Originally Posted by Agent13
Oh ok RSVBiffer.. I was confused because I know you really do know your stuff lol. I don't remember 30yrs ago but I certainly remember 20yrs ago when I kept salt and boy oh boy have things changed. I didn't filter more then 3-5x I think on my salt back then ... At least I didn't do a UGF though ..
Unfortunately I did do the UGF thing and with an air driven PS
. Those were the days, they were very basic and it certainly provided a challenge. Mind you, with that setup I kept a breeding pair of wild-caught Tomato Clowns for 5 years (my biggest fishkeeping achievement IMO) before the male finally curled up his fins. The female kept going for another eighteen months so it is possible but certainly wouldn't advise it
. It's easy to get 'hooked up' on turnover rates and forget some of the other basics in good water management but a higher turnover certainly allows a bigger margin of error.
An excellent point you made in your post regarding reputation of the filter as this is all too often overlooked. Far better to have a quality
unit with negligible bypass than a cheap 'huge turnover' brand where most of the water is not actually being filtered.
Sidetracking here aren't I, apologies, back to the OP.
Originally Posted by m919
Not worried about the money it will cost me to do this right! My wife told me NO dead fish and if I mess this up Ill never hear end of it as well as never be able to get a larger tank So, should I go with a filter that is good for up to 70 gal or something more in the 100's ?
I would go for the larger filter but before you do that I would decide which of the Cichlids you want to keep, as Agent indicated earlier it is a very diverse group, and then start tailoring your setup to meet their requirements. Even within a specific area the requirements of different species can vary greatly. Taking Lake Malawi as an example, the requirements of Mbuna are very different to those of the Haps/Peacocks.