1st tank 55G - Page 2
Tropical Fish

Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources » The Tropical Fish Keeping Community » Aquarium Photography » Freshwater Journals » 1st tank 55G

1st tank 55G

This is a discussion on 1st tank 55G within the Freshwater Journals forums, part of the Aquarium Photography category; --> Super thanks for the update..... 3 weeks. So one advantage you have is that things are dilluted lets say in 55 gal vs a ...

Reply
Old 01-17-2012, 12:08 PM   #11
 
SeaHorse's Avatar
 
Super thanks for the update..... 3 weeks. So one advantage you have is that things are dilluted lets say in 55 gal vs a 10 gallon tank. Use the analogy a drop of food colouring in a cup of water, vs a drop in your 55 gallon. Less intense for lack of a better word. Things take longer, are slower reacting with more volume. Having said that, if you do have a problem with your tank, you would have to make a bigger water change to dilute down the issue. or two smaller ones back to back... i.e. Ammonia or NitriIte or NitrAtes. Have you read.... A beginner's guide to Cycling a tank?
http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/f...m-cycle-38617/

and this on Bacteria?
http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/f...quarium-74891/

Yes I am also just starting my first planted tanks in 40 years of fish keeping... Had cichlids for many many years that basicly live in rock displays. Now my tank pics show all plastic plants but I'm trying to make the switch. so I'm learning to as I go.

Once you have done your first set of testing you will have a better idea of where you are.... post your numbers here.
SeaHorse is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-18-2012, 10:29 AM   #12
 
I just ordered the following:
API FRESHWATER MASTER TEST KIT
2 of Aqueon 06107 Pro Heaters Submersible Aquarium Heater, 150-Watt
50 ft. Python No Spill - 50' NO SPILL CLEAN & FILL Item #5014 50NS

Hopefully i will be able to take care of my fish and tank better :) Will be putting on the black background this weekend.

Thanks again for all the advice i really appreciate it.
Deadstroke174 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-18-2012, 12:18 PM   #13
 
SeaHorse's Avatar
 
A couple more things since you are new and jumping right into the Python. I love mine!!
Every bucket of water or the return flow of water in your Python must be the exact temperature of your Tank's water and be De-chlorinated. When you have drained the amt of water OUT, close the valve at the tank to stop the out flow. Figure out the amt of water you have removed and add your declorinator to the tank for the volume of water that has been removed and being replaced. dilute it abit. It works instant! doesn't have to sit to work... We recommend PRIME, it is more exp at first but you use way less, yes it smells bad. Make sure you have a thermometer so that you can check the water temp of the tank and then at the tap before you start the back flow back to your tank. I sit a little marg tub in the sink under the bottom and stick the therm in it to see where the tap's water temp is sitting. Each time you adjust the flow/heat, dump out the tub and refill to get a quicker reading. once it's the right temp. amd the flow is not to hard/fast, lock the bottom to reverse the flow and RUN back to the tank to open the shut off valve. Lots of pressure so don't take too long. DO NOT LEAVE the tank as you can overflow if you forget about it. some people even put their car keys by the tank so they can't leave and flood their home. !!! It's been done!

when you get thru all this cycling, and start to do gravel vacumming and filter media cleaning, make sure you are again using dechlorinated water, or old tank water.... or you will cause a mini cycle all over again. Chlorine kills. As do excessive Amm, NI and NA. Water changes done properly will dilute these conditions.

When you do your testing please take a moment to test your tap water too. Amm, NI and NA.
If your tap water is .25 ammonia, you can't expect numbers less than that . correct?
Keep a few tubs/nets/buckets etc strickly for this tank... (if you get another, seperate tools for each tank).
SeaHorse is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-01-2012, 10:19 AM   #14
 
Here are some new pics with a black background.

I also tested the water last night as i finally got my testing kit and here is what i found.

PH 7.6
Ammonia .25
Nitrite 2.0ppm
Nitrate 30 ppm
Water temp maintained at 80

It is also very cloudy since i did a water change this past weekend.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg iphone pictures 107.jpg (43.6 KB, 22 views)
File Type: jpg iphone pictures 108.jpg (61.6 KB, 22 views)
File Type: jpg iphone pictures 109.jpg (74.9 KB, 22 views)
File Type: jpg iphone pictures 110.jpg (76.1 KB, 23 views)
Deadstroke174 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-01-2012, 11:20 AM   #15
 
SolaceTiger's Avatar
 
Based on those readings... I think you might have to do another water change. I would do 50% personally.
SolaceTiger is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to SolaceTiger For This Useful Post:
Deadstroke174 (02-01-2012)
Old 02-01-2012, 11:26 AM   #16
 
The only thing i add to the water right now is Tetra AquaSafe Water Conditioner. Do I need anything else?
Deadstroke174 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-01-2012, 11:55 AM   #17
 
Oscarfish789's Avatar
 
Great tank and is that a top fin 55 gallon starter kit?
Oscarfish789 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-01-2012, 12:15 PM   #18
 
MinaMinaMina's Avatar
 
Welcome to the world of fishies!

I see various Molly, Platy, and Black Widow Tetra. You can click on the shaded names to view the species profile and learn more about their requirements.

When you get through the cycle and have stabilized your water parameters, you'll want to have at least 6 Black Widow Tetra. Do NOT add any more fish until you're cycled, and then only slowly! Always thoroughly research your aquarium decisions, and never be afraid to ask us for help. We're here for you!

You'll want to do a 50% water change whenever you have readings of Ammonia or Nitrite that is greater than 0ppm, or Nitrate greater than 20ppm, or weekly (whichever comes first). Since you have chosen to cycle your tank with fish in it, you're responsible for helping them survive this toxic process with minimal damage to their systems.

To hurry your cycle along, and to further help protect your fish, there are two very helpful things you can do (besides large water changes). You can add a whole bunch of fast-growing floating plants to help suck up the toxic ammonia, etc. (If you post the details of your lighting, we can help you pick out appropriate plants. Water Sprite is generally a good floating plant for just about anybody.)
You can also "seed" your tank with biomedia from an established, HEALTHY tank. Filter material, substrate, decor, and plants can be used. These are surfaces that will contain beneficial bacteria that will help quicken your cycle.

So keep up on those water changes, and keep us posted! Good luck!
MinaMinaMina is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to MinaMinaMina For This Useful Post:
Deadstroke174 (02-01-2012)
Old 02-01-2012, 12:44 PM   #19
 
Thanks for the responses....i actually have 5 black widow tetras, 7 mollies (i think they are all mollies), 5 platy, 4 angels, and 2 frogs. I will add a few more black widow tetras once i get my readings under control. I will also head to the store this weekend to pick up some plants. The lighting i have is just want came in my starter kit which is 2 24 inch flourescent lights. Should i pick up some different lighting if so what?

How long after i do a whater change should i wait to test?

I really appreciate everyone's help. This is definately a learning experience
Deadstroke174 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-01-2012, 12:46 PM   #20
 
I also have 3 live plants, but can't remember what kind. The tank was bought for my girlfriend for Christmas but i am the one that get's to take care of it. Which is fine with me :)
Deadstroke174 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:15 AM.