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Lowest cost and easiest way to eliminate green hair, bubble, turf and slime algae

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Lowest cost and easiest way to eliminate green hair, bubble, turf and slime algae
Old 07-24-2012, 10:32 PM   #11
 
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“MorganAtlanta” on the scrubber site;











“Octavia-vrs” on the UR site:







“Othello” on the scrubber site:









“OwenReefin” on the PNWMAS site:







“Pecker115” on the UR site:







"Cermet" on the AC site:





“Promazine” on the UR site:
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Old 07-24-2012, 10:32 PM   #12
 
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"Bobba" on the scrubber site:











“Reefnjunkie” on the PNWMAS site:









“RkyRickstr” on the scrubber site:











“Ruddybop” on the MFK site:




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Old 07-24-2012, 10:33 PM   #13
 
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“Smann” on the PNWMAS site:





“Strayrex” on the UR site:







“Swhite” on the scrubber site:













“Tonymar” on the scrubber site:




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Old 07-25-2012, 12:29 AM   #14
 
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Well, damn! This is great! If i start to have a problem, i know exactly what to do! =]=]
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Old 08-03-2012, 11:11 PM   #15
 
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Old 08-20-2012, 02:56 PM   #16
 
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Important videos to help you understand algae filtering...

- Ocean Productivity
- Photosynthesis part 1
- Food Chains vs. Food Webs
- Nutrients and Primary Production
- Chlorophyll
- Zooplankton and Primary Production
- Bacteria
- Food Webs
- Microbial Food Web
- Trophic Pyramids
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Old 09-02-2012, 03:00 PM   #17
 
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Old 09-04-2012, 06:48 PM   #18
 
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There is a cheaper option wilth less work required. Bonded filter stuff is ultra cheap and goes a long way. When added to the output of a filter it will reduce surface agitation. It will fray off if exposed to high water flow but the fall coming out of a hob filter is spread out thereby not strong enough. Wrapped on the output of a canister or powerhead is a different story, the force will slowly tear a hole through it in 24 hours or less. I imagine scotchbrite pads would work as well, and be much stronger, just make sure they don't contain chemicals or soap.
There is another benefit here, when you use this filter stuff or anything else of a similar nature and attach it to the output of any filter in the effort to reduce surface agitation as most filter outputs are at the top of the tank and near the lights these things will be algea magnets. Let the algea grow here instead of elsewhere in the tank then clean it off or trash it as neede
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Old 09-06-2012, 01:25 PM   #19
 
Some more successes from waterfall scrubbers:

Damon on the IM site: "I have been completely skimmer less for over a month now, and my ats has brought my nitrates from off the chart above 50ppm and with yesterday's test it has come down to 5 on the high end with color choosing(can't wait for a Hanna to make a nitrate). I am extremely happy with my ats as it is now, but I do believe I'm going to build a second one next to it. I built this size for a small (75-90g heavy bioload), but I'm going to add a second one that will be a more professional build quality now that I have figured out how I want it to run. I still love the fact that I have dropped $25 a month in electricity, haven't done a water change in a month while still dropping nitrates and getting amazing coral growth. The best part is I am making these to utilize my overflow drains, so in essence I adding a more efficient form of filtration without adding any heat or extra electricity. I can't report on long term results as I've only been running an ats since last fall. But from where my tank was to where it is now is enough for me to jump ship, lol."

Kerry on the scrubber site: "I was hard for me to believe that this device worked. It took about a year before I built one and now I wish I knew about this years ago. Who would have thought algae would provide so much success? I even have one on my 150G FW Jack Dempsey tank as well. And yes, its so nice not to have a skimmer anymore!!!!"

Reefkeeper2 on the RC site: "I run a skimmer, biopellets and an ATS. The skimmer and the pellets worked well keeping nitrates at 0, but there was room for improvement with phosphate control. I tried GFO, and lanthanum. My sps do not like the GFO. I got STN often when I changed it out. The lanthanum worked, but was very labor intensive and so unpractical. The ATS did the trick nicely. I have been a reefer for a very long time. I think I have tried every method of nutrient control thought up by anyone. I really enjoy trying out new ideas and trying to improve on old ones. I have to say that this combination has worked the best of all I have tried over the years."

