pump size ?s - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources
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post #1 of 8 Old 10-30-2009, 01:25 PM Thread Starter
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pump size ?s

I have a 95 gal. malawi tank running on a rena xp3, diatom filter xl, and 9watt submersible uv sterilizer. I have been wanting to add mroe filtration with the hopes of turning off the diatom filter and adding more water movement. A current issue I battle with is phosphates in my local water supply thus creating green water that I use the uv to control. After lots of research I decided to try my hands at wet/dry sumps. I plan on making one and just have a couple questions. I currently am looking at getting a surface skimmer/siphon/overflow box set for up to 125 gal tank (hang on back). now, with that being said, what would be a "proper" return pump size. I don't want to have the too little contact time with the filtration in the sump. I saw somewhere that a guy used the rio 2100. would that be a good place to start or would I need something else? I don't plan on turning off my rena xp3, I want to add this to it.
A second question would be if there are any suggestions as to what more I can do to get my phosphates lower. they hold steady at around 2 ppm (??) which is still too much, but better than what it was.
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post #2 of 8 Old 11-01-2009, 12:21 PM Thread Starter
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Surface Skimmer Overflow System | Wet/Dry Filter Parts | Replacement Parts | Aquarium - ThatPetPlace.com

I found this and am thinking about giving it a try since it's all tied into one system hoping it'll reduce chances of floods.
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post #3 of 8 Old 11-03-2009, 07:28 AM
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Do you run your diatom filter xl 24/7?

I personally think as long as you have your normal ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels under control with your current setup there is no need to move to a sump. I personally love sumps and have ran many different kinds of sumps.

If you are just wanting to add water movement a power head is cheaper both in startup cost and operational cost. The sump will in no shape or fashion compare to a diatom filter. Diatom filters are for water polishing they are not really for biological filtration or water movement. Also they are only designed to be running like 8 - 12 hours a week.

There are chemical ways to remove phospates but you will run into high cost. you might look into something called an algae scrubber.
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post #4 of 8 Old 11-03-2009, 12:03 PM Thread Starter
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yes, I run my diatom 24/7. when i turn it off, it goes right back to the original way it was that caused me to get the diatom. I don't want to put more chemicals than needed into my tank. there isn't too much algae on my tank side or ornaments, my cichlids eat most of it, but they can't do anything about the green water that results from my phosphates....and the tank isn't in direct sunlight (barely and sunlight) and I only have my lights on for about 4-6 hrs. at night when I get off of work. The diatom filter is a pia to do maint. by myself and i rarely get the time with my husband to do it together, so that's another reason I want to take it off. If I go to a sump and still run the canister then I am going to use my canister as a polishing filter and fill it with polishing pads and the mechanical filtering stuff.
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post #5 of 8 Old 11-04-2009, 07:50 AM
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So the real reason is green water?

Sell the Diatom and buy a UV unit. the uv will kill the algea and keep it from turning the water green. The only other option is plant life be it normal plants or an algae scrubber.
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post #6 of 8 Old 11-04-2009, 01:13 PM Thread Starter
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No, green water is not the real reason, I don't have green water. I have a 9 watt uv sterilizer. My local water supply has high phosphates which makes it easy for me to get green water. I've got my levels as low as I have ever had them and I maintain it there, but I do want to turn off the diatom filfter and repalce it with somethign that will serve a purpose other than moving water. since when is too much filtration a bad thing? I only have lotus bubls due to my cichlids killing off majority of my other plants I've put in the tank.

I'm also just looking for somethig that will benefit me in the process. a wet/dry will give me a place to hide my heaters and uv sterillizer (it's submersible) and maint. will be easy on it since it's not out of my reach. I'm on 5ft. and using a chair only goes so far with maint. I have my husband help me when we have time off together but that is rare due to our work scheduals and we really don't like to do tank cleaning during that rare time. thus another reason for me to turn of my diatom. I can't keep up on the maint. on it by myself.
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post #7 of 8 Old 11-05-2009, 11:30 AM
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I like the design of that overflow box. It definitely takes the whole power outage problem into consideration. I ran a CPR CS-90 Overflow with aqualifter pump on my 46 gallon reef tank, and never had a flood. It was the same basic idea. I moved to a 150 gallon reef ready tank and am definitely happy with that!!!

Nothing good happens fast in an Aquarium

My 30 Gallon Long Marine Tank
My son's 20 gallon FW Community
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post #8 of 8 Old 11-05-2009, 10:51 PM Thread Starter
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thank you! I read the reviews and most of them were about the same but not many had it hoooked up to a wet/dry kit that wasn't theirs. so that really helps in my decision.
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