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Purchased 1st CO2 Setup

This is a discussion on Purchased 1st CO2 Setup within the Freshwater Aquarium Equipment forums, part of the Beginner Freshwater Aquarium category; --> Originally Posted by trit0n2003 Yes, even with adequate surface agitation under the glass cover, the fish where gasping for air (before co2 system was ...

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Purchased 1st CO2 Setup
Old 10-10-2011, 11:26 PM   #11
 
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Originally Posted by trit0n2003 View Post
Yes, even with adequate surface agitation under the glass cover, the fish where gasping for air (before co2 system was added). So I have been using an air stone 24/7 to fix the gasping. Also, the 84-86 degree water holds less dissolved oxygen.

Closed top combined with high temps = low oxygen

Its a 75 g with only 5- 4 inch discus, 3 cherry barbs, and a small group of corys.
The O2 thing is worrying. That should not be happening. My 55 gallon has a very tight closing top with no real gaps. At 80 degrees it holds a pretty heavy stock. No agitation and CO2 is added without any problem. The issue with the air stone is its gonna remove the CO2 more effectively then adding O2.
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Old 10-11-2011, 12:18 AM   #12
 
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Originally Posted by Mikaila31 View Post
The O2 thing is worrying. That should not be happening. My 55 gallon has a very tight closing top with no real gaps. At 80 degrees it holds a pretty heavy stock. No agitation and CO2 is added without any problem. The issue with the air stone is its gonna remove the CO2 more effectively then adding O2.
Well the only thing I have found to help is adding an airstone to the closed top of the tank.

I do anywhere from 30-40% WC on the tank every 3 days, especially for the discus. It isn't heavily stocked and has a good amount of plants (saggitaria, melon sword, amazon sword, java fern, crypts, and anubias). Not sure why, all I could assume is that the high temps for the discus is reducing the dissolved saturation capacity of oxygen.

I even looked into ammonia poisoning and didn't match up. Especially since an airstone wont reduce ammonia levels.

Any ideas would be helpful, but I'm stumped.
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Old 10-11-2011, 12:19 AM   #13
 
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Originally Posted by Kelvinlim11 View Post
Nice. Using a reactor too?

Yep an aquariumplants.com reactor they built called the EXT5000
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Old 10-11-2011, 02:35 AM   #14
 
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I do not run CO2 injection but from reading post's from those who do,, I might consider placing CO2 on it's own timer so that it comes on an hour before light's do instead of placing it on same timer with light's.
And have C O2 go off one hour before light's go off for the day.
By starting CO2 an hour before light's come on,, Plant's will have ample CO2 from the outset and won't have to spend as much energy collecting CO2, but rather they can use most of their energy gathering light, nutrient's.
Some also say that plant's can use up most available CO2 in first four or five hours depending on ppm injected.
By end of photoperiod,the plant's have pretty much closed up shop for the day, so turning CO2 off an hour before light's are off will have no negative effect on plant's or fish.(save CO2)
I might also consider placing airstone on it's own timer, programmed to run at night while CO2 is off, and plant's are using available oxygen and fishes as well. This also would prevent CO2 from being driven off during the Day due to surface agitation.
Might also consider that frequent water changes may make dialing in CO2 difficult due to fluctuating level's from water changes,, and that being injected and or lost quickly during water change, or perhap's I am over thinking?
Might wonder when you say that fishes were Gasping before CO2 was introduced, if said fishes were gasping all the time ,or primarily at night or first light. If the latter was the case,, then the airstone at night should help but would not maybe be needed during the day.
If fishes gasping were primarily the Barb's, or Cory's, then perhaps temp's are too warm for these fishes ?(most prefer much cooler temp's)
Might also keep canister filter cleaned at least monthly by rinsing material regularly in tank water removed, to prevent biological or mechanical media from getting dirty and clogging or choking bacteria with dirt ,,and also to help provide proper flow for Even dispersement of CO2 throughout the tank.
Could maybe purchase small powerhead to use in place of airstones to gently create surface turbulence without breaking the surface?
This would avoid any measureable CO2 loss during the day,, and help provide oxygen exchange of evening.
Just some thought's that may or may not prove useful.

