If patience is the challenge… well, challenge accepted! - Page 9
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If patience is the challenge… well, challenge accepted!

This is a discussion on If patience is the challenge… well, challenge accepted! within the Freshwater Journals forums, part of the Aquarium Photography category; --> Thank you for following and for your input at least I know that my English have improved :) For the record the fresh water ...

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If patience is the challenge… well, challenge accepted!
Old 01-18-2014, 09:44 AM   #81
 
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Thank you for following and for your input at least I know that my English have improved :) For the record the fresh water master test kit was bought on eBay my LFS is really poor on those kind of supplies sometimes even prime is out I have to go with half bottle left in case they don't have any I'm adding the prime cause I'm really afraid of losing my fish I don't have a provisional set up for the ones that still in there otherwise I would get them out and start all over again I didn't know that prime "side effect" would affect ph and actually now that you mentioned it's been going down it wasn't like that at the beginning on the other hand I do my water testing before lighting goes off and those are my results
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Old 01-18-2014, 10:48 AM   #82
 
as I remember the api master test kit does not include the kh/gh test kits.

sometimes when people recommend 'standard and accepted' prcedures the side effects are blamed on something else. Just the way things are.

my .02
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Old 01-18-2014, 03:55 PM   #83
 
standard & accepted practices are good at standardizing things

no one will have any exceptional results
any issues that do arise will fall between standard and accepted issues on the problem
resolving any problems then involve standardized procedures to correct the issue

then there are those who do things a little (or a lot) differently.

i'm not entirely in agreement with beaslebob's promotion of things, but that's a personal issue, no basis on facts of any kind, ... regardless, beaslebob still has an amazingly simple way of doing things that goes against the standard & accepted ways of doing things, and getting plenty of success

i'm following the same route in some regards, ... and others i seem to be moving even closer too.

there is good and bad with standards
good, problems are easy to identify & easy to fix

the bad, if anything else is going on other than 'typical' then no one knows what is going on, no one knows much, nor has anyone ever bothered to consider "what if?" learning & understanding stops and so do improvements.

beaslebob is right, water changes can be detrimental.
an established tank, if left alone, can develop the exact right conditions to be near maintenance free, a hardness in the water to resist sudden changes, a stable and strong bacterial culture to keep maintaining things.

water changes reduce these buffers
now not to go gung-ho and refuse water changes, but know what your doing,

now that's what this thread has been about, to learn what is going on, what to expect, what to look for.

tests, test kits, testing, ... they'll tell you what's going on, but not what to do about it.

they'll let you know if things are higher or lower than what you want (for whatever reason, whatever you may want), ... but what to do about it, ... well you can't do anything about it, ... once the tank is set, the tank tries to keep everything at that level, it will fight you (and often win)

the only thing you can do is fight with a bigger weapon, ... and then you've gotta worry "how is this going to affect the chemistry of the tank"

test kits will only tell you what is going on, it will not tell you what to do, and what you do will in turn affect the tank in other ways very likely.

i've got a pH test kit
i've got pH 7.0 buffer
i've got an ammonia test kit (i could throw this out - if not for a remineralizing plant clippings from the tank - worried about as the plants break down a rise in ammonia, so far that's never happened)

a tank will try to stableize itself.
now if it stableizes the way you want, or the way it wants, well the tank wins, or you have to do a lot of maintenance that might cause more stress on the inhabitants in your tank than you wish, ... and once your your back to "leave the tank to maintain itself"

learn,

doing things the standard way, it's good to start, but don't stay there or when there's problems everything will fall apart and you'll be scratching your head wondering what happened., and no one will have any answers for you.
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Old 01-18-2014, 04:55 PM   #84
 
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I'd like to ask again that you refrain from derailing/over complicating this thread any more than it has to be.
The OP is in the midst of a tricky situation, adding to the confusion is not helping him or his fish.

There are many opinions and thoughts on what the "right" way to keep fish is. Feel free to start a thread for discussion on this subject, or any other that is NOT directly answering a question from Carlos in the appropriate area of the forum, or on this thread in our advanced discussions area.

Thanks for understanding - and to everyone for helping Carlos in dealing with his dilemma!




Carlos,

. . . I'm very interested to learn the results you get from the tests. I've never understood why these are not a part of API's Master kit - they provide very important information! I'm glad that you were willing to check into these - I'm hoping that things will become much clearer once we have a better idea of the water hardness. Please keep us posted!
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Old 01-18-2014, 05:04 PM   #85
 
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Neutra fin sell a test kit which i think has every test you need,it's expensive
to buy..it looks kinda like a brief case .
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Old 01-18-2014, 06:48 PM   #86
 
Nutrafin (Hagen) test kit including ammonia, pH, calcium, phosphate, iron, nitrite, nitrate, KH and GH which is much more complete that the API, but at a C note I done known. I guess I'm spoiled, being a chemist, testing equipment or analytical test aren't something I normally buy.
Carlos your doing great.
We will fix it guaranteed.

R
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Old 01-18-2014, 07:13 PM   #87
 
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Thanks Rickey

Beaslbob and flear I appreciate you're trying to help as I appreciate everyone's input as flear said it could be a battle but standards are always good I had a tank just like yours self maintained cristal clear water I know it's possible but this seems not to be that case I've had better luck with everything below 10 gallons they were kept on the standards except for the 10 gallons that was the selfish I used to do water changes on that once a month I think it was a perfect ecosystem in there but that was just luck I didn't have a lot of knowledge on tanks or planted tanks I was just guessing to be honest " if nature has water circulation and a lot of plants that's what I need" it worked somehow :)

Back to test kit it's here now it seems to be confusing when I test the Kh It's saying that will go from blue to yellow first of all drops are orange and never turns blue ( and with all those colors nothing seems to make sense anymore ) as I'm adding it just turns yellow I stopped at 8 drops it was bright yellow but never got blue before am I doing something wrong?
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Old 01-18-2014, 07:38 PM   #88
 
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Ok according to this gh is at 179 ppm and kh 8 143.2ppm

Ammonia .50
Nitrite. 25
Nitrate 5.0
Ph 6.0
I did water change yesterday
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Old 01-18-2014, 07:57 PM   #89
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by carlos puron View Post
Back to test kit it's here now it seems to be confusing when I test the Kh It's saying that will go from blue to yellow first of all drops are orange and never turns blue ( and with all those colors nothing seems to make sense anymore ) as I'm adding it just turns yellow I stopped at 8 drops it was bright yellow but never got blue before am I doing something wrong?
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If the Test goes straight to yellow on the first drop there is less that 18 ppm carbonate you, (If there was any carbonate present the sample it should have gone blue on the first drop and stayed blue till all the carbonate is use up) need at least 100 ppm carbonate/bicarbonate to maintain a stable pH. Did you run a GH test? if so post those numbers as well. I would also like you to run a pH, kH and GH test on you tap water as a baseline and post those numbers as well. We know that there is very near 0 ppm Carbonate hardness in the aquarium, Once we have the test results on tap and aquarium water we can develop a plan of attack. I suspect you will find a low kH and a relatively high pH, GH on your tap water.

Rick
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Old 01-18-2014, 08:42 PM   #90
 
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Ok I'll do it right now I just saw the post sorry I was playing guitar didn't hear the email come in o post the general test on my aquarium I'm going for the tap water
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