filter rod is harmful to fish? - Page 2 - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources

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post #11 of 20 Old 05-10-2012, 08:07 PM
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Prime will detoxify ammonia and nitrite for 36-48 hours, that's why I was saying every other day. Of course, if you can do a 50% water change every day, please do.

You will need to raise temperature gradually, start to raise it with your first water change (use water that is hotter than the tank temperature). Then continue to raise slowly with your heater. Use a good in-tank termomether, a stick-on isn't accurate enough for this.

Change 50% water now. At the beginning of the cycle, ammonia will climb fast, two days is normal. Your water tested fine cause you had nothing in the tank that produced ammonia...
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post #12 of 20 Old 05-10-2012, 08:08 PM
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They can change in a very small amount of time.

Never believe what a pet store tells you regarding water parameters, what they think is good parameters are nearly always NOT!

What you are suggesting is fine

10g Fry / Hospital / QT tank (as needed)

75g Saltwater Reef, Ocellaris Clownfish, Lyretail Antias (baby), Lemon damsel, Longtail Fairy Wrasse, purple dottyback, snails, crabs and a few LPS corals.

220g Still sitting empty (come on Lottery I need the numbers to come up!)
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post #13 of 20 Old 05-10-2012, 08:23 PM Thread Starter
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Ok great. So, for today I will just change 50% of the water and add the existing conditioner that I have. Increase the temperature a little bit.

Tomorrow I can get Prime water conditioner, API kit and Aquarium salt.

I will test the water level, change another 50% of the water, add prime conditioner to it and some aquarium salt as per the instruction given it.

Is this fine??

One more question: currently i have one zebra danio and 2 panda platy. As per my knowledge they are kept in groups of 2 or more. Then should I buy one more zebra danio or not? and when should I think of buying a new danio? after this one gets cured?

I would also like to thank everyone for helping me and guiding me.
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post #14 of 20 Old 05-10-2012, 08:31 PM
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DO NOT add anymore fish to the tank until the cycle is complete and you have sorted the ich out. It will pass onto the new fish potentially killing them.

The water parameters need to be stable and ich totally gone before you can add anything else.

10g Fry / Hospital / QT tank (as needed)

75g Saltwater Reef, Ocellaris Clownfish, Lyretail Antias (baby), Lemon damsel, Longtail Fairy Wrasse, purple dottyback, snails, crabs and a few LPS corals.

220g Still sitting empty (come on Lottery I need the numbers to come up!)
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post #15 of 20 Old 05-10-2012, 08:32 PM
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Again no problem with what you plan on doing.

10g Fry / Hospital / QT tank (as needed)

75g Saltwater Reef, Ocellaris Clownfish, Lyretail Antias (baby), Lemon damsel, Longtail Fairy Wrasse, purple dottyback, snails, crabs and a few LPS corals.

220g Still sitting empty (come on Lottery I need the numbers to come up!)
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post #16 of 20 Old 05-10-2012, 08:34 PM Thread Starter
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Ok perfect. Thanks a lot. I wont buy any more fish till everything is normal. thanks a tonn. I will keep you posted on ich and tomorrow i will also give you water parameters so that you all can help me in stabilizing it.
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post #17 of 20 Old 05-10-2012, 08:35 PM
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If you do get the API Mater kit...IMPORTANT INFORMATION.

The Nitrate Test has two bottles, shake bottle #2 for 2 MINUTES prior to adding it to the test tube. The liquid separates and can give a false reading to the result if not shaken very very well before being added.

10g Fry / Hospital / QT tank (as needed)

75g Saltwater Reef, Ocellaris Clownfish, Lyretail Antias (baby), Lemon damsel, Longtail Fairy Wrasse, purple dottyback, snails, crabs and a few LPS corals.

220g Still sitting empty (come on Lottery I need the numbers to come up!)
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post #18 of 20 Old 05-12-2012, 12:56 AM Thread Starter
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Hi everyone,
I checked the water level.
pH is 7.6
ammonia is 0.5
Nitrite is 0
Nitrate is 0
temperature is 82F
I have also added aquarium salt to it.
I have also changed 50% of the water from the aquarium and add some conditioner to it.
Let me know if this is fine. I will also increase the temperature to 84F slowly.
Thanks
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post #19 of 20 Old 05-12-2012, 01:56 AM
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Change the water every day, and in this case, I may even suggest the cheater cycle in a bottle since you already have the fish in there.
The tank is just immature, and not cycled. Not an un-common mistake, I did the same thing first go around, and did it a second thinking I could cheater with not enough transferred well cycled rock to cycle a tank kept fed and wet.

As for the ich suspicion, I'm not there, and I can't see the fish, but I know when I messed up and put fish in an immature tank, they kinda looked like they had ich, mainly cuz of discoloration on the fins not being uniform, but it was not, it was just them struggling...I strongly doubt that's your problem.
Like said above, grab a test kit....But in an immature tank, the readings are going to be difficult to detect (even ammonia sometimes at this stage) The second and 3rd stage won't read at all, while somehow the tank is still killing fish in an immature tank.

Like Taz said, for now, change water every day for a while...
I tried a fish cycle in a 36 with little seeding and even though my test kit read all good on all 3 ammonia, Nitrite, and nitrate, it still took them out...Point being in an immature tank, the test does not tell the whole story quick enough in a young tank...At least in my experience.
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post #20 of 20 Old 06-22-2012, 04:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amisuraj View Post
Hi everyone,
I checked the water level.
pH is 7.6
ammonia is 0.5
Nitrite is 0
Nitrate is 0
temperature is 82F
I have also added aquarium salt to it.
I have also changed 50% of the water from the aquarium and add some conditioner to it.
Let me know if this is fine. I will also increase the temperature to 84F slowly.
Thanks
Temp needs to be at least 86 for at least 10 days.
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