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75 Gallon Amazon and 29 Gallon Community

This is a discussion on 75 Gallon Amazon and 29 Gallon Community within the Freshwater Journals forums, part of the Aquarium Photography category; --> Originally Posted by Chesherca lol, German... right! Forgot the biotope on that one. Well, still time to research and figure it out :) It'll ...

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75 Gallon Amazon and 29 Gallon Community
Old 12-05-2012, 07:21 AM   #91
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chesherca View Post
lol, German... right! Forgot the biotope on that one. Well, still time to research and figure it out :) It'll be fantastic when it's done.

As far as the NEW giant tank is concerned. . . I just want to know where on Earth you're gonna PUT it!!! Personally, having gone from 1 tank all of the way up to 7. . . I've been trying to get BACK down to 1 since I started, only starting wrong has left me with incompatible species and thus - too many tanks! For ME, one big tank filled with my very most favorite fish and set up to my tastes is all I want. I like to focus my time and care, rather than being so divided and constantly falling behind on maintenance due to lack of time. But. . . that's ME! LOADS of people have many large tanks, and love it. YOU are a fishy hoarder ;) We need to get you on that show. . . I don't see you passing it up, and I'm sure you'll take great care of them when you get them!

Too much light, yeah - JavaFerns are low-light plants, so it IS possible. *some* swords like lower lighting, but the one you have (I think) is in the moderate to bright range, and so should be thriving with the higher lighting. Plus, you've had the same lighting since before you moved, right? So it doesn't *seem* that lighting would be the issue here.

Two things I can think of that *might* have something to do with it - and again, I'm not a pro, but maybe you can look further into these and see if they seem right. . .

1. You have been dosing more ferts since the move, and (as far as I know) running the same lighting. Everything with plants is about finding the right balance. It is possible for a plant to start to fail if the ferts are OVER done, too. Too many nutrients without the correct amount of either Co2 or lighting will give you an odd imbalance in which the plant is working overtime to process and store all of the 'food,' but since one or both of the other factors are limited, it can end up with an overabundance, and this will cause the plant to fail. I *think* that the main culprit with overdosing ferts has to do with too much iron for the plant to process it, but I'm not sure what it looks like when this happens, though - or if it's what is going on here. The other possibility to look into with the ferts is where they overlap. If you give a plant too much of any one specific nutrient, it throws the whole system off balance, so maybe look into where the overlap is between the ferts you're giving. Perhaps it's getting too much of something specifically?

2. The other thing that I'm wondering, again, is about your water. I know it's soft now, but do you have the number on exactly how soft it is? Many of of the trace elements that plants need are supplied by the water, and ferts like Flourish are balanced with the idea in mind that most people are using them in tanks that have harder water (no idea about excel). Hard water = more minerals/trace elements, so these are not included in the otherwise well-balanced Flourish. If your GH is too low, then the plants could be suffering from a lack of calcium, or possibly other elements. If Gh is lower than 5 or 6 dGH, there may not be enough calcium in the water for the plants to form their cell structure correctly, and I *think* they try to correct this by taking in too much iron. Either way, it's not okay. You can fix it by using products like Equilbrium to slowly raise the GH up and add in calcium and magnesium.

But - Termie, you know I have no idea what I'm talking about, I just read too much - I've never had these problems before. THIS LOOKS LIKE A CASE FOR. . . SUPER BYRON!!!! I'm sure he'd know EXACTLY what to do!
Chesh, the lights I have on the tanks right now are not the lights I had on the tank when I was living in Salisbury. These are new lights. The only tank that maintained the old lights is the 29 Gallon. Those plants have kind of halted and are not growing anymore.

As for the 75 Gallon the lights on there are brand new. These lights actually allowed the swords to spawn new plants as you saw in the flourishing picture of the tank. I really don't think it is the high light for the sword, although that may be the issue for the Java Fern. I am beginning to lean more towards the algae at this point because the minerals are fine and I have been doing regular water changes as of the past 2 weeks. I'm FINALLY getting back into a rhythm!

Well the thing about the water is that the plants were flourishing as of about a month ago and now they have halted. After I removed the floating plants the algae came in. I REALLY think it is the algae because of this. I removed the canopy because I wanted the plants to get more lights but I also didn't up the fertz when I did that. This is why I think I got algae. I am considering letting the canopy regrow, which it already is, and then getting rid of the algae. Once the algae is cleared I am hoping this will solve my problems.

I'm quite sure I have the SAME water you have. Literally. I think my dGH is at about 8 last I checked...

