nitrite off chart freshwater 20 gallon - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources
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post #1 of 5 Old 11-28-2012, 11:13 AM Thread Starter
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nitrite off chart freshwater 20 gallon

I started my new tank, letting it run 3 weeks just learned it should have had ammonia added. The parameters were neutral. Added 7 plat ties and two bamboo shrimp on 11/5. Seemed OK. Fed flakes, fish seems to finish all, fed times a day. Three days later Frye appeared-omg caught11 and added baby tank.
Did 1/3 water change, added some live plants--nitrate,nitrite ammonia off chart added amquell- no change fish started flashing, algae started growing-added 3 algae eaters- that worked, shrimp molt ed on 11/10, turned red and died 3 days later. It had been cute,active constantly filtering-the other one stayed also molt ed 11/23 and died 3 days later. Will not add more till nitrite is under control.
Am now changing water every morning after feeding and vacuuming as well as you can with fry and plants.ammonia 0,nitrate20,nitrite off chart,deep pink,hardness,150
Chlorine 0, alkalinety 120, Ph 7.2.
Fish no longer flashing but algae eaters dart back and forth at night tank lights are on 12 feeding less.
Algae growing green spots on fake stump and black spots on plant leaf
I learned too late that my tank was not cycled. So unless you advise something different I will continue changing daily water,adding a mquell and stress symes as directed on bottle. Fertilize once a week with flora pride.
Oh, do I add warm tap water or should I heat on stove to get to 74, tank temp ???
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post #2 of 5 Old 11-30-2012, 07:46 AM
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Im a fan of doing 50% water changes with 20 gallon tanks or smaller. Its very easy to remove and add half the tank. It also makes it easy to know what your tanks new parameters will be. Assuming your tap waters nitrogen compounds (ammonia, nitrite and nitrate) are 0 (not always the case), you will cut your tanks Nitrogen compound measurements in half.

Algae is normal in a tank but if you think their is too much try reducing the length of the time for the aquarium light.

There is no need to heat the water on the stove. If the tap water is a big difference in temp, let it sit and get to room temperature before adding.
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post #3 of 5 Old 11-30-2012, 08:32 AM
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Make sure you have plenty of live fast growing stem/floating plants. This helps with ammonia and provides cover for the fry. It sounds like you're starting to cycle. Keep up your water changes for now. When I do water changes, I use treated tap water as close to the aquarium water temperature as possible with the wrist thermometer. I error on the side of added water being just a tad warmer than the aquarium water, never cooler. Best of luck.

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post #4 of 5 Old 11-30-2012, 09:08 AM
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Always as well when adding water use a good dechlorniator, such as Prime, this will aid in reducing what you are putting in the tank straight from the tap water.

Have you tested your tap water for nitrates, ammonia etc? Many water companies will add more ammonia and Chlorine at this time of year to counteract the effect of rain water run off as the seasons change.

10g Fry / Hospital / QT tank (as needed)

75g Saltwater Reef, Ocellaris Clownfish, Lyretail Antias (baby), Lemon damsel, Longtail Fairy Wrasse, purple dottyback, snails, crabs and a few LPS corals.

220g Still sitting empty (come on Lottery I need the numbers to come up!)
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post #5 of 5 Old 11-30-2012, 09:53 AM
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Good point, Tazman. I can smell the difference in the amount of chlorine in our water. Of course, the water temperature makes a difference in the retention of chlorine also.

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