A Good Setup - 20L or 20

FluffyWolf2

Hey all, so I'm still looking into what I should do about my 10 Gallon tank, since many of you have suggested I should have a 20G tank for my set of mollies, three right now. So I wanted to ask what are some pros/cons of a 20L versus the 20... normal?

I also wanted to ask, would it be better to get x2 Filters for 20Gallon and put them on either side. Would I require a bubble stone? Etc.

Ideally I would like to have:
x3 Mollies I have
x1 Salfin Molly or x2-3 Platy's (The orange and black ones)
x3 Corys // Other bottom dweller.
x1 Pleco? If he would work in a 20G.

I was wanting to know what substrates I should consider, pumps, etc, so I can do this right and then any advice on getting a cycle going. Until I can have another tank truely cycled I'll stick to heavy maintenance on my smaller one to make sure the fish are in an idea environment. Also would you suggest any particular plants? I'd like to get some rocks for hiding, drift wood, and bushies plants, but also like to get some moss balls. :)

Any advice would help this newbie out :)

(If you're wondering about my references see Liverbearers section and "MOllies Playing or Fighting" thread, should be near the top.)

THANKS!!!

Byron

What molly species do you have now? The common black molly and its variants is a largish fish, males attaining 3 inches easily and females 5-6 inches. The reason they rarely do is because they die prematurely due to poor water conditions. The molly is not a "hardy" fish.

And if you intend those other fish, and/or have the Common Molly, I would go beyond a 20g and consider a 3-foot (i.e., around 30+ gallons).

This equates to your question of 20g long or high. The longer the tank, the more space for the fish (the fish's length relates to this, plus its temperament/territorial disposition, etc), and the larger the surface area. All else being equal, a longer tank can safely house slightly more fish than a tall, even with the same volume. So the longer the tank the better.

Live plants are good; in the harder water Corkscrew Vallisneria is ideal. It is in our profiles, click the shaded name. Floating plants like Water Sprite, Brazilian Pennywort, Dwarf Watter Lettuce.

Substrate: sand or fine gravel, darker the better. What are your water parameters, GH and pH? If this needs to be raised (molly must have medium hard or harder water with a higher basic pH) the substrate is the best way to do it, as you can get a calcareous sand/gravel. If corys are intended, sand is better.

I would not include a Bristlenose Pleco, this will compete with the mollies for algae. Most other pleco get too large for tanks under 4-feet.

I would not suggest two filters; one that is adequate for the tank will suffice, and the plants help too.

Byron.

FluffyWolf2

Thank you for the feedback. Although different fish would be fun I can always change it around to fit a 20L or other configuration. I currently own two lyretails and one normal molly. Would you recommend any additions to my three buddies in a 20 gallon to add variety? I do like little corys they are cute.
I may change my 10 gallon into a tank for if i have fry. Is there any particular type of fish that would do okay by itself in the 10 gallon then be okay with fry company or should I just focus on a 20 gallon and have the 10 for quarintine or birth?
Thanks!

Byron

If a 20g is the largest tank you can get, then definitely make it a 20L. That tank is 30 inches in length (compared to 24 inches for the normal 20g high) so the increased surface area is beneficial as I mentioned previously, for the oxygen exchange at the surface and also for the space for the fish. But in this same length you can have a 29g, which gives you a bit more volume for the same footprint. One of my tanks is a 29g and this is a nice tank.

A group of corys (5) in addition to the three molly you now have is about it for a 30-inch tank. The molly will be better on their own in the larger space. The 10g would be good as an emergency QT tank.