I cannot raise the dGH, I'm getting discus! I need to maintain the water parameters I have right now and keep the tank clean for them. I just upped my fertilizer dosage to every other day and the excel to 3x a week. I'm hoping this will solve many of the issues I am dealing with. I'm also considering putting more root tabs in the sand.

What do you think?


Quote:
Originally Posted by thekoimaiden View Post
I've actually done some looking into a discus biotope tank (for the future!). Rummynose tetra (Hemigrammus bleheri) would work as would cardinal tetra (in around the 82F range). I've seen a lot of discus tanks with schools of those two species and I'd like to add them to my future discus tank. As far as the German Blue Ram... they aren't actually from Germany; but they aren't Amazon fish either. They come from the Orinoco River, north of the Amazon basin. But if you're just going for generic south american fishes, they would work.
Well that is wonderful news. I'm going to be getting some Rummynoses with the 90 Gallon tank when I get that so it will be perfect to put in there with the Discus.

I thought Cardinals weren't supposed to be stocked with Discus? Or any of those longer shaped fish like the rummynose? <---I heard this somewhere, forgot where. but I am not too sure of how accurate it is.

I am trying to stick mainly to Amazon fish because I am from Brazil and I kind of already have a Amazon Biotope going.
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Old 12-05-2012, 07:50 AM   #92
 
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You're right, our water probably does come from the same source :) The GH wouldn't be the problem then, those issues are for GH under 5. I agree, it does sound like the problem could be that the algae is hogging the nutrients before the plants can get to it.

Glad you've found a new rhythm on the maintenance! Should only be a matter of time before you've got the Green Devil back in check! Just out of curiosity, what lights ARE you running on that tank now? I seriously need to upgrade my lighting, trying to find an option that won't cost too much is difficult!

I've been meaning to ask you about your root tabs. . . if I recall, you switched from the Seachem brand to the Root Medic capsules? I was curious as to why? Comparing the two, the nutrients are very similar - some things have a bit more or less depending on the brand. I know the RM tabs last longer (I think it was 6 months as opposed to 3?) Just curious as to what you felt made them so much better? I know you've done a lot of research into this. . .Your tanks are so much different from mine - higher light and more ferts, so I don't know if increasing the root tabs is something that would help or harm.

I think I'd try to get the algae under control before giving it more 'food' I usually use one root tab 'shared' between 2 root feeders, but I don't know if you would need more? You'll figure it out. I suspect that just keeping back on a consistent schedule and allowing the canopy to regrow will help out tons! Good luck!!!
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Old 12-05-2012, 08:37 AM   #93
 
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Originally Posted by Chesherca View Post
You're right, our water probably does come from the same source :) The GH wouldn't be the problem then, those issues are for GH under 5. I agree, it does sound like the problem could be that the algae is hogging the nutrients before the plants can get to it.

Glad you've found a new rhythm on the maintenance! Should only be a matter of time before you've got the Green Devil back in check! Just out of curiosity, what lights ARE you running on that tank now? I seriously need to upgrade my lighting, trying to find an option that won't cost too much is difficult!

I've been meaning to ask you about your root tabs. . . if I recall, you switched from the Seachem brand to the Root Medic capsules? I was curious as to why? Comparing the two, the nutrients are very similar - some things have a bit more or less depending on the brand. I know the RM tabs last longer (I think it was 6 months as opposed to 3?) Just curious as to what you felt made them so much better? I know you've done a lot of research into this. . .Your tanks are so much different from mine - higher light and more ferts, so I don't know if increasing the root tabs is something that would help or harm.

I think I'd try to get the algae under control before giving it more 'food' I usually use one root tab 'shared' between 2 root feeders, but I don't know if you would need more? You'll figure it out. I suspect that just keeping back on a consistent schedule and allowing the canopy to regrow will help out tons! Good luck!!!
Yeah I am glad too! I actually moved the ottos into the 29 last night because I felt they weren't eating in the 10 gallon and there is some algae in the 29. They are already doing better. I lost two ottos :( but it's ok, I kind of expect that to happen...sadly enough.

Right now I am running a 48" T5 HO Hood with 2 46" T5 HO Bulbs that run at 56W and 6500K. I also have a 20W 6500K bulb in the back over the moss. Total wattage output is about 124W on the 75 Gallon.

The 29 has 2 23W CFLs at 6500K for a total of 46W on the 29 Gallon.

I do still use Seachems Liquid fertz, although as soon as I finish this bottle I'm switching to RootMedic because of the following reason (I created this chart with another aquarist when we were doing research)

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...VTXFUR2c#gid=0

Hope you like it! I'm hoping to finish that table soon so it will show all major brands and all their products.

