A general guide for shrimp keeping
General Info:
Most of the commonly known Dwarf Shrimp are native to Asia, Japan, and Sri Lanka . Depending on the exact species, they will reach sizes varying from 0.5-2" (15-50mm) and are therefore not harmful to fish as additions in community set-ups, however most larger fish appreciate dwarf shrimp as a snack food.
Water requirements:
The soul importance when keeping shrimp: Any and all species are extremely sensitive to the smallest amounts of copper in the water, added via fertilizers or most medications; minimal amounts of copper can lead to imminent death of your whole stock. Therefore, it's desirable to not use fertilization or medication in shrimp tanks and ensure your water supply does not come from old copper piping .
Keeping shrimp is a great alternative to fish if you are facing a lack of room or budget for large scale tank. Because of their size, a group of 8-10 shrimp (which should be the minimum group requirement in any set up) can easily be housed in a tank that's at least 3g (12 liters) or larger for bigger groups.
Most shrimp require a pH around 6.5-7.5 with a dGH that does not exceed 8 in most cases. Softer more acidic water is better tolerated by most species than the harder water. Exact ranges for each species can be found in their profiles.
Temperature ideally ranges from 73-77F (23-25C). Exact ranges for each species can be found in their profiles; however it should be noted that cooler ranges are better then the upper ranges for coloration, breeding behavior and long term health. In some cases, long term high temperatures can stop breeding completely.
It is to be noted that shrimp are extremely intolerant to new tanks; they do not tolerate any nitrate, nitrite or ammonia in even the smallest amounts. Therefore, it is highly advisable to not add shrimp to any new set-up, but only established tanks (several month old.) In a soul- shrimp set-up, a good amount of decayed matter from fish, plants and food on the bottom is desirable, as the shrimp will feed off of that. Over the years in my own set-ups, it has proven best to have tanks with a decent amount of decayed matter (mulm) settled on the bottom that never get's vacuumed out; especially for newly hatched shrimp, this is food heaven.
Habitat:
The tank set up itself should contain either fine gravel that has no sharp edges (2-3mm) or ideally sand. All shrimp will search the ground for food naturally, therefore sand set-ups are ideal and its also nicer for the viewer on the other side of the tank to watch them sift thought sand than not be able to do this at all with gravel set-ups.
Driftwood should also be available for a shrimp tank set-up as well as fine plants. Most commonly used is Java moss, but any smaller plant that does not outgrow your tank quickly will be fine. While shrimp, contrary to popular belief, will not eat your plants, you will see them grazing over the plants and feed off of algae that is usually not even visible to the human eye. Therefore, plants are a must-have in a shrimp set-up. If kept in a community fish tank, small caves should be offered (e.g. half coconuts with small holes drilled on the side).
For Filtration a simple sponge filter is advised. If you would like to house them in a community tank set up and have a HOB, canister, or internal filtration system, covering the intake with a piece of sponge is a must, otherwise you will watch your shrimp vanish as they get pulled in to the intake.
The tank itself has to be covered with no chance of escape to offer, as they will climb anything and everything offered within the set-up - even cables for heaters or filters. Be sure to secure your tank wisely before you find your shrimp on the wrong side of the tank!
It is also an option to set up a larger (e.g. 10g) shrimp tank in which you house various species of shrimp. It is not something desired in the hobby to have shrimp cross breed and create hybrids, therefore it is essential before you select the shrimp for your stock that you check the Shrimp Compatibility Chart here http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/freshwater-shrimp/shrimp-compatibility-chart-37011/
Community tank:
Dwarf Shrimp can be housed in mostly all community tanks as they will pose no threat to your fish or fry in most cases (exception being Ghost Shrimp as they will snack on fish fry if they get the chance).
However most larger fish that naturally would feed off of shrimp will pose a threat to your shrimp, thus, it's advisable to evaluate the overall set-up and stock carefully and to always offer the shrimp in community tanks hiding places such as fine plants and caves.
With natural predators around them, most shrimp will be very shy in a community set up and more often than not, you will not see them. They reveal their outgoing and active behavior at its best if housed in a small species tank.
