Cycling/ can i add a betta ? - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources
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post #1 of 12 Old 01-13-2009, 04:16 PM Thread Starter
Cycling/ can i add a betta ?

Hi, I'm cycling a small tank for two days now , i used r/o water, r/o right, black water expert and superbac. The param's are ph- 6.2-6.4, alk-0-low, hardness-150=hard, 0-nitrites, 20-ammonia. Whats going on here? I purchased my r/o from a rep. dealer in florida but it's still hard.I'm sure the dosing was correct. Should i consider adding a fish now maybe a betta? Any info on the paramaters? Ijust doesn't sound right to me.
HOLD ON i just rechecked and theres a big difference! ph 6.2, alk0, -, gh-low, no2-0, no3-0
I'm sure of these reading and that i don't have a test for ammonia.These are quickdip strips.

Last edited by catfishtabbi; 01-13-2009 at 04:25 PM.
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post #2 of 12 Old 01-13-2009, 11:43 PM
You may want to consider getting an API Mastertest kit. It's more accurate than the strips.
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post #3 of 12 Old 01-14-2009, 01:43 AM
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your going to want ammonia to reach zero, nitrites to reach zero before adding fish.
what size tank is this? and how are you cycling, pure ammonia?
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post #4 of 12 Old 01-14-2009, 09:09 AM
Onefish, just out of curiosity, can you have a reading of 0 nitrates and nitrites and still hve high ammonia levels in your tank water?
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post #5 of 12 Old 01-14-2009, 03:30 PM
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I guess you could if either the tank has not started to cycle yet, or you have ammonia in your tap water. Maybe even if you over fed you could have ammonia and no nitrites and nitrates. My nitrates stay fairly low, and often get a zerro reading after a water change.

sorry, you asked OneFish, seem I am not able to delete!

Last edited by Twistersmom; 01-14-2009 at 03:35 PM.
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post #6 of 12 Old 01-14-2009, 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by dramaqueen View Post
Onefish, just out of curiosity, can you have a reading of 0 nitrates and nitrites and still hve high ammonia levels in your tank water?
of course, when you first start out, that's all you'll have. It's Ammonia Up, Ammonia Down, Nitrites Up, Nitrites Down, Nitrates Up, Water Change, Nitrates Down.

Edit: A mature tank shouldn't have this.

55 Gallon

-10x Zebra Danio
-3x Angelfish
-5x Velvet Red Swordtail
-3x Albino Cory Cat
-3x Clown Loach
-3x Black Mollie
-1x Red Tailed Shark
-1x General Pleco
-1x Snail

10 Gallon


37 Gallon (Wanted)

Not Sure

150 Gallon (Wanted)

-5x Bala Shark
-2x Neon Blue Goarami
-5x Clown Loach
-1x Black Knife Ghost
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post #7 of 12 Old 01-14-2009, 05:00 PM
It doesn't matter to me who answers my post. lol I was just curious because I want to learn about cycling so I can answer questions better. Thanks, Twistersmom and Sj45 for your answers. :)
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post #8 of 12 Old 01-14-2009, 10:57 PM
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both responses are correct.

fishless cycling starts with adding pure ammonia or fish food to a tank to jump start the cycling process. this will give you your initial ammonia reading. your nitrites and nitrates will be zero for a good week or two possibly longer, everyones tank seems to cycle at a different rate. the nitrites will spike, then drop and nitrates will show up. water changes/gravel vac-ing are the only way to remove nitrates from the plants would complete the cycle however you would need such a heavy heavy heavy planted tank, like a 75 heavily planted with only 6 neon tetras feeding sparingly (i just made that up but you get the idea)

Last edited by onefish2fish; 01-14-2009 at 11:30 PM.
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post #9 of 12 Old 01-14-2009, 10:59 PM
Thank you for the info, Onefish. :)
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post #10 of 12 Old 01-14-2009, 11:38 PM
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no problem, feel free to ask anymore questions that you have. if i know, i will share my knowledge- there are also quite a few good threads on here and the web on cycling fish tanks.
IMO fishless cycling is the way to go. it does not have a chance to harm fish in the process and is actually faster because you dont need to do frequent water changes that disrupt the process. after your tank cycles you can do a water change at the end and then add fish. as for filters, the pad is the breeding ground of benificial bacteria, along with the substrate, plants, and other decorations. hang on back filter pads do not need to be changed until they are falling apart, literally. they do not need to be cleaned until they start overflowing back into the tank (you'll know what i mean when it happens) and when this occurs you simply swish the filter pad in some tank water that you removed from the water change then place it back in the filter. canister filters ill leave for a good month or longer then on a water change ill remove one of the baskets and swish in old tank water to get some debris out, and replace the basket and start it back up.
adding gravel from an existing healthy tank that is already cycled directly to the tank or in a stocking ( do not hang part of the stocking over the tanks side - IT WILL SLOWLY SIPHON YOUR TANK! ) will speed up the cycling process. the reason i said "healthy" is because you do not want to take gravel from a tank that is having issues with disease, you will contaminate your tank.
hope that helps alittle more -OF2F
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