Prime's effect on the fish-in cycle

twilk2012

I have tested the tap water and it is 0 for all. I set up the tank on 12/26 and much to my dismay added fish a week later. I am a newbie and did not know any better got a lot of bad info from the lfs. I lost a lot of fish along the way and am finally learning about cycling. I just wish the nitrites would go down.

1077

They will go down so long as bacteria are present .(and have food source)
Some folks get nervous during the cycling period when cloudy water appears and tank's water no longer looks pristine.
This is most often caused by bacteria bloom and is normal, but some decide to remove,replace filter material and by doing so,,they throw out the majority of bacteria that resides on the filter material in newly established tanks.
Other's clean the material in tapwater at the sink, and chloramines in this water kills off a sizeable portion of the bacteria .
So long as bacteria have source of food,they will continue to grow and cycle will eventually happen but too much food,too many fish,or as mentioned,,tampering with filter,can cause the process to take longer than need be.
Plant's can help, along with patience.

Adamson

I have not touched my filter at all, all I have been doing is gravel vacs.
Could it be possible that since my fish are producing so little Ammonia, and that because I have so many plants (about 15 in the 50 gallons) that no ammonia is getting to the filter to help with the cycle?

I have tested my tap water, it had .25 ammonia, 0 nitrites, and 10 nitrates..

Byron

I checked the other thread on your issue; did you remove that straw filter item?

Adamson

Yeah that has been removed for a week now.

Adamson

Just tested the water, these were my results:

Ph: 7.2
Ammonia: 0
Nitrites: 5 (Very bright violet color)
Nitrates: 10-20

Maxillius

hello adamson! here is what I read on prime and how to use it
Use 1 capful (5 mL) for each 200 L (50 gallons*) of new water. This removes approximately 1 mg/L ammonia, 4 mg/L chloramine, or 5 mg/L chlorine. For smaller doses, please note each cap thread is approx. 1 mL. May be added to aquarium directly, but better if added to new water first. If adding directly to aquarium, base dose on aquarium volume. Sulfur odor is normal. For exceptionally high chloramine concentrations, a double dose may be used safely. To detoxify nitrite in an emergency, up to 5 times normal dose may be used. If temperature is > 30 °C (86 °F) and chlorine or ammonia levels are low, use a half dose.

so using 5x the ammount of prime in your aquarium will make your nitrite harmless for your fish and will not slow down your cycle, and after you have added the required amount of prime you should read 0 nitrite even tho its still there but none toxic, monitor your aquarium each 2 days and on the day that you have 0 nitrite 2 days after adding prime you can be almost sure you are cycled to make sure test again the next day then the consequent day and if 0 again then you are cycled :) do a water change to remove any unwanted chemicals from prime as you will dose at 5x the normal amount!

Adamson

I know how to use prime and everything, and I know that even after you put the prime in, the Nitrites will still show up on the test even though they have been detoxified by the Prime. I am just concerned about getting the Nitrites down for good and this damn cycle ending!

Maxillius

When I used prime to detoxify nitrite it would show over limit on chart then after using prime it would indicate 0
so if you are still seeing nitrite with your test means it is not detoxify well at least with the api test kit I have
and to answer the other question there is no way to speed up a cycle aside from uping your temperature to 30c
witch should help bacteria colonize faster, make sure your fish a comfortable at these temperature because high temp can be as harmful to some fish then ammonia or nitrite!

Chesherca

Been keeping an eye on this thread, as I also have the same questions about adding Prime to a cycling tank. Thanks for all the info here. . . I'm still feeling a bit skeptical about adding ANY extra chemicals to the tank, and am very worried about what happens after the 24 hour mark when the 'binding' on the nitrites and nitrates 'breaks' and the fish feel the true levels return very suddenly (as opposed to the slow building up of these toxins that allow their systems to somewhat adjust). I didn't realize that you have to dose at 5x the normal amount in order for it to have an effect on anything other than ammonia, chlorine, and chloramine. This actually makes me feel better about the stuff, as I've never come close to dosing that high! I know that I read that nitrates and nitrites would still test positive after prime, which really worried me - I don't like not being able to trust my testing kit to show me accurately what the fish are feeling.
I think I'll have to do an experiment on this, as my tank is cycling and I'm currently in the middle of a nitrAte spike. Tomorrow, if the numbers are still high, I'll separate 2 gallons of the dirty water when I do my water change, test it as a control, then do another test at 2.5 and again at 5x the two-drops-per-gallon amount called for in the directions. I'd really like to see this for myself! IF the numbers drop to zero, it will make me feel much more comfortable using this stuff, knowing that my API test IS still showing an accurate representation of whats in my tank. The problem with the muddy ammonia reading is a whole 'nother story, though.

The information they have on their FAQ didn't make me feel any better about using it - regarding the HOW aspect:
Basically *shrug* they have no idea how it works. . . how is this to inspire confidence!?? Still, as an emergency measure, I think the stuff is good to have on-hand!


Much to think on in this thread. . . thanks again! I'll be lurking around to see if there is any more information gathered here on the stuff!