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Spong Filter Convert- School Me!

This is a discussion on Spong Filter Convert- School Me! within the Freshwater Aquarium Equipment forums, part of the Beginner Freshwater Aquarium category; --> I'm certainly open to hearing anything else anyone has, fer sher. But everyone so far has been very helpful, thank you! Hey, lorax84- by ...

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Spong Filter Convert- School Me!
Old 02-02-2012, 11:41 PM   #11
 
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I'm certainly open to hearing anything else anyone has, fer sher. But everyone so far has been very helpful, thank you!

Hey, lorax84- by having the pump "sit on the stand", do you mean on the lower shelf, or on the surface that supports the tank, or higher?
Also, I don't see a 'head' rating on the pump. Where do I find that? The specs I see are: 115 Watts AC, 60 HZ, 2000 cc/min, 4.0 PSI and 4 volts. (Also, weirdly, the specs listed on my pump do not match the specs listed for the same model, new production. Odd. Does that change anything?)

Does anyone know where I might get a back-of-the-tank hanger for my pump? I've got a lot of other DIY things going on, it might be nice to just buy one.

I'm really jazzed about this! The hitchhiker eggs that came on plants were hatched, grown out, and returned to the store this week. So now I have my tank off 'hold', and I can start getting it scaped and stocked! YAY!!! I'm so excited! And I just can't hide it! Yeah, yeah! I'm about to lose control and I think... um, you get the drift.
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Old 02-03-2012, 11:21 AM   #12
 
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on alot of my tanks that use air, the air pump is small enough to sit on the hood, behind the light. I keep it there just for the sake of easy access.

I could be wrong on this, but I believe an air pumps "head" refers to its maximum depth through water, not through air tubing. To displace water 2 feet it requires 1 psi, (pound per square inch) and I believe the exact number is 0.43psi per foot. Im leaning towards (and again I could be dead wrong) that if you have a 24" deep aquarium, you would need 1 psi to displace the water in the air tubing. So at 1 psi youre breaking even, beyond that you get bubbles. So 4 psi would be fine, in your case. I have to believe that elevation, and horizontal distance to the aquarium, would be only trivial differences.

thats just my $0.02, and I could be wrong
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Old 02-03-2012, 06:27 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beetlebz View Post
To displace water 2 feet it requires 1 psi, (pound per square inch) and I believe the exact number is 0.43psi per foot.
Awesome been meaning to look up numbers like that but you saved me the time!

Edit: I would think you general estimation of 2 feet per 1 psi would make up for any loss due to the length of the tubing as thats the biggest factor since we are talking about air, its not so much height or distance as its the volume the air pump needs to pressurize that would be the other main factor.

Last edited by zof; 02-03-2012 at 06:37 PM..
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Old 02-04-2012, 10:54 AM   #14
 
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Since air is neutrally buoyant with the rest of the air, I believe elevation would have no effect on the run of air hose. If you were pumping water, you would have to increase output to overcome gravity, but when dealing in terms of neutral buoyancy, the elevation, in and of itself, would have no direct bearing.

friction loss over a length of hose is possible, but I cant see it being in any measurable terms or quantities.

If im correct, you can put the air pump on the floor (with a check valve) and it will be just fine. and It will work the same as the pump bolted to the ceiling.
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Old 02-05-2012, 11:53 AM   #15
 
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Thanks! That makes sense.

At my local swap meet yesterday, I got some steals on Hydro-Sponges and air pumps. So because of the sizes I could find, the new 10g has a II and the 25g has a III. I was going to do a II in the 25g with another II stacked on top to save on space, but the sponges were so very cheap that I couldn't turn down the III! What a score!

Anyway, here's my 'what if' question:
I've never really had any illness, just once with a very old betta. So I don't really have much practical experience with medications. But I know that you have to use activated carbon to remove the meds from the water when you're done. So how would I do that with a sponge filter? Does that mean I have to run some sort of power or canister filter on the QT or any tank after medicating?
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Old 02-05-2012, 01:16 PM   #16
 
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Not at all. You could put the carbon in a filter media bag, and tie it to the airline right above the sponge filter. You could grab a cheap hob filter just for carbon (when you need to use it) which I imagine would be more efficient...

But I imagine a hefty water change (say, 40%) and some carbon for a week or so tied to the air line, followed by your normal routine water change will take care of it.

most "standard" meds arent going to hurt the other fish, though a hospital tank is really the best route. FWIW, I keep a 10g that I can fill in an emergency as a hospital tank, and between the tiny sponge filter and the tank I have a total of about 15 bucks invested in it ;)

edit.. I didnt realize you were talking about your hospital tank. If its a full time hospital tank, thats always up and running, do what I described above. If its only filled and used when you need a hospital tank, just dump the water out and rinse the tank
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Old 02-09-2012, 10:19 PM   #17
 
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So, one more question! Thanks, you guys, you've been awesome.

So, in my new 10g setup... I have a sponge filter in the left rear corner. Right next to it, to the right, I have a cheap-o Tetra heater in the vertical position. It is the sucky kind of heater that is preset to 78 degrees F, +/- 2 degrees, it is 50w, and rated 5g-15g. I hate this kind of heater, but its all I had.

So my thermometer that is to the left of the sponge filter in the very corner (i.e. 3 inches away from the heater) is only registering 74-75 degrees F. I'm about to verify this with a second thermometer. I'm also going to measure the temp right next to the heater, and on the far right of the tank. If this too-low temp is accurate, what should I do? I'm kind of thinking that, since a sponge filter doesn't create much current/water movement, maybe the heater is working properly and its 78 degrees F (+/- 2 degrees) right around the heater, but the water isn't moving enough. If this is so, how do I correct the situation? Does anyone else have this problem? Will placing the heater horizontally and low on the back wall make a difference in how well and evenly it heats the water?

Thank you guys so much! I really love having this forum as a resource- Everyone is polite and helpful, and there are some experienced and knowledgeable people who are glad to take the time to help out. This place is pretty priceless!
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Old 02-09-2012, 10:32 PM   #18
 
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I have had issues with those heaters not being entirely accurate, but the ones that are, havnt failed me yet. Im thinking turning it sideways will be a big help :)

my 20g breeder, and my 10g cory betta tank both have them, and they are both 78 ISH. I cant say that I wouldnt rather have a quality jager or fluval heater, but they do the job!

something else comes to mind in reviewing this thread... the check valves for air pumps (in line style) are notoriously cheap. I set up my new hydrosponge in my 55g today and couldnt get it to work. Turned out the check valve was shot, and almost completely blocking the air flow. I only put the pump above the tank for safety sake :)

Last edited by beetlebz; 02-09-2012 at 10:36 PM..
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Old 02-09-2012, 11:00 PM   #19
 
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Good to know! I'll report back when I have new temps, or whatever happens next. Thanks!
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