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HELP! my fish are getting beat up!

This is a discussion on HELP! my fish are getting beat up! within the Freshwater and Tropical Fish forums, part of the Freshwater Fish and Aquariums category; --> I forgot to mention, most stores will only give refunds or pay for fish with store credit, don't expect to actually get money back....

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HELP! my fish are getting beat up!
Old 06-25-2009, 09:37 PM   #21
 
I forgot to mention, most stores will only give refunds or pay for fish with store credit, don't expect to actually get money back.
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Old 07-07-2009, 10:44 PM   #22
 
ok thanks to all the steady advice and constant heckling, i finally got myself a 75 gallon fish tank today!!! I'm so excited! now i have some more questions,

I have my 10 gallon goldfish tank and my 30 gallon tropical tank, all matured and stocked with fish. I put the 10 gallon tank water with the fish in the 75 gallon tank along with 30 gallons of treated water (i did this to cycle my 30 gallon faster and it worked great). how long should it take to cycle the 30 gallons? (keeping in mind that i am also planning on adding the 30 gallons from the 30 gallon tank so i really only have to cycle 30 gallons of water being added to 40 gallons of cycled, matured water.)

what's the cheapest but best type of filter i should get for such a large aquarium? hang over the top or big canister that goes under the tank? i know the canisters are way more expensive and i've been using the hang over's for my other tanks...any preferences?

anything i should be aware of when dealing with a big set up that i didnt have to do with the smaller ones?

thanks so much guys for the push to get the bigger tank...i love it already and it's not even set up yet.
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Old 07-08-2009, 03:22 AM   #23
 
You don't need to move the water at all. The water doesn't cycle or mature, it is the filter that does that. Take the sponges from your current tank and put them in the filter of the 75gal. If they are filter inserts w/ a plastic thing inside rip the plastic thing out and just use the sponge. Fit it in the filter for the 75gal in a way that the water moves through it. If done properly this should instantly cycle the 75gal for what ever fish were in the original tank. EI. you take the 10gal media and the 75gal will handle the bioload of the fish in the 10gal without cycling.

Canister all the way on that tank, you can't get away with HOBs on a tank that big, also get a filter rated for at least 100gal tank. Petsmart SOMETIMES price matches, even online site prices. I would suggest trying it, I haven't done it in a while so not sure if they still do it. They never openly advertise it. Look at what canisters they have, search online for a cheap price on one of the canisters they carry. Print off the webpage and take it in to the store, ask for the pricematch at the register. Normally you can cut their price by about 50%. Let me know if it works!

Last edited by Mikaila31; 07-08-2009 at 03:24 AM..
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Old 07-09-2009, 02:35 PM   #24
 
my old filters didnt have sponges. they were the crappy aqueon filters. i went out yesterday and bought two brand new aqua clear filters, a 110 for the 75 gallon tank, and a 70 for the 45 hex...used the price match idea and it worked. i got both for almost half price! i went with the HOB's also because i dont have hundreds of dollars for canister filters and the guy in the store said it would work as long as i went for the one that would go to a bigger tank.

and i decided to move the water and i'm glad i did because as soon as i started transfering the fish, they all started rising to the top. one of my angels was lying on the bottom of the tank barely moving. but once i put the water from the 30 gallon in the 75, everybody returned to status. tap water has a lot of bad chemicals in it so i know you have to cycle it at least a little bit.
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Old 07-11-2009, 09:25 AM   #25
 
now my fish seem to have ick. i see my royal pleco, clown pleco, farlowella, and blue ram all have the little white dots. i read that if you increase the temp to 82-84 degrees and add salt that it should kill the ick so that's what i did. should i leave the system the way it is for a certain amount of time now or do a water change and add more salt with the new water? i know i'll have to do a water change soon so i'm not sure if i should just leave it or what?
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Old 07-11-2009, 11:10 AM   #26
 
