Hello,it will soon be apparent that I am an amateur.None the less is it really that rediculous for me to change a pool filter into an aquarium filter?The filter is off an 8 ft diameter x 3 ft deep blow up pool.So this thing isn't that big.If it's stronger than I think it is,can't I just restrict it some?
How big is the tank you're considering putting this filter on? What are the specifications of the filter (flow rate, media capacity, etc.)? I'd be willing to guess that pool filters are designed to be purely mechanical in nature, with high flow rates and little media capacity. Therefore, I'd guess it's not appropriate for most (maybe any) fish tank applications.
The normal filters for this size pool pump something around the house number of 300-400 GPH....So yea if you have a pretty large tank (140-180 g) and can rebuilt your filter to be able to add bio media into it, sure.
mosr pool filter are basicly fluidized sand filters whcsh have amazing biological capacity for there foot print. they need just enough flow to keep the sand suspended in the filter so you dont need a huge pump to run one but they do take up space
hello I posted about a week ago in regaurds to changing a pool filter over to an aquarium filter.Now it sounds stupid but after some research I believe it's possible. I basically am making a homemade trickle setup on a 100 gallon aquarium.it is 500 gph pump but with a cut-off valve incorporated into the plumb ing I can restrict the flow rate by half for the return.If anyone thinks otherwise please let me know.
Aquarium filters and I suspect pool filters are flow rated when empty. Why empty? Well how can you standardize the effects of the media in the filter, across the board. Will a Fluval filter with its media have the same flow rate with an Eheim with its media? So to equalize the equation, flow rates are calculated with a filter empty.
I know in one source I go to helping me make decisions on my tank, the Eheim pro 3 2073 is rated at 62% of its flow capacity when the "fresh" media is in, and its slows down after the media gets "older." One respected authority on the net I respect flogs pond filters as being excellent and good value for the money.
Personally I wouldn't use sand as my filter media, too tight, but instead use a media such as Seachem's Matrix, something that will encourage massive "good" bacteria.
Slowly, over the course of the last few years, I have more and more moved to mechanical filtration and rely very little on biological and chemical filtration. My understand has always been that the surfaces in the aquarium hold far more beneficial bacteria than the filters themselves. Not that I dont use biological filtration, I just dont use it or rely on it heavily.
on my fry tank I straight use a box filter with some filter floss. No issues.
my 55g has one tetra HOB (no bio at all, except for the mech pad) and a penguin biowheel 200.
my 20g ram tank has an aqua clear 20 filter on it, with just the included few ceramic cylinders.
my 110g has 2 dual tetra HOBs on it, and then my ecco 2236 has the bio media.
I usually just swap filter pads when they can no longer be swished clean, and I dont typically experience ammonia spikes or mini cycles, though I also dont do water changes, gravel vacs, and filter pad changes at the same time.
Im wondering if he could just find a spot in the filter for a bag of biomedia, aqua clear style?
A sand filter can make an excellent aquarium filter - many commercial models and home made versions exist and work well.
As to the small pool sand filter, the only issue is the pump. Assuming you can plumb so that the return flow is reduced sufficiently so as not to cause pump damage (best setup with re-filtration by-pass), it would work well. I'm not sure how you will backflush the thing and you might be better served with a good HOB or canister filter.
pool filters would most likely agitate the water too much unless u refine the delivery
agitated water causes fish stress and death
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