Eheim 2315 Filter info Needed! - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources
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post #1 of 9 Old 05-01-2010, 10:21 AM Thread Starter
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Question Eheim 2315 Filter info Needed!

I have recently acquired an eheim 2315 filter but dont know how to use it. i know how to use the taps and have got it working but dont know what to put into the filter (media , carbon etc.) I have a 60 US gallon tank with 6 ottocinclus, one shrimp, one tetra, one rainbow fish and one pencil fish. any extra info would be greatly appreciated!
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post #2 of 9 Old 05-01-2010, 11:14 AM
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I don't know about these type filters but plenty of people here do and I'm sure they'll be along shortly. I wanted to welcome you to TFK and tell you that we are glad you joined us!

If you don't stand up for something you'll fall for anything...
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post #3 of 9 Old 05-01-2010, 11:35 AM Thread Starter
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I think its quite similar to the eheim 2215 if that helps?
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post #4 of 9 Old 05-01-2010, 01:45 PM
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Here's a pic of what one looks filled with "goodies." First a tip to save you money, a much cheaper substitute for the Eheim filter material is Seachem's Matrix; you might have a hard time finding it, but it is as good as the Eheim filter media and substantially cheaper. You don't have to stick with the "recommended" Eheim filter media's, by switching or adding, you can enhance the filters operational ability. For example, I add Seachem's Purigen to the mix.


Here is a write up from a site on Seachem Matrix:

"MATRIX 500 mL- $6.99

*SeaChem Matrix™ is a high porosity bio media that provides efficient bio filtration for the removal of nitrogenous waste, including nitrates via anaerobic de-nitrification deep inside the pore complex of this product.
*Each liter of Matrix provides as much surface as 170 liters of plastic bio balls! Plastic bio-materials provide only external surface area for nitrification. Matrix has macropores that are ideally sized for the support of nitrifying and denitrifying bacteria. This allows Matrix™ to remove nitrate along with ammonia and nitrite, simultaneously and in the same filter.
*Use 500 mL of SeaChem Matrix for each 200 L (50 gallons) of water. Matrix™ may be placed in any type of filter, and is particularly effective in canister filter & wet/dry filters"

You can also use Seachem Purigen which works quite well as a water polisher, I added this to my Eheim:

* 100 ml treats 100 gallons, while 250 ml. trets 250 gallons.
* Purigen is a premium synthetic adsorbent that is unlike most other filtration products. Purigen is not a mixture of ion exchangers or adsorbents, rather a unique macro-porous synthetic polymer that removes soluble and insoluble impurities from water at a rate and capacity that exceeds all others by over 500%. Purigen controls ammonia, nitrites and often hard to control nitrates by removing nitrogenous organic waste that would otherwise release these harmful compounds, with minimal impact on trace elements.
*SeaChem Purigen polishes water to unparalleled clarity and darkens progressively as it is exhausted
*Purigen is easily renewed by treating with bleach and is designed for both marine and freshwater use."

Here is a link to various media material:

In the picture, you see two sponges, one is finer and one is courser; the sponges act as mechanical filter to keep the large crud from entering the rest of your filter, and the sponges are an excellent biological filter. If you are lazy I'd add a sponge filter to the intake pipe to reduce the amount of cleaning you'll need to do to the canister, and to add another biological filter.
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post #5 of 9 Old 05-01-2010, 01:55 PM Thread Starter
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ok thanks thats awesome, how long should i leave it between cleanings and how often should i change the media?
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post #6 of 9 Old 05-01-2010, 02:20 PM
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Your media shouldn't be changed out, but cleaned in "aquarium water" not tap water, the chlorine and other goodies in your tap water can kill the beneficial bacteria growing on your filter media. There is a debate about how often to clean a canister filter, like Eheim. Some say more frequently, others say you can go for a long time. Leaving a canister filter to "perk" (not clean it) can create a nitrate factory.

First look at water flow, put your finger in front of the output spout or watch the strength of the spray; if you find a noticeable slow down, maybe time for a mini-quick clean. By this I mean take the filter out, and check the sponges in particular to see if they have become filled with gunk (again wash in aquarium water you have harvested from a water change, or just take some water from the aquarium to clean the sponges). Then look at the substrate like material to see if it is really dirty, again clean with aquarium water.

A tip I give is to put a sponge filter over your intake tube of the Eheim. This acts as a mechanical filter keeping much of the crud out of the canister. This creates more work for you but less work in the long run. My Eheim flow will slow down; when I took it apart it was clean but my sponge filter (on the intake tube) was filthy. After I cleaned the sponge the flow was good again.

The sponge I use is the replacement sponges for this filter, so I just purchase the sponges, not the entire filter:

I personally will check my canister about every four months and do a quick cleaning. I know the external sponge on the intake tube helps keep the canister "cleaner." But I do need to clean the sponge filter on the intake tube just about once a week; this is easy, slip it off, rinse in a bowl with aquarium water, slide back on - entire time about five minutes.

The actual media should last you for years. If you add Seachem's Purigen as I do ( I highly recommend this - an excellent water polisher and its cheap), you will need to "recharge" it about every 6 months or so, instructions will come with the package on how to do it - basically, its easy to do and you use bleach. You should get about 6 to 8 times of recharging before you replace your Purigen.

Don't purchase the Carbon filter media for your Eheim, instead the Purigen is a better carbon (it isn't carbon), lasts longer and polishes which carbon doesn't do. Carbon only lasts for a short time. The carbon that came with my Eheim was only recommended for starting a new tank and to throw away after 8 - 14 days of use, which I did.

Last edited by rsn48; 05-01-2010 at 02:25 PM.
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post #7 of 9 Old 05-02-2010, 04:53 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks thats really useful, one more thing, does the red dial on the top change temperature of the heater or flow speed? I see a plus and minus sign on it but dont know what it does

thanks much appreciated! =]
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post #8 of 9 Old 05-02-2010, 08:58 AM Thread Starter
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So the purigen replaces the 'ehfisubstrat' and the matrix replaces the 'ehfimech'? What sort of sponges do you use and where do you get them form? Thanks :D
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post #9 of 9 Old 05-02-2010, 02:30 PM
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You can buy third party sponges if you are fortunate to have some good fish stores close, or you can just purchase the Eheim sponges. If you are unsure of sizing, just measure the area in your canister. Don't forget you can cut sponge filters to size (this isn't brain surgery... lol!).

A canister is just a tube with a motor, intake and output hoses, and in some of the latter Eheim's, trays to hold goodies. The fine sponge is to remove crud and act as a biological filter, and the ditto the other sponge. So you can "custom" your Eheim to what you want to accomplish. If you use a sponge on your intake tube, you might even leave out one of the sponges in the internal canister.

If I were using your Eheim, I'd put a sponge on the intake, leave out one sponge and use the finer internal sponge at the beginning of the water flow to keep out the crud (mulm), the Seachem matrix as your primary biological substrate in the filter and finish with the Purigen. Thus you have biological filtration and mechanical filtration - and add to that, chemical (but not like Activated Carbon) with a water polishing ability with the Purigen. And this cheaper than using all the Eheim products with greater abilities than using only the Eheim products.
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