Water Changes - Page 4 - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources
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post #31 of 41 Old 04-24-2013, 03:53 PM
I believe (not an expert on SW by any means) that RO or RO/DI water is often used in SW because the minerals are in the marine salt used. It is correct that RO and RO/DI water has all dissolved minerals and trace elements removed and is too pure to be used in the aquarium as fish absorb minerals and trace elements through a form of osmosis. You would need additives to use RO or RO/DI water in a FW aquarium.

Having 'said' that I have read that water in the amazon, due to the massive rain fall, is very pure and on the acidic side. With this in mind, depending on the tap water, one could make a case that very good and pure aquarium water just might be had by mixing tap water 50/50 with RO water. This maybe especially beneficial for some fish (e.g. discus?)
(I've just started doing this somewhat, except I'm using water I'm collecting from my basement dehumidifier instead of RO.)

On the other hand, many of the fish we purchase are tank raised using tap water so going to great lengths to adjust our water may simply not be worth the cost or effort.

I think the bottom line is, as others have mentioned, the use of good tap water, conditioned as/if necessary, will likely yield the best success.

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Last edited by AbbeysDad; 04-24-2013 at 05:17 PM.
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post #32 of 41 Old 04-24-2013, 07:25 PM
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If the trace amounts of metals found in tap water can be harmful to fish/corals in a sW environment, is there any water conditioner out there that can remove those trace elements? or is R/O the only solution?
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post #33 of 41 Old 04-24-2013, 07:32 PM
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ur going to pick up some traces and heavy metals from your plumbing. ro/di to my knowledge is the only way around it. but again the amount is minimal but im not sure the effect on SW as ive never done one yet. but I don't see any issues with my plants when using tap. but sw reef and fr plant tanks way different. kinda like apples and oranges.
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post #34 of 41 Old 04-24-2013, 08:07 PM
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If the trace amounts of metals found in tap water can be harmful to fish/corals in a sW environment, is there any water conditioner out there that can remove those trace elements? or is R/O the only solution?
Most water conditioners handle heavy metals, which is what you're thinking of here. Copper, iron, zinc, manganese, etc. Public water systems have to be within specific levels, but what is safe for humans is not so safe for fish with some of these, copper for instance. But a conditioner that detoxifies heavy metals will deal with this.

Having said that, if for some reason your house system is putting these in at high levels, and copper from copper pipes is a possibility, that is a different matter. But it also might not be safe to drink either, if it was that high.

Byron.

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Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #35 of 41 Old 04-24-2013, 09:57 PM
Tip: If/when there's concern about house plumbing (like lead solder sweat copper supply lines), running the water for 3-5 minutes or so clears the water that has been setting in the pipes and the residence time of the running water in the pipes isn't enough to cause a problem.

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Last edited by AbbeysDad; 04-24-2013 at 10:35 PM.
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post #36 of 41 Old 04-24-2013, 10:04 PM
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I would have to imagine those with extensive reef systems still don't risk the contamination and go with ro
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post #37 of 41 Old 04-24-2013, 10:05 PM
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Kinda like using prime for dexhlorination it's not a if deal but some will take the precaution
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post #38 of 41 Old 04-24-2013, 10:30 PM
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I would have to imagine those with extensive reef systems still don't risk the contamination and go with ro
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I was speaking strictly for FW use. I believe that serious SW (especially reef) enthusiasts use Ro or RO/DI water* with marine salt....that already has the minerals.

* or they just might leave the condo, go down to the beach and come back with a couple of buckets of water.

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Last edited by AbbeysDad; 04-24-2013 at 10:38 PM.
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post #39 of 41 Old 04-24-2013, 10:55 PM
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Using Untreated regular tap water will lead to major algae issues in a saltwater / reef tank. You would be much better spending money and getting a good system something with 5 stages of purification.
Adding a water conditioner is not 100% necessary but would be seen as beneficial by many, there are some who dont use but while we cant force you to use it, you would potentially have less issues.

There are very sophisticated tests for all sorts of things in saltwater, although unless you have a full blown reef system which will take over a year to achieve these are not always necessary.

RO/DI water coming from a good quality system with an attached TDS (Total Disolved Solids counter), will produce very pure water. TDS is what you want to want to have very little of in saltwater.
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10g Fry / Hospital / QT tank (as needed)

75g Saltwater Reef, Ocellaris Clownfish, Lyretail Antias (baby), Lemon damsel, Longtail Fairy Wrasse, purple dottyback, snails, crabs and a few LPS corals.

220g Still sitting empty (come on Lottery I need the numbers to come up!)
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post #40 of 41 Old 04-25-2013, 09:08 AM
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Tip: If/when there's concern about house plumbing (like lead solder sweat copper supply lines), running the water for 3-5 minutes or so clears the water that has been setting in the pipes and the residence time of the running water in the pipes isn't enough to cause a problem.
+1

you broke the code.

I simply use a commonoly used cold water faucet and let it run for a little while before collecting.

By using that method combined with rapidily growing plants/algae things copper are acceptable for any tank including sps types.

Funny thing also is the tank/system all the sudden becomes much less expensive to setup and maintain.

And you do still have to maintain cal, alk, mag plus provide lighting and food for the corals.

But $5 worth of fast growing macros can replace thousands of dollars of equipment and water changes over a few years.

Still just my .


.02


(see I'm really a cheepie )

maintain Fw and marine system with a strong emphasis on balanced, stabilized system that as much as possible are self substaning.

have maintained FW systems for up to 9 years with descendants from original fish and marine aquariums for up to 8 years.

With no water changes, untreated tap water, inexpensive lighting by first starting the tank with live plants (FW) or macro algae( marine)

see: http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/a...-build-295530/
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