Fish tank emergency please help - Page 2 - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources
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post #11 of 47 Old 08-21-2010, 11:54 AM Thread Starter
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I'll re test the water to get the exact numbers (I dont use the strips)

The plants were bought from someone that we selling their tank and the plants had reproduced several times. They looked great when I bought them, and now all look dead.

Yes I use water conditioner.

The fish are acting normal wanting food everytime I walk by. All are active and happy. Their color is great. I'm filling up my old 50 gallon 1/2 way with new water and going to let that sit out for a while and move the fish over until we can figure this out.

Last edited by New2Betas; 08-21-2010 at 11:57 AM.
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post #12 of 47 Old 08-21-2010, 12:16 PM
plants will die of stress,not enough lighting or not enough nutrients.so what lights,fert do you use?? i say let the fish stay in the other tank and let the plants and water stable in the main tank before re homing them a few at a time .

5x2x2 aro,highfin bat,fei feng,ST,albino tinfoil,c.perch
4x1.5x1.5 planted tetras,harlequins,
otto,WMM,2 types of celebes rainbows,rcs,amano, bamboo,red ramhorns,MTS
3.5x2.5x2 flowerhorn,pleco
3x1.5x1.5 russel's lion,blue cleaner,sixline and leopard wrasse,maroon clown pair,green chromis,scorpion,tiger cowrie,turbo,lyretail anthias,jewel,anemone,star polyp,marbled and giant green mushi,zoa
2x1x1 nano sw shrimps
22 May 2012
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post #13 of 47 Old 08-21-2010, 12:19 PM Thread Starter
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I have a standard 25 watt bulb, have c02 hooked up, and was told not to add any fert yet because I dont need to until after a month.
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post #14 of 47 Old 08-21-2010, 12:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by New2Betas View Post
I have a standard 25 watt bulb, have c02 hooked up, and was told not to add any fert yet because I dont need to until after a month.
I don't know where these inaccurate ideas come from, but they still circulate around.

Fertilizer is needed by plants from the day they go in a tank. Plants need food to grow and live, and food = nutrients. In an old established tank a plant may find sufficient but not in a relatively new setup.

I agree with kitten (think it was her) that moving plants from an established tank to a new one can induce shock, due to different water parameters/conditions. I would leave the roots, remove dead leaves to avoid additional water issues, but leave the roots alone and new leaves may well appear.

I would not use CO2, here again without adequate nutrients to balance it will be of no use to the plants. And it means having more intense lighting or again it will not be of value. Read up on this in the series "A Basic Approach to the Natural Planted Aquarium" at the head of the Aquarium Plant section, Part 1 and 2 deal with nutrients, and Part 4 with lighting. I can answer any questions you may have from that.

The CO2 is one reason for the pH lowering. Another is natural biological processes in the tank. And this is likely the problem with the shrimp, they need minerals for their exoskeletons. But please don't mess with pH or hardness at this stage, it will make things worse.

The cloudy water will clear, that is almost certainly the new substrate. Cloudy water is almost never a problem to the fish, so leave them in the tank esp as you say they are looking fine and eating normally. Which only makes me think even more that the cloudiness is due to the substrate. Not a problem.

I recommend Seachem's Flourish Comprehensive Supplement for the Planted Aquarium as the best complete fertilizer. Used once or twice a week (depends upon how the plants respond), it takes very little. Didn't see the tank size here, but assuming this is either your 10g or 20g, less than half a teaspoon of Flourish is one dose.

Byron.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #15 of 47 Old 08-21-2010, 12:38 PM Thread Starter
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Okay, so dont move the fish, move the fish? Shrimp are dropping the flies. The fish look fine to me, but are moving their mouths a lot.

So cut back the plants, leave roots, add more light, turn of co2, and add fert?

What got me, was that the faster was clear for the first 4 days, and now is very cloudy.

I no longer have the 10 and 20 gallon. I have a 46 gallon.
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post #16 of 47 Old 08-21-2010, 12:44 PM
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I just wanted to offer a bit of encouragement. When I first added plants to my tank, I was disheartened by how horrid they looked. They were actually melting and dying. I kept doing water changes, and always added Prime to help clear the Ammonia and Nitrites. I also kept adding the Seachem's Flourish, Comprehensive 2 times a week and left my lights on for 12 hours a day. (this varies for each tank) It took a few weeks but all of a sudden my plants started coming around. Now my tank is looking like a jungle they are so nice and thick. They are bouncing back from another little set back I had with inappropriate fish.

All I can say, is keep up those water changes, remove the dead plant material, keep up the fertilizer and wait. Hopefully you will be telling us about new growth in a few weeks. Good luck to you.

Last edited by Inga; 08-21-2010 at 12:51 PM.
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post #17 of 47 Old 08-21-2010, 01:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by New2Betas View Post
Okay, so dont move the fish, move the fish? Shrimp are dropping the flies. The fish look fine to me, but are moving their mouths a lot.

So cut back the plants, leave roots, add more light, turn of co2, and add fert?

What got me, was that the faster was clear for the first 4 days, and now is very cloudy.

I no longer have the 10 and 20 gallon. I have a 46 gallon.
If the fish are respirating (breathing) faster than normal, I wuld do a partial water change of 50% of the volume, using a good water conditioner. Turn off the CO2, that adds CO2 (obviously) which makes respiration even more difficult when there is already (possibly) something wrong, or it could be the "something" itself. It is certainly assisting in lower your pH.

The aim is to stabilize the tank, then work toward changes if any. Remove dead leaves or cut off dead parts. Leave the good leaves and roots.

On the light, what have you got? It may not need to be increased, yet. The cloudiness could be a bacterial blooom, that is harmless and will dissipate. But more likely it is the new substrate.

What is the pH and hardness of your tap water alone? And when testing pH of tap water, either let the water sit in a glass/jar overnight or shake it very vigorously to dissipate the natural CO2 so you get an accurate reading. In tap water as in the tank, CO2 lowers the pH. Once we know the tap water parameters, we can compare them with the tank.

If you have another small tank where you can move the shrimp, I would. They need harder basic water, and it is easier to move them than to mess with the water parameters which I would certainly not start doing when there are other issues more important--and fish respirating faster is a sign of this.

Byron.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #18 of 47 Old 08-25-2010, 02:49 PM Thread Starter
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Alright. So I did take out all my fish and shrimp and have them in a temp tank. I did a 70% water change, took off all the dead leaves, and vacuumed the gravel. I put on my coralife light on the tank (its for a larger tank but going to use it until I can afford a smaller one). The water is not cloudy and looks good so far. When do you all think I can add my fish back in?
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post #19 of 47 Old 08-25-2010, 04:48 PM
slowly not all at once if you cleaned the filter as well. did you remove the lead sinkers in the plants?? they tend to kill of shrimp.

5x2x2 aro,highfin bat,fei feng,ST,albino tinfoil,c.perch
4x1.5x1.5 planted tetras,harlequins,
otto,WMM,2 types of celebes rainbows,rcs,amano, bamboo,red ramhorns,MTS
3.5x2.5x2 flowerhorn,pleco
3x1.5x1.5 russel's lion,blue cleaner,sixline and leopard wrasse,maroon clown pair,green chromis,scorpion,tiger cowrie,turbo,lyretail anthias,jewel,anemone,star polyp,marbled and giant green mushi,zoa
2x1x1 nano sw shrimps
22 May 2012
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post #20 of 47 Old 08-25-2010, 04:50 PM Thread Starter
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There were no metal clips on the plants. I did not change out the filter media. I just left it as it is.
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