Filter Flow Vs Air Pump Water agitation.

Dawes

Filter Flow Vs Air Pump Water agitation.

I’ve recently bought the newer Model Fluval Roma 240 (With new model 305 EF along with it)

The filter spout outlet reaches just below the water level and can be adjusted so that there is quite a lot of water agitation, how good is this compared to such agitation as Air Pumps?

The water flow at the top of the water is similar to that of a Wavemaker, as it makes quite a large stream/spray surface area of ripples ontop.


Would the filter agitation be sufficient enough? Or would I –need- to use my Air Pump too? (Eheim 200 L/H).

I only intend to keep peaceful Barbs, a Gourami and maybe a Rainbow Shark/small Species Pleco.

Sanguinefox

Gourami are not really a fan of fast moving water currents. So if the current is too strong at the top your gourami could have issues.

I wish I could say more than that but I don't know enough about this to be of much help. To me though I would think that having the water at the top is far more useful than having a bubble type system. What your filters do should be enough with surface agitation. However I'd wait for someone who knows a bit more to chime in.

Nilet699

Meh, I have 2 Dwarf Gourami who are very happy in the sedate water, but during the few hours the air stone is on, spend the entire time directly in the fast flow of the water/air.

Up and down they go playing in it
Just my 0.02

JDM

That much surface agitation is lots without the airpump.

Do you have plants? If so this isn't as important as they net consumers of CO2 and producers of O2.

I'm running a 220GPH filter on my 37 gallon and considering methods of reducing the overall current in the tank by diffusing the output. If you went to a spraybar or something similar, it would reduce water current while keeping a level of agitation that you may want. That's a work in progress for me though so those who have already done this step could answer better.

Jeff.

AbbeysDad

Just my $02, but perhaps with the exception of known river fish, most of our fish are tank or pond raised and not subjected to fast currents. That being said, we want good circulation in the tank to stimulate plants and prevent thermal gradients, but not so much that fish must struggle to stay in one place or be swept away. I once had a bubble bar on one side but don't anymore and here and there, some fish would swim up and down in the bubble stream like a ride at Disney.
My AC70 HOB returns are baffled with a DIY water bottle to disperse and slightly reduce the surface flow.

pop

hello;
I have a fluval 305 filter and use a whisper 300 air pump pumping into my aquarium creating I suspect a very bouncy water current with millions of bubbles all over the place. I haven’t noticed any strange behavior in the fish habits or health issues.

I am not disagreeing with anyone but I think a strong current is desirable for me even though most fish are raised in calm waters as pointed out in other post.

One reason there is so much disagreement between fish keepers is we each do things different and have been successful and may not see value in other approaches that are successful for other fish keepers. It is easy to disregard a possible new way of doing something when you are already successful doing it your way.

Pop



I thought it was doctor Marcus Welby.

Byron

Filtration and water current should be designed to suit the fish species, as not all fish are the same in their needs. Someone mentioned plants and this is another important factor; a well planted tank needs less actual "filtration" and a minimal to moderate water flow. But this may be impacted by the fish needs.

Taking only the named fish, You don't want much current in the tank [though the exact species of barb could change this, you have only said peaceful barbs] and gourami do not appreciate currents. But you should not combine gourami with barb anyway, as the latter will be more active swimming and this is not a good match with sedate fish like gourami.

Some pleco occur in fast-flowing rivers, some in very quiet streams and flooded forest, so here again the species is important. Sometimes it is possible in large tanks [I assume this is a 5-foot tank at minimum] to offer some variation. In my 115g 5-foot tank I have mainly sedate fish that do not appreciate currents. But I also have a trio of Centromochlus perugiae which absolutely must have some current. I have been able to satisfy this need by placing a standing chunk of bogwood with tunnels right at the left side very close to the filter return. It is a Rena Filstar XP3 and I removed the spray bar to use the spigot, and it is on the back wall about 15 inches in from the end wall and aimed directly at the wood. This gives the cats just what they want--and within half a day after being introduced to the tank, they all took up residence in this wood obviously due to the current; but the flow hits the end wall and then is significantly slowed so that down the length of the tank is is barely noticeable; none of the plants move at all. This is ideal for the other fish (Bolivian Ram, several quiet tetra, corys, whiptails).

The Rainbow Shark is nice, but notice in the profile that this will limit other substrate fish.

Many mistakenly choose a filter without regard to the fish, so here you are going about this the correct way. Hope the above is of some help.

Byron.