Single 24" Bulb Ballast HELP please
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Single 24" Bulb Ballast HELP please

This is a discussion on Single 24" Bulb Ballast HELP please within the Freshwater Aquarium Equipment forums, part of the Beginner Freshwater Aquarium category; --> First i'm a newbie so hello everyone!! (far from "new" to freshwater fish.. lol) Also if this post is in the wrong place/section sorry. ...

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Single 24" Bulb Ballast HELP please
Old 11-01-2012, 08:29 AM   #1
 
Question Single 24" Bulb Ballast HELP please

First i'm a newbie so hello everyone!!
(far from "new" to freshwater fish.. lol)

Also if this post is in the wrong place/section sorry.

I recently dusted off my 29g tank that had been sitting in my garage covered for 8 years.
got everything up and running, replaced a lot of stuff with new and improved and
being a "smaller tank" i only have a couple Green Terror's and Blue Acara's.

I ordered a newer T8 50/50 bulb and tried to get it going in my Stock All-Glass
Oak Light Fixture that fits it's matching lid and matching stand.

It had a T12 (no clue color/watt/anything other than size) working fine but OLD (9-10years?)
I was told and read the newer T8 "should" work but all it does is TRY to start and blink but won't
stay on. (i tried new FS2 starter with it only full bulb blinking and not staying on)

I've done TONS of reading and read here and all over.
I'd like to keep using this fixture and no issue changing the ballast....
BUT

I'm having trouble finding what ballast i should use for a SINGLE 24" 17watt T8 Bulb.

It's tough to find a T12 50/50 or brighter.
I'm FAR from an expert on lighting or a/c wattage, voltage
so i keep finding Single bulb T8 ballasts but so many i have ZERO clue which one to buy.

Thanks for reading and ANY help.
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Old 11-01-2012, 07:36 PM   #2
 
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my experience is that T8s don't do well in fixtures with ballasts designed for T12s, the wattage is wrong as well as other aspects like operating frequency, apparently some work, but the ones I've tried just flickered dimly

I would just get a T12 bulb like this: F20T12 Fluorescent Lamp - Daylight

most 50/50 bulbs are meant for marine applications in that half of the light is full spectrum while the other half is single wavelength in the 400 nm range for corals and such

Last edited by Quantum; 11-01-2012 at 07:40 PM..
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Old 11-02-2012, 01:56 AM   #3
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Quantum View Post
my experience is that T8s don't do well in fixtures with ballasts designed for T12s, the wattage is wrong as well as other aspects like operating frequency, apparently some work, but the ones I've tried just flickered dimly

I would just get a T12 bulb like this: F20T12 Fluorescent Lamp - Daylight

most 50/50 bulbs are meant for marine applications in that half of the light is full spectrum while the other half is single wavelength in the 400 nm range for corals and such
Thank you for your reply..... as ive said i dont have any clue about "kelvin temperature" Sorry if
this comes across "dumb".

I have a old T12 coralife 7,100k and it's pretty much a black light. (why it's sat with $45 price tag still on it unused since... my guess is 1985)

My bulb now has a violet look to it but who knows how long i used it before it sat for 5-8years.
I currently have young Green Terrors, Blue Acaras, 1 Jack Dempsey.

And the Blue Atlantic Makes the blue and the orangeish yellow in the fins "pop"
but makes the green in the bodies and everything else look like **** and very dark.

That's the ONLY reason i went 50/50 is i was told half Atlantic blue half bright day light.
6,500k / 420nm

The one you pointed out is only 6,500k (which is equal to the UltraSun SuperDaylight)
but me having not much knowledge between 3,000K and 7,000k or what a "nm" is.

Would that "daylight" bulb still bring out the beautiful bright blue spots on my Jack Dempsey,
or the "war paint" like look of my Green Terror's or is that where the "nm" and blue spectrum
of the bulb comes into play??


I've read 2 or 3 other posts here about others TRYING to get T8's to work in their T12 fixtures
and seems all ended up just changing the ballast and now running T8's fine.
No one said what make or model they chose and i went surfing and found 8 or 9 ballasts
that "might" work.

Thought i better ask people in the know and know actually know about this stuff before i order blindly.

surfed around a few sites and seems like PRO's here and an abundance of knowledge on this forum.

Last edited by PdxMotoxer; 11-02-2012 at 02:04 AM..
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Old 11-02-2012, 07:17 AM   #4
 
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If no live plants are present, then color temp is largely a matter of personal preference and the 50/50 tube can be used with no ill effects and will likely accentuate the markings on the cichlids

K is Kelvin, a temperature scale, but in this context refers to 'correlated color temperatrure'. It gives an indication of the spectral output of the light source. The lower the temp (K), the relatively more red, the higher the temp the more blue; 6500K replicates sunlight in appearance and has a roughly equal amount of blue, green, red and will look much more yellow compared to the the pink (meant for plants; high in blue and red) or 50/50 bulbs.

Nanometer (nm) is wavelength, so if the light output of a bulb is listed as nm, it means it emits light of a single wavelength. The 6500K/420nm bulb has a mix of phosphors so that half of the light is a specific blue wavelength (420nm) and the other half is broader spectrum (including blue, green, and red). A higher K bulb (somethiing like 10000 or 12000) would be similar in that it will have relatively more blue light, but not to the extent the 50/50 would be.

If you change the ballast, I think the most important aspect would be wattage, 24" T8s are designed to take 17 watts, ballasts meant for longer bulbs will deliver higher wattage.
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