N728NY on the RC site: "Just chiming in to say I really hope this thread keeps going! Lots of good info. I'm still pretty new to keeping a reef tank. I have been running a scrubber with my skimmer for the past three months. Before then I could never get my nitrates below 15, and since I added my scrubber I never been able to detect any nitrates, even after feeding twice as much. I know with my 75 gallon set up, I made my scrubber slightly over sized (sized for 100 gallons) and I dump huge amounts of pellets and frozen shrimp in my tank on top of spot feeding my corals on a regular basis and I still have yet to register any nitrates on my test kit. Being that I'm still new I still haven't built up the courage to unplug the skimmer yet. I may try it once I know for sure my scrubber is fully matured, got plenty of ro water made up and salt ready just in case I need to do an emergency water change lol. I still have a clump of cheato left that I suppose would be good back up if the scrubber couldn't keep up. The cheato doesn't really grow very much right now because of the scrubber. I love these scrubbers, I'm so glad I took the time to read "both sides" of the arguments on them to find out the facts about them."

Kentth on the scrubber site: "overall the tank is much healthier, a lot of feather dusters, coming out of the rocks, yellow sponges, other opaque sponges. big thing is no water changes for over 8 months, almost no silt, it has really cut my maintenance"

Langtudatinh01 on the RC site: "i completely redo my 40B with the ATS from beginning, i barely see much algae on my display tank but i now have a mature ATS. i relocated all my fish and add another one without any issue. the dead rocks i use bleach quite a lot of phosphate back into the water, but the ATS has handle the issue like a cham. i do not see much algae on my display. everything is green like grass down at the ATS. i am very happy so far.'

Bicolour on the MFUK site: "quick update, so my ats has been running since [6 weeks ago] and i gotta say all the algea in my tank and on the sand has gone, wow. gotta say it was well worth doing. i dont monitor growth at the moment but this is something i will be doing in the future, my set up was basic costing very little as i wanted to try this before i really looked into the idea. very impressed and can only say if you got space look into it"

Rysher on the RC site: "i have a 6x9 screen, 1 inch is submerged so only 6x8 is really used, i also have a 40b. it has been my only form of filtration ever since i started the tank [months ago], i feed almost 2 cubes a day, only have 2 fishes but u cant see any algae on my DT, almost non existent film algae too, i clean my DT glass maybe once a week."

Packman90 on the RC site: "I have a 72 Gallon bow front and until a couple of months ago I was going to throw my tank away and give up on saltwater tanks all together. I was brand new, took a lot of advice, started my system and watched as it became more and more green, until i found out about scrubbers. I lost all of the coral frags I bought, about $400.00 worth, and just felt that I would never get it. I have it now, and just bought my first new frags in over 8 months. Thanks to all of you scrubbers out there who showed me the way. Here is the tank after the scrubber did it's magic. this took a total of 1 month for it to clear up, and I did not remove any of the algae, it just melted a way. Only problem I have is that i have some sea grass that is melting away as well and cheto in my sump is also slowly dieing."
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Old 09-23-2012, 02:49 PM   #20
 
Here are the requirements for building a UAS.

Screen material:

1)
Use plastic canvas as the algae screen. Remember to roughen it up properly using a wood saw or hole saw. You can get plastic canvas at craft store (under sewing section) or sewing store or online at places like Everything Plastic Canvas Home Page or ebay. Screen should look like this:




Lighting

2)
The lighting needs to be 1 watt per square inch (6.25 square cm) of screen material. A 3 by 4 inch screen is 12 square inches not 24. Make sure you have enough wattage and use a reflector if the light doesnot focus on screen. For fluorescent bulbs, it needs to have a spectrum of 2700k-3000k. For LEDs, it needs to be red 660nm. You can cut the wattage in half if you are using LED lights. In order for algae to grow, make sure that the light is on for 18 hours a day. Here are some bulbs and reflector type:




Bubbles:

3)
The bubbles need to be rapid and large and distributed through out the screen evenly for algae to grow. The best way to do this is by slicing the air tubing. Make sure the air pump is good so that the bubbles can constantly flow across the screen for 24 hours a day. This is why you need bubbles:

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algae, ats, nitrate, phosphate, uas

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