Any suggestions for plants? - Page 3 - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources

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post #21 of 66 Old 05-17-2011, 09:33 PM
you can get blue rams, schooling and maybe something else, depends on what. same for angels

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post #22 of 66 Old 05-17-2011, 11:50 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, new plant question then. I was looking at possibly doing the schooling fish, a couple dwarf gourami and an angelfish. Would that work, and if so it says I should have floating plants for part of the top of the tank. What's a good floating plant? Or maybe I should just get some gourami and forget the angel...?
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post #23 of 66 Old 05-25-2011, 07:19 PM
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I do not recommend single angels, they should be in a group as was mentioned. Angels are fairly social fish, they live together in small groups naturally, and they develop a natural social structure within the group. But you must get all at the same time, or there is the liklihood that the fish first acquired will own the tank and newcomers can be hounded to the point of death. A group of 4-6 is good, but in a 4-foot tank minimum. You can read more in our profile, click on the shaded name Pterophyllum scalare.

I also don't recommend gourami with angels. The territoriality of the males is too similar in the species. They are so much alike in several ways.

I posted this video yesterday to illustrate angels in their native habitat, but it is relevant to the group issue so here it is again.


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Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #24 of 66 Old 05-25-2011, 09:31 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah, I'm at a loss for which fish to get still. I have to wait anyways I think because my tank is unsta
ble again, and this time it's the ph. My fish and frogs seem ok.. my fish were all hanging out at the top of the tank, hardly swimming, but I turned off the nibbler and they all seem fine now.

I'm guessing I made a mistake of switching to a sand substrates, and that's why the ph dropped. It was steady between 6.4-6.6 but now it looks yellow and more like 6.0. I'm scared to mess with anything now. :( I've got the old filter and new(ish ) filters running and some gravel in netting hanging by the filter in hopes of avoiding a cycle. The tanks been up a bit over 48 hours with fish/frogs in there for about 24 hours. My ammonia levels look lower than .25 ppm and nitrite is at zero.

Is there anything I can do? I specifically got pool filter sand because people said it's designed NOT to mess with ph.
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post #25 of 66 Old 05-25-2011, 09:59 PM Thread Starter
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My rasbora were sortof doing a dry run "spawning" sortof thing before the substrate change, and watching them, they look like they're starting to do the same thing, so I'm assuming they're not dying.... there are two swimming together, fluttering their fins at each other. The frogs seem a lot happier now too, and they're no longer hiding all the time. Plants are firm in the substrates and look happy, but it's only been two days.
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post #26 of 66 Old 05-26-2011, 10:28 AM
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I missed your previous question on floating plants, sorry. Yes, all fish like a "roof" over them, and floating plants are ideal. You can easily keep them thinned (at the weekly water change) so some light gets through to lower plants. Floating plants grow quite fast.

On the pH. What is the pH of your tap water? And what is the hardness? You can find the latter out from your water supply people, many now have websites with water data posted. This is crucial to know, as the hardness can buffer pH.

Byron.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #27 of 66 Old 05-26-2011, 04:21 PM Thread Starter
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You had told me in another thread while I was cycling my tank that the water was moderately soft. (http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/f...73/newmessage/)
Except I'm not 100% sure that the link I had provides to you is actually my water source, but I couldn't find anything from the other possible source. I do know that at all the local pet and fish stores, they've all said my area has pretty good water for an aquarium which wouldn't require much maintenance, just the water conditioner.

Previously, my tap water was somewhat on the acidic side, but I tested my water today with the api test kit and my tap water is at 7.4 (or at least it's blue with the regular ph test and the brownish color on the high range kit..) and the aquarium is still at the lowest possible on the test kit: 6.0.

It must be the stupid sand that's messing with things. I have some extra so I guess I will rinse that and put it in with some tap water and see what happens with that.
The fish still seem normal, all other parameters are steady. The aommonias not at zero, but only at .25ppm, nitrite is still at zero. The water was conditioned with prime.
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post #28 of 66 Old 05-26-2011, 05:01 PM
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I read that linked thread and the report to refresh my memory. If those numbers are correct, the KH is quite low, comparable or very slightly above my tap water. The sand should have nothing to do with this, or if anything, might actually raise the hardness and pH if it was calcareous. Doesn't seem to be, so what's happening is in my opinion perfectly natural. My tanks have substrates of playsand, regular gravel, and one has Flourite, and these tanks have a regular steady pH of 5 and 6. I leave them alone. My tap water comes out at 7-7.2, they add something to raise the pH, ash I think, but it has no effect on hardness. The biological system in an aquarium, once established, will work to maintain stability.

If your considering soft water fish, this is not going to be a problem. Hard water fish (livebearers, some others) would be obviously.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #29 of 66 Old 05-26-2011, 09:27 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, that's a relief. Is there a different test I should get so I can still monitor the ph at that low of a level? And is there something I should do if it goes much further below that?

And does this mean I should be acclimating fish for a longer time frame when I bring them home?
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post #30 of 66 Old 05-27-2011, 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by jennesque View Post
Ok, that's a relief. Is there a different test I should get so I can still monitor the ph at that low of a level? And is there something I should do if it goes much further below that?

And does this mean I should be acclimating fish for a longer time frame when I bring them home?
I have the Tetra low-pH test, it goes down to 5, I use this now and then on some tanks. As it usually reads the lowest (5), I'vbe no idea how much lower it might actually be. I have not come across one that goes below 5. I don't bother about it, because I have almost all wild-caught fish from soft acidic water. Some of my tanks drop like this, some stay around 6.2, so certain fish might be in the one but not the other according to their source and preferences. This would be an issue is if the fish are tank raised in harder water, some acclimation would be needed.

As for fish from the store, find out their pH and hardness. Presumably local stores will have your type of water, but some stores do harden their water closer to neutral pH and medium hardness because they have differing fish and keeping their water near-neutral is more economical for them. Some may have different systems to accommodate different fishes, that's the sign of a good store. Anyway, find out what they keep the fish in, and then acclimate accordingly. Some species are more sensitive to this than others. It also helps to know the source of the fish, thinking here of wild caught or tank raised, as well as the store conditions.

Byron.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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