If you compare the RootMedic products to the other ones, they have more of certain minerals for the type of product. They also have good deals on PlantedTank.net so it ends up being like half the price there.

Yea I do agree with you that changing the root tabs wont solve anything and that the algae will need to be dealt with before any other variables are considered.
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Old 12-05-2012, 11:53 AM   #94
 
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I have your spreadsheet bookmarked from before, I love it! It'll be great to see it completed. I might have to get some of their tabs next time I need to replace them. Do they actually last for 6 full months? That'd be nice :)
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Old 12-05-2012, 01:19 PM   #95
 
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Originally Posted by Chesherca View Post
I have your spreadsheet bookmarked from before, I love it! It'll be great to see it completed. I might have to get some of their tabs next time I need to replace them. Do they actually last for 6 full months? That'd be nice :)
YAY! hahaha glad its being used. I really want to finish it because we only got about half the products on there (although we put the best products up lol).

Yeah I dunno about 6 months lol. I've had mine in there for about 4 months and I replaced mine about 2 weeks ago. Then again....I have been having algae issues so that could have something to do with why that happened.
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Old 12-05-2012, 02:38 PM   #96
 
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:) Yeah, I do like it! It's nice to be able to see how all of the ferts compare to each-other at a glance, and without actually having them in front of you. Of course. . .I don't *really* understand what it all means, anyway, lol! But either way, can't wait to see it finished! Hmmmm, wonder if those older tabs are still under the sand in there - and if it would matter. I don't see how that would be your problem, though, since the Java doesn't use them :)
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Old 12-05-2012, 10:33 PM   #97
 
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Originally Posted by Chesherca View Post
:) Yeah, I do like it! It's nice to be able to see how all of the ferts compare to each-other at a glance, and without actually having them in front of you. Of course. . .I don't *really* understand what it all means, anyway, lol! But either way, can't wait to see it finished! Hmmmm, wonder if those older tabs are still under the sand in there - and if it would matter. I don't see how that would be your problem, though, since the Java doesn't use them :)
Well the only way of really noticing how long they last it to measure plan growth. The week I put the tabs in the swords started to flourish. They actually sent the runners because of that. I was also dosing more C02 (Excel) and More Fertz at the time.

Yeah that sheet can be really helpful. It lists all of the chemicals plants use to grow. I got the main list from the products and then I did more research on the 17 minerals plants require to grow (There are 19 listed on that chart)...I forgot why....lol

I'm running low on all my fertz so I plan on finishing this chart within the next week or two before I buy new fertz. :D
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Old 12-05-2012, 11:13 PM   #98
 
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Very nice, love the 75.
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Old 12-06-2012, 05:27 PM   #99
 
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I thought Cardinals weren't supposed to be stocked with Discus? Or any of those longer shaped fish like the rummynose? <---I heard this somewhere, forgot where. but I am not too sure of how accurate it is.
I think you're not supposed to stock torpedo-shaped fish with angels as they are the more predatory of the two. And it's usually neons (1.5 in) that you hear this caution with. Cardinals (2 in) get a bit larger, same with rummynose (2 in). I've also heard it mentioned that if discus (and angelfish) grow up with these fish, they are much less likely to see them as a food source. These two fish are often mentioned as good companions for discus.

^-^ I'll be so excited to see you get this tank up and running! A tank like this is a dream of mine in the future!
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Old 12-06-2012, 07:19 PM   #100
 
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I think you're not supposed to stock torpedo-shaped fish with angels as they are the more predatory of the two. And it's usually neons (1.5 in) that you hear this caution with. Cardinals (2 in) get a bit larger, same with rummynose (2 in). I've also heard it mentioned that if discus (and angelfish) grow up with these fish, they are much less likely to see them as a food source. These two fish are often mentioned as good companions for discus.

^-^ I'll be so excited to see you get this tank up and running! A tank like this is a dream of mine in the future!
Yeah the discus I would be getting would have to be small because they are just soooo expensive. That would be good if the rummies could go with the discus BUT they are from SE Asia.

I wont give up on trying to keep the 75 an Amazon Biotope. When I get the 90 gallon I can put all the asian fish in there like my Rasboras

My goal is to have an Amazon tank and a Iwagumi Style tank (with more cover than the normal style).

btw I posted a LOT of picture on my fish blog. Here is a link Mass Picture Post – 75 Gallon and 29 Gallon Update | Termato's Freshwater Aquariums

I think the majority of those pictures I put on either the chat room here or on this thread :)
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