Should I replace sponge filter after ich treatment? - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources
 
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post #1 of 6 Old 11-02-2013, 07:36 PM Thread Starter
Should I replace sponge filter after ich treatment?

Im currently treating my tank for a minor ich outbreak and had to remove the carbon from my 2 Penguin 200s. Ive supplemented the filter cartridges with floss and also installed a power head with a sponge filter attached to increase circulation and aeration. Im considering leaving the power head and sponge combo in permanently. Aside from the obvious water change, should i replace the sponge after treatment? Im afraid of the possibility ich may stay in the sponge and turn up again.
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post #2 of 6 Old 11-03-2013, 06:37 AM
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You'll be fine to leave the sponge in place - I didn't change mine out when I had an outbreak a few years ago....

There is a lot of great information on the web concerning the life cycle of the parasite.

Have fun and be PATIENT!
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post #3 of 6 Old 11-03-2013, 07:26 AM
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If ich shows up again after treatment it is because it was reintroduced to the tank, or because the treatment was not successful at eradicating it from the tank. Once ich is successfully treated it will never reinfect the fish, unless you reintroduce it.

There is no reason to do anything to the media, because the treatments treat that too.

125 - BGK, chanchito cichlid, pictus cats, silver dollars, palmas bichir
125 - cichlids (severums, bolivian rams, chocolate), rainbows ( turquoise, red), loaches (angelicus, zebra, kuhli and horseface), plecos (BN, RL and clown), denison barbs, tiretrack eel, pearl gouramis, betta
90 - Congo tetras, african knife, upside down cats, spotted ctenopoma, kribensis, delhezzi bichir
2.5 - betta
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post #4 of 6 Old 11-03-2013, 08:18 AM Thread Starter
Glad to hear! It is a minor infestation so that makes me feel better. Im def gonna keep the setup in my tank permanently Im already noticing a difference in water cleanliness. Now if this ich would clear up so I can put the carbon back in my filters that would be ideal.
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post #5 of 6 Old 11-03-2013, 08:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyclesnipas View Post
Im def gonna keep the setup in my tank permanently Im already noticing a difference in water cleanliness.
Good deal!

I love sponge filters and run them in all of my tanks.

Hopefully the ich will clear for you very soon....

Have fun and be PATIENT!
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post #6 of 6 Old 11-03-2013, 08:44 AM
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Ich is one of the most common ailments in the hobby, and is by far the easiest to treat so it's good to know how to take care of it. Once you've done it a few times you'll see that it's not a big deal. In fact, you'll probably not even start a thread about it.

There are a few different ways to treat it. I am in agreement 110% with logisticguy that raising the temp to at least 86 degrees for two weeks is the best method. Wouldn't that be stressful to the fish, one might ask. The infestation is stressful, as is ANY method of treating it. However, I guarantee that the treatments are less stressful than the infestation itself, and that the relief the fish gets from treatment outweighs the stress of the treatment, whether it be heat or meds. Personally, I have administered the heat treatment to about 50 species of fish from all sorts of families, including cold water fish, and have not found a fish that couldn't handle 2 weeks at 88 degrees. I treat all new fish for ich while in quarantine. Many say you have to change the water and vacuum daily. I have found this to be entirely unnecessary. The treatment kills the parasites - removing them during the treatment is inconsequential. But if you want to do all that then by all means have at it Me? All I do is plug in the heater (which has been calibrated to take the tank to 88 - the process is slow enough as it is unless you have an overpowered heater) and feed them. That's it. It's really that easy

If you have medicated then you will want to run carbon in order to remove it. However, you don't have to use carbon all the time. Many people only use it for clearing water of medications.

125 - BGK, chanchito cichlid, pictus cats, silver dollars, palmas bichir
125 - cichlids (severums, bolivian rams, chocolate), rainbows ( turquoise, red), loaches (angelicus, zebra, kuhli and horseface), plecos (BN, RL and clown), denison barbs, tiretrack eel, pearl gouramis, betta
90 - Congo tetras, african knife, upside down cats, spotted ctenopoma, kribensis, delhezzi bichir
2.5 - betta
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