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Originally Posted by LOUIE ACES View Post
now my fish seem to have ick. i see my royal pleco, clown pleco, farlowella, and blue ram all have the little white dots. i read that if you increase the temp to 82-84 degrees and add salt that it should kill the ick so that's what i did. should i leave the system the way it is for a certain amount of time now or do a water change and add more salt with the new water? i know i'll have to do a water change soon so i'm not sure if i should just leave it or what?
The ick outbreak is due to the stress the fish are under from being in a tank that is not cycled. You cannot cycle a tank with old water, as Mikaila31 said. And even if you transfer bacteria via filter media or gravel, it still has to multiply in the new tank to handle the ammonia produced by the fish. When you put the fish in the new tank it created considerable ammonia and the bacteria is insufficient (if there was any at all, again, it does not travel in water but only on solid objects) to handle it. It takes 5-9 days for nitrosomonas bacteria (the one that handles ammonia to nitrite) to establish itself, and then 4-8 days for the nitrospira bacteria (the nitrite to nitrate) to establish. Sometimes this will hapen over 2-3 weeks, sometimes up to 8 weeks, due to all sorts of things.

Stress weakens a fish's immune system and it is very common to see an outbreak of ick as a result of stress. Raising the temp is fine, and many advocate the salt treatment. I would caution use of salt with farlowella and rams as they are very sensitive to salt and chemicals. Copper-based treatments are also risky with these fish. I have used Aquari-Sol with farlowella and no sign of stress (it did show stress with another copper-based remedy, can't remember which one). It's up to you whether you stick with the salt treatment or something else like Aquari-Sol. But on no account should you mix remedies without a substantial water change; they can sometimes interact, plus it is only adding further to the fish's stress.

Partial water changes should occur as usual, but the medication (whether salt or other) has to be replenished because the water change weakens it strength. With ich the treatmnt must be continued for a week (some advocate longer) in order to ensure the parasite is dealt with. It can only be attacked during the free swimming stage, which is during the 72 hours after the cysts that drop off the fish (the white "spots") rupture and release them. Also, some always seem to get through the defense.

I've never used the salt treatment so I'll leave it for those who have to comment on how often it must be renewed, with or without water changes. With Aquari-Sol and similar meds, daily for one week is usual. I have more than once cured ich with five days of Aquari-Sol treatment and not lost any fish.
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Old 07-11-2009, 12:52 PM   #27
 
thanks. should i worry about the ammonia build up being drastic within these next couple of days? or do i have a few days until i should worry about levels spiking? i thought about doing a water change today or tomorrow just in case but like you said, the salt and bateria levels that i have will be deminished even further if i do.
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Old 07-12-2009, 07:42 AM   #28
 
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Originally Posted by LOUIE ACES View Post
thanks. should i worry about the ammonia build up being drastic within these next couple of days? or do i have a few days until i should worry about levels spiking? i thought about doing a water change today or tomorrow just in case but like you said, the salt and bateria levels that i have will be deminished even further if i do.
A partial water change that only removes water and replaces it will not remove bacteria, there is none in the water to speak of. But it would weaken the salt or any meds.

If the tank is going through the normal cycle the ammonia will spike, then the nitrite, over a period of 2 or more weeks. As there are fish in the tank, I would dose the tank with "Cycle" or "Stress Zyme" which are biological preparations completely safe to use, and they assist the formation of the bacteria and relieve stress on the fish. Daily partial water changes will dilute the ammonia or nitrite when your tests show it is high. Use a good water conditioner with all changes, one that also detoxifies ammonia would be best in this scenario.
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Old 07-14-2009, 05:57 PM   #29
 
it looks like the fish are getting ick, then it goes away, then they have it again...i have the temp up at 82 and i added the salt. did i miss something?
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Old 07-15-2009, 09:59 AM   #30
 
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Originally Posted by LOUIE ACES View Post
it looks like the fish are getting ick, then it goes away, then they have it again...i have the temp up at 82 and i added the salt. did i miss something?
Can you describe this better? It is not possible for ich to "go away" and then return in a day or two, it would still be there if it is ich. It may be something else.

If you could be exact as to the spots (one or two, or several; on one fish or more; on the fins or the body or both, small or large...), when they first appeared (date), when they "went away" (all of them?), and when they reappeared (and how many, which fish, etc).
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