Last edited by 1077; 10-11-2011 at 02:37 AM..
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Old 10-11-2011, 03:06 AM   #15
 
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OOps! Almost forgot.
With new application of CO2 and from lighting mentioned,, the plant's will require more of all nutrient's to perform well and keep algae at bay. Too much light, and CO2, and not enough nutrient's,,and algae will quickly take advantage of this inbalance.
Two 10,000 K 54 watt bulbs for ten hour's would maybe be dialed back to eight hours from the start and I might consider purchasing dry fertilizer's such as Macro-Micro nutrient package offered by Aquariumfrtilizer.com or,, GreeLeafaquariums.com
These fertz come in dry Form and for one tank,,you could purchase nearly a year's worth of these fertz for around 30.OO bucks shipping included.
Might then consider Googling.. Estimative Index dosing schedule for your size tank and read through several of the post's which should help you figure the right formula for your application.
Would maybe swap out the 10,000 k bulb's for 6000 K to 8000 K bulbs which would maybe be of more benefit to the plant's than Actinic.
some say plant's will adpat to whatever light is provided but why not use bulb's with color spectrum more suitable from the outset?.
Would if needed..adjust CO2 on day;s when I could observe fishes all day, and would make adjustment's very slowly (needle valve).
Hope some of this help's.
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Old 10-12-2011, 07:30 PM   #16
 
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Originally Posted by 1077 View Post
OOps! Almost forgot.
With new application of CO2 and from lighting mentioned,, the plant's will require more of all nutrient's to perform well and keep algae at bay. Too much light, and CO2, and not enough nutrient's,,and algae will quickly take advantage of this inbalance.
Two 10,000 K 54 watt bulbs for ten hour's would maybe be dialed back to eight hours from the start and I might consider purchasing dry fertilizer's such as Macro-Micro nutrient package offered by Aquariumfrtilizer.com or,, GreeLeafaquariums.com
These fertz come in dry Form and for one tank,,you could purchase nearly a year's worth of these fertz for around 30.OO bucks shipping included.
Might then consider Googling.. Estimative Index dosing schedule for your size tank and read through several of the post's which should help you figure the right formula for your application.
Would maybe swap out the 10,000 k bulb's for 6000 K to 8000 K bulbs which would maybe be of more benefit to the plant's than Actinic.
some say plant's will adpat to whatever light is provided but why not use bulb's with color spectrum more suitable from the outset?.
Would if needed..adjust CO2 on day;s when I could observe fishes all day, and would make adjustment's very slowly (needle valve).
Hope some of this help's.
Thanks for the reply!

I think I found the culprit to the low oxygen levels in the tank, last night I did my canister filter cleaning. I usually cleaned it once a month and didnt replace the material just rinse and squeeze out the big junk in it with tank water. BUT it has been a while with the same filter media, so last night instead of just cleaning the material I replaced about 1/2 of it with brand new fluffy filter fibers. Today none of the fish seem to be having difficulty breathing with the airstone off. So HORAYYYY! Hopefully it works! lol

Also, I placed the airstone on a timer for night time.

I didnt change the 10 hour light schedule, or set the CO2 to come on an hour early and shut off an hour early.

The bulbs are actually a 10k and a 5.5 or 6.0k I cant remember.

CO2 is still running at about 1 Bubble/4 seconds

pH is 7.1
kH is 8
gH test only took 1 Drop so I have extremely soft water

Going off the chart of kH/pH CO2 concentration it should be around 18-20ppm. But not sure if that will be accurate to my water conditions. I guess time will tell with the growth rates of my plants.

I use API leaf zone fertilizer, but i did purchase the micro/macro dry fertz plus some more root tabs from the recommended sources.
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