Sponges putting toxins in water? - Page 2 - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources
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post #11 of 23 Old 02-26-2009, 08:06 AM
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Well, birdsnest are more of the difficult SPS to keep, and if you're not having any issues with that guy, i'd say that your water parameters are fine.

What are you lighting this thing with? i need wattage, Kelvin Degree and type of bulb(MH, t5, PC, ect)

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post #12 of 23 Old 02-26-2009, 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by onefish2fish View Post
dont think i saw but are you protein skimming and what brand/model skimmer?

he mentioned that he's got an octopus skimmer, thats the brand anyways, they've got a bunch of different models though. I had an Octopus NW 150 on my 90 gal for the first year or so, and it was pretty decent. I don't have any real complaints about it, other than the little plastic piece that you connect the air line to on the pump broke off, so I had to "shove" it in, and re-do it every week as it would either wiggle loose, or get salt creep inside it blocking the air.

There are supposedly a variety of mods you can do to it, like the mesh mod on the needle wheel, boring out some of the piping to increase water flow, and even attaching a larger diameter air hose for more air. I never tried any though. I might do it now, if I get bored some day, since I've replaced that skimmer and its now collecting dust lol.

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post #13 of 23 Old 02-26-2009, 11:24 AM
Originally Posted by bm5180 View Post
Yea, I wish I could fill it up quickly, too bad these corals seem to keep getting more and more expensive. I think you are correct on everything except the devils hand (top right under the pump). That is actually a branching monti. That is one of the pieces I just received from an on line order. I'm a little dissapointed in that one, I saw an actual picture of it when ordering, and it was deep blue, almost purple. You said it was closed. When it opens (if it opens), can I expect to see a brighter color? I'm also only running my halides for 6 hours a day right now, down from 8. I read to drop the time some when you are acclimating new corals. I'm going to increase by 1 hour today, maybe with additional light they will open up.

Dont know what kind of MH bulb, but seen SPS to gain better(?) coloration or loose its beautiful colors as symbiotic algae are dispelled. Shipping have caused such loss of symbiotic algae. Dont worry, it can bounce back to even better colors. It could also have shown better colors under different/more lighting when pic was taken.
Ive learned from experience that acclimating to light is another important issue with newly arrived corals out of box. Hope things perk up soon. Any Act lighting on your tank?
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post #14 of 23 Old 02-26-2009, 12:15 PM Thread Starter
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Here are some pics of my sump and lighting. The halide bulbs are Hamilton 250W 1400K. I switched from 10,000k about two months ago. The T5 bulbs are 1 blue actinic and 1 daylight (I'm thinking about going to two actinic for more blue). I've been running the T5's for 11 hours a day, and the halides for 7 hours a day. I also have LED moon lights that run counter to the T5's. Any thoughts on maybe increasing the light time? I've run into more alge growing the longer I run the lights. This schedule seems a to keep the alge in check.

How about feeding, I'm curious to hear what others are doing. For the seven fish I have in the tank, I've been feeding 1 cube of either brine, mysis, or bloodworms (alternating) per day (when I get home at 5 or so), then a couple of good pinches of pellets or flake prior to the lights going out. For corals, I have DT's, coral frenzy, and invert food, and I'll add a squirt of one every couple of days. About twice a week, I like to turn off the main pump, keep the powerheads flowing, and target feed the corals 1 cube of frozen coral food, mixed with DT's. Then I leave the main pump off for 30 minutes or so, so all the food says circulating in the tank. A local fish store employee gave me this advice. Am I overdoing the feeding? I've read several sources say feed as much as you can without messing up the water.

The protein skimmer is an octupus brand, not sure on the model. I can tell you it works great. I have to emply the collection cup at least every other day, it is full of thick green sludge.

Thanks for the feedback....
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post #15 of 23 Old 02-26-2009, 01:26 PM
Only one halides for 90G? Personally, always used two halides for 48" x 18" 20" or higher tank along with PC/Fluo Day/Act lighting. With my set up (3 different type of light), Only used MH for 4-6 hrs/day trying to simulate sun. Seems everything is in orde. Nice and Neat! Skimmer dong its duty and Macros.
What are your dimensions?
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post #16 of 23 Old 02-26-2009, 05:22 PM Thread Starter
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Two halides. That picture only shows the left side, but right side has one also.
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post #17 of 23 Old 02-26-2009, 06:16 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, back home from work today, and things are taking another downturn. I've taken some close ups of the corals that are not looking good. The starburst has what looks like a dead spot in the middle of it, with the polyps closing up again. The small acro frags I just got are fading, with no polyp extension. Any suggestions? Like I said earlier, the starburst has been in the tank for months now, and was doing great, you can see how it has spread over the rock. Now, it does not look so good.

The copper suggestion was one I had not thought of. I'm not sure why copper would be present now, but it may be something worth testing for.
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post #18 of 23 Old 02-26-2009, 08:22 PM
Although not extended, at least SPS are not showing any odd symptoms such as RTN which is good news. As far as Cu, it wont hurt to test whatever we can test for eventhough I doubt it but can be eliminated as possible culpit once tested.
Was your calcium level always around 420?
One more question, sorry trying to understand the situation to see if I can assit. the coral left of frag on 2nd pic. i tjhought it was caulastrea but it looks more like Tubastrea although seen red/orange and black but not green. Is it a Tubastrea and if it is are you target feeding? Maybe something to do w/ target feeding. Exposure to Concentrated food/addtives have caused certain corals/polyps to breaksown in similar fashion.

If concerned with possible toxin by red sponges, temporarily hold in separate container w/ Lr and circulation , possible heater? Thus in time can find out if the sponges were the culpit. Blue sponges/ Red/ ball sponges never have cause such problem , at least in my experiences.
I wish I had more accurate answers for you.

Last edited by cerianthus; 02-26-2009 at 08:26 PM.
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post #19 of 23 Old 02-27-2009, 05:49 PM Thread Starter
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You are correct, it is a Tubastrea. Sorry, I'm still learning the scientific names for everything, I've been going by sun coral. I feed that guy mysis shrimp or blood worms twice a week (at night when it opens). I target feed almost an entire cube at a time with a syringe, and it takes it all down.

You mentioned concentrated feeding can be harmful. When I target feed DT's directly on the corals, could this be harmful?

This may be a clue. Someone asked if my calcium has always been 420. For the longest time, I was only adding Purple Up, and no alk. additive. So the first few times I started testing for calcium and alk., calcium was around 500, and Alk. was at 7 (dKH). I have since learned the two need to be in ratio to one another. So after I got the Alk. up to 9, and calcium down to 420, I now dose with B-Ionic two part calc/alk additive. This seems to be maintaining the levels where they are, this has been for about two months now.
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post #20 of 23 Old 02-28-2009, 12:42 AM
If your corals were doing better at higher Ca of 500, why not gradually increase the Ca level back to where it used to be. Does growth of coralline better before or after the Ca changes? I am from old school. If it is not broken, dont fix! If pH was stable before even at higher Ca level, why boost the alk?
Excuse my absent mind,not used to abbrev. refresh me What DT is?
I do understand and practiced target feeding Tub/sun coral (your is not sun coral. It is Nuclear Green Coral,lol), but have had issues when done with other non-photo coral such as Dendronephthea, etc and on GSP/palys/zoa. Had better results when injected to tank and dispersed. Let them find the way to catch their prey as in nature along with photosynthesis performed by its symiotic algae, zooxanthellae. i came to conclusion that exposure to concentrated food/sediment may have caused similar mishaprs with gsp o rits relatives.
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