Eheim Classic Canister Media question?

Rowdy

i have an Eheim Classic Canister 2213-37. and out of personal experience i would like to to know what is the best kind of Media for the filter. if you could teach me the difference between different medias that would be great to. (this is my first canister filter so i have no idea on what kind of media is the best.)

DKRST

Welcome to the forum! I have a 2215, which is similar, just slightly larger than yours. The filter can use a variety of media. I can't remember all the trademarked names, so I'll describe the various options for filter media (ordered from bottom of canister to top):

1) The ceramic "tubes" - used as the bottom (first) layer on the bottom plastic insert to trap large particles and serve as a bed for bacterial growth. Basically anything in the filter has bacteria growing on it!
2) Blue coarse filter pad - used to separate layers, trap smaller particles, and as a bacteria bed
3) Small glass/ceramic spheres (don't remember the material) - Adds a HUGE amounts of surface for bacterial growth and thus accelerates waste decomposition.
4) Blue coarse filter sponge - keeps the spheres in place and see #2 again.
5) White fine filter pad. Final layer of very fine media that traps smaller particles that may have made their way through the coarse blue pads.

Optional ideas:
- You can use 5 of the coarse blue pads (I think it's five?) instead of the ceramic tubes and spheres. Just top with the white fine pad. It works well, I've done that sometimes.
-Inexpensive option: use some generic filter floss purchased on-line and fill the canister with it. Good results, low cost of replacement!
- other less expensive option for ceramic disks/tubes. Use another manufacturers brand, other brands are cheaper!
AVOID: using the carbon pads, unless it's a new tank setup or you are trying to remove medications or other chemicals from the tank water.

Ok, that's the basics. Now the set-up usually comes with a carbon pad. IF you are using the filter on a brand new tank, follow the directions about using the carbon filter. Use it for a couple of weeks and pull it out. If you are adding the canister to an existing tank, don't use the carbon pad, keep the old filter running and wait a couple of weeks before removing the old filter. This gives time for bacteria to establish in the canister.

Cleaning: Some folks here only clean their Eheims every couple of months. I wish I could do that! I have to clean mine every couple of weeks due to plant material and slime build-ups in my intake lines and canister. You can make it a lot easier by using mesh bags to hold the ceramic media (the type of plastic mesh bags that your Christmas ham or turkey may have come in). The mesh bags make it much easier to remove the loose media when cleaning. I recommend purchasing a long brush to clean the intake lines once in a while. Put the hose quick disconnects, if you ahve them, in the middle of the hoses so each hose section is not too long to clean out using the brush!
Here is a great link for cleaning info:
Eheim Classic Canister Cleaning Instructions

Good luck and enjoy the filter!

munchie

I have a Eheim 2075 pro and decided to add carbon and anti nitrate media I had laying around for a fluval. Do you see this causing issues?

kingbri1

Any good place to source said media? Im local to San Antonio, but internet resources as well..

DKRST

Big Als and lots of other on line vendors are pretty competitive for filter media, check for sales and free shipping, combine orders to save shipping $$

DKRST

Shouldn't cause an issue, but not really needed if the tank's balanced. The carbon can be an issue if you need to medicate a tank, or even fertilize a planted tank since it will bid up all sorts of stuff!

Tazman

Walmart also sell pillow fiber which can also be used instead of filter floss, some of the larger stores also sell the filter floss usually in a massive roll for next to nothing.

With regards to filter material, it really depends on what you want to achieve with the filter? do you want mechanical to remove debris from the water, chemical to remove ammonia, nitrates or biological.

DKRST has explained what your options are well.

Rowdy

What is the best way to do a water change without causing stress on my fish. i have lots of caves so i have to move the decorations around to gravel vac. it but i dont want to cause to much stress.
thanks

DKRST

Kind of changing the topic, but here's my opinion and you probably know all this already anyway!
If you have live plants, you don't want to do a deep gravel vac. IF you have plastic plants, deep vacuum. Change the water weekly, I'd say do anywhere from 40-50%, depending on the fish load. IF water quality is kept high (by regular changes), then overall fish stress is less.
When changing, make sure the temperature is as close as you can reasonably get it to the tank's temp. Obviously, remove the chlorine! By doing a weekly change, it limits the build-up of waste products.

Otherwise, it's not overly stressing the fish to move items in the tank around, just work on one side at a time, allow the fish to use the "calm" half of the tank while you finish one side.