if its really RO or not. Just getting your own unit is better in the long run IMO. I would give you a source of drinking water as well.
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Old 06-30-2012, 08:16 PM   #46
 
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Originally Posted by Mikaila31 View Post
Depends on the hardness of the remineralized water. IMO if you want to use RO you are probably better off long term just buying a cheap unit off ebay. I was talking in a chat today with someone who was doing the same. Trying to lower hardness and pH from 8.4 for some dwarf cichlids. They ended up going with a $60-70 5 stage system that did 100 gpd. The membranes on them last quite a while, but it does vary depending on how much crud it is taking out of your water. 1-3 years for the main membrane, 6-12 months on some of the micron filters which cost like $6 each. IDK what you are paying for your RO but around here it is 35cents a gallon if you bring your own container. Long term that can add up pretty quickly on a medium sized tank. Main issue with buying RO water is you don't REALLY know what you are getting if you buy it from a shop. Who knows when they changed what filters on it. If its not properly maintained its hard to say if its really RO or not. Just getting your own unit is better in the long run IMO. I would give you a source of drinking water as well.

You make great and valid points here. The R.O. water around here is a little more expensive, its $.45 a gallon per gallon and $.74 per two gallons. You can only get up to two gallon buckets. There is other systems but they are more expensive. I'm looking into getting a home system installed right now and seeing how much that costs against one of those bought online.

Would you recommend an R.O. system, the API tap water filter or something like that?

I know AbbeysDad uses the API Tap Water Filter, but I have hard water with high nitrates so it will run that filter a lot harder.

You are right that in the long term buying a filter is better and cheaper. I have realized that the hard way.
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Old 07-01-2012, 02:06 AM   #47
 
Just buy a regular RO filter, nothing fancy and IMO say away form any 'aquarium' specific brands as that marketing just adds to the price tag. RO filters are all pretty standardized. The aquarium ones use the same sized cartridges as the non-aquarium ones typically. This was to one that came up before.
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Old 07-01-2012, 01:04 PM   #48
 
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I can see red inside of their vents. I am not going to do anything just yet because I can't be certain. I am going to keep an eye on all of them and make sure their healthy.

I think another week of quarantine for the 2 Rams in the 20 should be enough until I can move them into the 29?

Then I can move the Kribensis into the 20 and the Gourami back into the 10. The quarantined Ram at that point would either go into the 4 gallon QT bucket OR to the new home Chesh can provide...:(

Thoughts?
My thinking is this:

How long did you have Burt before it became obvious that he had worms? I'd keep them in QT until you're sure, cuz' you don't want to do that again. . . not to the entire tank. Better safe than sorry. . .
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Old 07-01-2012, 01:15 PM   #49
 
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Thank Mika, that is def affordable.

I will have to talk it over with the ladie over here and see what we are going to do about it.

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My thinking is this:

How long did you have Burt before it became obvious that he had worms? I'd keep them in QT until you're sure, cuz' you don't want to do that again. . . not to the entire tank. Better safe than sorry. . .
Yea it took about 3-4 weeks for Burts symptoms to show, which is right where we are at with these guys...we'll see. I got my eye on all of them.
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Old 07-01-2012, 01:23 PM   #50
 
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ahhhh, gotcah! *fingers crossed* I hope they are well, and I know you're keeping a close eye!
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