Equipment placement - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources
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post #1 of 21 Old 04-03-2017, 10:23 AM Thread Starter
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Equipment placement

I have a 29 gallon tank, I am going to keep live bearers. I have an Aqueon QuietFlow 30 filter. It's sitting to the extreme left in the tank.Should it be moved? What is the best place for the heater, thermometer & plants? I already destroyed one stick on thermometer (tried to move it).
The filter is running and I have added Prime.
Do Guppies, Mollies, Swordtails or cory cats jump? I have a light just no hood.What plants will work with only room light?If I buy fake plants will I be able to later put in live ones without creating havoc for the fish?
If I use "feeder" Guppies to the tank to help cycle it am I asking for trouble when I buy the other fish or is it better to buy a live plants instead?
Any thing else I need to know?
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post #2 of 21 Old 04-03-2017, 03:50 PM
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Try the methods in my signature.


For lights I use 1/4" plastic grid (egg crate) lighting diffuser sold for dropped ceilings. And just places 6500k twisty pig tail compact fluorescent bulbs in round reflectors and stet those on the egg crate. used 3 15-19 watt over a 20g long.


You can drop food and add water through the egg crate which will also prevent jumpers.


my .02

maintain Fw and marine system with a strong emphasis on balanced, stabilized system that as much as possible are self substaning.

have maintained FW systems for up to 9 years with descendants from original fish and marine aquariums for up to 8 years.

With no water changes, untreated tap water, inexpensive lighting by first starting the tank with live plants (FW) or macro algae( marine)

see: http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/a...-build-295530/
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post #3 of 21 Old 04-03-2017, 04:35 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the answer. I looked at the egg crate diffuser and it costs as much as a hood in this area..
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post #4 of 21 Old 04-03-2017, 04:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sharmon View Post
Thanks for the answer. I looked at the egg crate diffuser and it costs as much as a hood in this area..

I guess that would be close if you're talking about a simple flat plastic hood with a light. But full built up hoods are much more expensive.


Here egg crate is ~$12 for a 4 foot x 2 foot section.


Best tank ever.


my .02

maintain Fw and marine system with a strong emphasis on balanced, stabilized system that as much as possible are self substaning.

have maintained FW systems for up to 9 years with descendants from original fish and marine aquariums for up to 8 years.

With no water changes, untreated tap water, inexpensive lighting by first starting the tank with live plants (FW) or macro algae( marine)

see: http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/a...-build-295530/
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post #5 of 21 Old 04-03-2017, 05:41 PM Thread Starter
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I also like the hood for keeping the water warmer. Our a/c goes almost year round. I live in Florida.
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post #6 of 21 Old 04-03-2017, 10:30 PM
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In the corner is where I've always placed the filters. I always aim to create a circular flow in the tank - I think it helps to keep the tank cleaner. Heater I always put near the filter that way the filter would suck in and disperse the warmer water. I don't use heaters anymore though. Thermometer in a smaller tank like that I would put on the far side from the heater so you know what the potentially coldest part of the tank is. On larger tanks people often put one at each end.

Yes they all have the potential to jump out of the tank. Corys often rush to the surface to gulp air. I would HIGHLY recommend getting a glass top. They provide a few key benefits, beyond the obvious. Glass tops virtually eliminate evaporation, and they also create an insulating buffer.

Thought I sent this earlier but clearly didn't

125 - BGK, chanchito cichlid, pictus cats, silver dollars, palmas bichir
125 - cichlids (severums, bolivian rams, chocolate), rainbows ( turquoise, red), loaches (angelicus, zebra, kuhli and horseface), plecos (BN, RL and clown), denison barbs, tiretrack eel, pearl gouramis, betta
90 - Congo tetras, african knife, upside down cats, spotted ctenopoma, kribensis, delhezzi bichir
2.5 - betta
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post #7 of 21 Old 04-05-2017, 09:52 AM Thread Starter
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Things have changed in the 30 years since my last aquarium.
The changes have me very confused
Thank you for the tip on glass tops.
With a power filter am I still going to need a pump & air stone?
If I put it on the back wall away from the filter & heater what would be the best place for the thermometer and plants?
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post #8 of 21 Old 04-05-2017, 02:56 PM
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Yeah there's not so much voodoo involved anymore . What's funny about that is that IT hasn't changed a bit - fishes' needs are exactly now what they were then.

No you will not NEED the pump or air stone, but It would only help you to leave the air stone on the far side of the tank from the filter - that will aid in circulating the water in an area of the tank that is prone to dead spots. As the bubbles rise, they pull the water up with them in the vacuum behind the bubble.

I would look to put the taller plants on the far side of the filter outflow so that they aren't beat up too bad. Short sturdy plants are good for the filter side. Also what that does is provide a high current area, as well as a low current area (far side tall plants) for the fish.

125 - BGK, chanchito cichlid, pictus cats, silver dollars, palmas bichir
125 - cichlids (severums, bolivian rams, chocolate), rainbows ( turquoise, red), loaches (angelicus, zebra, kuhli and horseface), plecos (BN, RL and clown), denison barbs, tiretrack eel, pearl gouramis, betta
90 - Congo tetras, african knife, upside down cats, spotted ctenopoma, kribensis, delhezzi bichir
2.5 - betta
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post #9 of 21 Old 04-05-2017, 03:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sharmon View Post
Things have changed in the 30 years since my last aquarium.
IMHO absolutely not for FW tanks. Sure lighting has advanced for reef tanks. but not for Fw.
Quote:
The changes have me very confused
Thank you for the tip on glass tops.
With a power filter am I still going to need a pump & air stone?
If I put it on the back wall away from the filter & heater what would be the best place for the thermometer and plants?

Yep you and everyone else.


Yet I still maintain my tanks with the same exact methods and techniques I have used since the late '70's.
Even apply most of those to marine reef tanks. With the one possible exception of the lighting advances (MH and especially led).


I consider myself fortunate to have read some Freshwater and Marine Aquariumist articles by Robert Gaser (Gasser?) in 1979. Those techniques worked, other techniques I used at the time did not, and over the years I have made minor changes to increase the clarity of the tank and to prevent the initial fish death.


still it's just my .02

maintain Fw and marine system with a strong emphasis on balanced, stabilized system that as much as possible are self substaning.

have maintained FW systems for up to 9 years with descendants from original fish and marine aquariums for up to 8 years.

With no water changes, untreated tap water, inexpensive lighting by first starting the tank with live plants (FW) or macro algae( marine)

see: http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/a...-build-295530/

Last edited by beaslbob; 04-05-2017 at 03:14 PM.
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post #10 of 21 Old 04-05-2017, 03:11 PM
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Come the think of it we had the same discussions/debates 30 years ago also.

maintain Fw and marine system with a strong emphasis on balanced, stabilized system that as much as possible are self substaning.

have maintained FW systems for up to 9 years with descendants from original fish and marine aquariums for up to 8 years.

With no water changes, untreated tap water, inexpensive lighting by first starting the tank with live plants (FW) or macro algae( marine)

see: http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/a...-build-295530/
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