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DIY Nitrate Filter

This is a discussion on DIY Nitrate Filter within the DIY Aquarium forums, part of the TFK Resources category; --> Originally Posted by zof I think it was sarcastic, well I hope so cause I have about 200 gallons of media in my 90 ...

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Old 03-06-2012, 10:53 PM   #61
 
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Originally Posted by zof View Post
I think it was sarcastic, well I hope so cause I have about 200 gallons of media in my 90 gallon setup and I actually have some matrix in there.
Say what? So how do you get 200 gallons of media in a 90 gallon tank?... and why would you want to?
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Old 03-07-2012, 07:01 PM   #62
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Lol! not actually volume of filter material, just its filtration capacity.
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Old 03-07-2012, 11:24 PM   #63
 
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the same link as i posted back in this thread. The guy had too much anaerobic media and the filter was producing h2s. ill find the link tomorrow
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Old 03-08-2012, 07:09 AM   #64
 
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Lol! not actually volume of filter material, just its filtration capacity.
Ah, okay, so yer not a wizard after all!
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Old 03-08-2012, 07:29 AM   #65
 
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the same link as i posted back in this thread. The guy had too much anaerobic media and the filter was producing h2s. ill find the link tomorrow
Found it:
Here's Nevin pointing to the third denitrifier that he built. This denitrifier is again contained in a 5-gallon plastic utility bucket. The water is pumped from the system into the bottom of the bucket and flows upwards through the denitrifying media. Near the top of the bucket is a threaded plastic L-fitting that screws into the bucket and connects to a piece of clear plastic tubing that returns the water to the system. This denitrifier is now working too well and removing all the nitrates, which may force some bacteria to use sulfates and produce hydrogen sulfide. When Tom inspected the system, he noticed a smell that my be partially hydrogen sulfide. The solution may be to remove some of the denitrifying media in the bucket. Incidentally, on the left in this photo is a commercial bio-wheel filter.

Tom and Nevin Bailey (I presume no relation!) also claim that we want to maintain 20-40ppm nitrates in the system. This seems curious to me since in nature, unless polluted, fresh water has little/no nitrates. I wonder why would we want 20-40ppm nitrates in out tanks when we've all heard <20ppm (lower the better) is best?

I've studied many denitrator systems and this is the only place I've seen with such a claim or caution. I am uncertain what happens with the rise and fall of nutrients and/or available nitrates. I know that hydrogen sulfide can be created in deep substrates if/when detritus gets down there, however, it's presumed that this typically does not cause harm in the aquarium. Also, in the case of this filter, since the discharge is above the aquarium water level, any gases should release before re-entering the tank.
I/we can't measure sulfides, so I don't know how we could possibly judge any media volume relativity.
I'm thinking I/we just move forward and see how it goes.

I'm hopeful I'll receive the Nitrate Remover and API filter today as it reached my local post office yesterday. I have a 15g bottled water change ready and will do that just before adding the nitrate remover product. I'll also give the filter another shot of Stability.

Last edited by AbbeysDad; 03-08-2012 at 07:45 AM..
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Old 03-08-2012, 10:28 AM   #66
 
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youre going to take apart the filter again? fiddlesticks lol let her ride!

If you let h2s off gas into the room its just as bad for you as it is for fish! h2s is a fairly nasty gas that in any concentration will cause you issues. From wiki: "Hydrogen sulfide is a highly toxic and flammable gas (flammable range: 4.3–46%). Being heavier than air, it tends to accumulate at the bottom of poorly ventilated spaces. Although very pungent at first, it quickly deadens the sense of smell, so potential victims may be unaware of its presence until it is too late. For safe handling procedures, a hydrogen sulfide material safety data sheet (MSDS) should be consulted". Its nasty nasty stuff, I cant imagine what it would do to your poor fish.

Im almost thinking thats why they aim for 20ppm. Most people agree that 20ppm nitrates arent terrible for the fish, yet 0ppm could be in the danger zone for producing h2s. Just food for thought. Id rather have a few nitrates, personally. I am all for sticking to your guns and going forward, I just feel that it wouldnt be prudent to ignore the potential dangers (to your fish, if nothing else) of creating a 0 nitrate environment.

juuuuust saying. $.02
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Old 03-08-2012, 03:29 PM   #67
 
From the Seachem Website for Stability:

The bacteria strains in Stability® have been in development for over a decade. The necessary conditions for growth of our bacterial strains encompass a very broad range. When other bacteria begin to die off (usually from high organic loads caused by the undetected death of an organism), Stability® simply works harder and grows faster! The strains function in fresh or saltwater. Stability® contains both nitrifying and denitrifying bacteria, a blend found in no other product. Additionally, Stability® contains facultative bacterial strains which are able to adapt to either aerobic or anaerobic conditions. The bacteria in Stability® are non-sulfur fixing, another innovation in the industry. Most other bacterial supplements will form toxic hydrogen sulfide under the proper conditions. Stability® will not, ever.

Set fears aside weedhopper!

NO I did not take the DIY filter apart.
My order arrived. I did a 15g partial water change and installed 1 of the Fluval Lab Series Nitrate Remover in the AquaClear 70 filter. I added another 6 capfuls of stability along with some filter sponge squeezings direct into the DIY filter inlet tube.

I put together and setup the API Tap Water filter to make some DI water for the next water change. Need to study up to see if I need to add electro-right and/or pH adjuster that came with the filter.

I'll do a nitrite test later or tomorrow and report back.
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Old 03-08-2012, 04:04 PM   #68
 
Correction: In the last sentence of my previous post I wrote that I would test nitrites when of course I meant nitrAtes.
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Old 03-09-2012, 04:33 PM   #69
 
Update: 24 hours after doing the 15g (bottled) water change and adding the Fluval Nitrate Remover, the tank nitrates have stabilized at around 20~ppm!
I removed the nitrate remover and have started the regeneration (salt water bath) process. I will regenerate for 24-48 hours. It will be interesting to see what happens to tank nitrates during this period.
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Old 03-11-2012, 11:25 PM   #70
 
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sorry I havnt been following, been a crazy busy week.

this is certainly exciting news. How does the fluval stuff come? in a pillow? And did you recharge it just because or was it exhausted after 24 hours? Was that nitrate reading from the outflow of your filter or just the aquarium? So many questions. So little typing space.
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