General Info:
Most of the commonly known Dwarf Shrimp are native to Asia, Japan, and Sri Lanka . Depending on the exact species, they will reach sizes varying from 0.5-2" (15-50mm) and are therefore not harmful to fish as additions in community set-ups, however most larger fish appreciate dwarf shrimp as a snack food.
Water requirements:
The soul importance when keeping shrimp: Any and all species are extremely sensitive to the smallest amounts of copper in the water, added via fertilizers or most medications; minimal amounts of copper can lead to imminent death of your whole stock. Therefore, it's desirable to not use fertilization or medication in shrimp tanks and ensure your water supply does not come from old copper piping .
Keeping shrimp is a great alternative to fish if you are facing a lack of room or budget for large scale tank. Because of their size, a group of 8-10 shrimp (which should be the minimum group requirement in any set up) can easily be housed in a tank that's at least 3g (12 liters) or larger for bigger groups.
Most shrimp require a pH around 6.5-7.5 with a dGH that does not exceed 8 in most cases. Softer more acidic water is better tolerated by most species than the harder water. Exact ranges for each species can be found in their profiles.
Temperature ideally ranges from 73-77F (23-25C). Exact ranges for each species can be found in their profiles; however it should be noted that cooler ranges are better then the upper ranges for coloration, breeding behavior and long term health. In some cases, long term high temperatures can stop breeding completely.
It is to be noted that shrimp are extremely intolerant to new tanks; they do not tolerate any nitrate, nitrite or ammonia in even the smallest amounts. Therefore, it is highly advisable to not add shrimp to any new set-up, but only established tanks (several month old.) In a soul- shrimp set-up, a good amount of decayed matter from fish, plants and food on the bottom is desirable, as the shrimp will feed off of that. Over the years in my own set-ups, it has proven best to have tanks with a decent amount of decayed matter (mulm) settled on the bottom that never get's vacuumed out; especially for newly hatched shrimp, this is food heaven.
Habitat:
The tank set up itself should contain either fine gravel that has no sharp edges (2-3mm) or ideally sand. All shrimp will search the ground for food naturally, therefore sand set-ups are ideal and its also nicer for the viewer on the other side of the tank to watch them sift thought sand than not be able to do this at all with gravel set-ups.
Driftwood should also be available for a shrimp tank set-up as well as fine plants. Most commonly used is Java moss, but any smaller plant that does not outgrow your tank quickly will be fine. While shrimp, contrary to popular belief, will not eat your plants, you will see them grazing over the plants and feed off of algae that is usually not even visible to the human eye. Therefore, plants are a must-have in a shrimp set-up. If kept in a community fish tank, small caves should be offered (e.g. half coconuts with small holes drilled on the side).
For Filtration a simple sponge filter is advised. If you would like to house them in a community tank set up and have a HOB, canister, or internal filtration system, covering the intake with a piece of sponge is a must, otherwise you will watch your shrimp vanish as they get pulled in to the intake.
The tank itself has to be covered with no chance of escape to offer, as they will climb anything and everything offered within the set-up - even cables for heaters or filters. Be sure to secure your tank wisely before you find your shrimp on the wrong side of the tank!
It is also an option to set up a larger (e.g. 10g) shrimp tank in which you house various species of shrimp. It is not something desired in the hobby to have shrimp cross breed and create hybrids, therefore it is essential before you select the shrimp for your stock that you check the Shrimp Compatibility Chart here http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/freshwater-shrimp/shrimp-compatibility-chart-37011/
Community tank:
Dwarf Shrimp can be housed in mostly all community tanks as they will pose no threat to your fish or fry in most cases (exception being Ghost Shrimp as they will snack on fish fry if they get the chance).
However most larger fish that naturally would feed off of shrimp will pose a threat to your shrimp, thus, it's advisable to evaluate the overall set-up and stock carefully and to always offer the shrimp in community tanks hiding places such as fine plants and caves.
With natural predators around them, most shrimp will be very shy in a community set up and more often than not, you will not see them. They reveal their outgoing and active behavior at its best if housed in a small species tank.