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bubble anemone

This is a discussion on bubble anemone within the Coral and Reef Creatures forums, part of the Advanced Saltwater Discussion category; --> all levels look good, as before 2 corals hammerhead and frogspawn coral, no other anemones. also one other thing i see this white film ...

Old 06-06-2008, 06:49 AM   #21
all levels look good, as before
2 corals hammerhead and frogspawn coral, no other anemones.

also one other thing i see this white film on top of the water.
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Old 06-06-2008, 11:20 AM   #22
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Wow, that BTA does look great! Lovely bubble tips! Some BTA's, like mine only develop the bubbles when before the lights come on etc, wish mine had them all the time! My nem's getting massive now, about 10 inches open all the way..maybe a bit more on a good day!
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Old 06-06-2008, 12:49 PM   #23
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How often are you feeding it and what foods have you offered it? Some anemones can be quite fussy about what they like for food.

There is also the passing waste part of things... an anemone still needs to do that and won't eat during that time. They can actually look almost like they're turning inside out while passing waste, and then all of a sudden they are back to normal again.

How long has your anemone been this way?

Also, wanted to mention... telling us that "all levels look good" really doesn't tell us anything. Even the slightest shift somewhere can be an indication of a problem, or explain something that is happening.
If you can post current results for the things I asked about, that would help us to help you a lot more and a lot faster.
One thing about water quality that most people don't seem to understand is that it is ever changing. No matter how stable a tank is, the water params will constantly fluctuate. From night to day they are different... one hour at a time something changes. That is why it is so important to continue testing frequently when something seems "off" or regularly even once the tank is stable. For someone to help, we have to know those numbers.
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Old 06-06-2008, 12:55 PM   #24
I will give you exact readings after I get back from work, The anemone has not eaten for about a 10 days, I feed it dry jumbo Krill, tried offering food twice a week, it was fine for about 4 weeks always taking it. when it stopped taking in food it would hold on to it and 15 minutes later release it. Ever since it stoped eating I thought the same thing, maybe it is passing waste so I took the food out and tried 2 days later.
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Old 06-06-2008, 01:26 PM   #25
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I will wait until I see the numbers from the water params before I suggest anything in this situation. It sounds to me as if your anemone is definately having a problem, the trick is going to be in finding out exactly what is causing it so we can fix it. I don't like to treat symptoms because that is dangerous...
A few more questions for you quick
How often are you doing water changes? How much water each time?
How often do you perform just "top off's" with fresh water? When were the last water change and "top off" performed?
Is there a skimmer?

Forgive me if some of this information was already given, but this thread has grown quite long and I currently don't have the time to read back through it from the beginning. I will be away from the computer for most of this afternoon and evening, but I will check back in here later tonight when I return home.
Hang in there...
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Old 06-09-2008, 12:58 PM   #26
Bettababy, I am sorry I did not write you any earlier, I got home on friday and my anemone was dead, it's foot has come loose, I was afraid it would contaminate my tank so I am sorry to say I got rid of it.
Checked water paremeters.
amonia, nitrite, nitrate at 0
ph 8.4
calcium 440
salinity 1.024
I am doing weekly water changes about 5 gal mixed 3 days or more in advance (power head and heater inside)
Top off's are done dayly r/o water
last time water change was done last sunday
top off was done on thursday
I did a water change on Friday after I removed the anemone.

The only thing that I think could have caused this would by my temperature, I run central a/c but when i got home my aquarium was at 80 deg. We had a lot of hot weather last week, 102 on friday.
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Old 06-09-2008, 01:20 PM   #27
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I will have to agree with you that is is very possible the temp change played a large part. While 80 is quite warm for any anemone I am aware of, it would more be the rapid change in temp that caused harm.

In the future, you might want to consider a chiller for that tank. Anyone living in a warm climate should consider one, and anyone who is working with halide lighting, especially over a smaller tank. Having air conditioning isn't usually considered a safe way to maintain water temp within a safe range for a marine tank. Even in office buildings where air conditioning is run regularly will have problems maintaining temp... that is the #1 problem I have now with my 175 saltwater account. It's in a newspaper printing office, and they refuse to spend the money on a chiller. I am not able to keep much for inverts in their tank because of the temp fluctuations which can often run 85 - 90 in the summer. The fish are strong enough to handle it, but most inverts just can't survive something like that.

Maybe there is something you can find instead of an anemone for your tank if a chiller is out of the question? Otherwise, try checking Ebay for an aquarium chiller, see what you can find. Maybe others here will have other suggestions on where to find a cheaper one that is still reliable.
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Old 06-10-2008, 07:05 AM   #28
Thank you bettababy, you have been a great help, my next purchase would be a chiller then.
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Old 06-10-2008, 01:39 PM   #29
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You're welcome. Make sure you shop around before you spend any money. There are a good number of options and I'd hate to see you spend more than you have to. Also watch your electric bill once you start using it. Unfortunately, this is an expensive hobby in more ways than one. Running a chiller will put a bit of drain on your electric bill. Most people who don't have a severe problem will simply work with animals that can handle the situation, like my account has been doing. Many others have been known to go back to freshwater due to the expense. Unfortunately the climate in which we live will dictate a lot of what we can do unless we have deep enough pockets to get around the issues.

Another thing to watch is your lighting. Watch for temp fluctuations between on and off times. Maybe look into more ventilation that way as well. Sometimes changing a light fixture can make a huge difference. T5 fixtures are good if you're trying to avoid heat, provided the tank isn't extremely deep and isn't holding animals who are extremely sensitive to light output in a deep tank. Shelves build into the rock structure to bring animals closer to the light source can also help to reduce the need for extremely high lighting, or for simply allowing a conversion to T5.

There are also ways to ventilate the tank without a chiller if the problem is mild and you are aware it is coming. For example, if there is a heat wave in the weather forecast for the coming week, open your cover on the tank and lay a piece of fabric screening over the opening, to allow air circulation at the surface. Adding a small powerhead so that the output flow breaks the surface of the water will also cool temps, especially if the tank is open top. I, personally, always have either a screen top or open top tank running during the summer to keep temp down. This also gives you the ability to turn it off again when it isn't needed, or to cover the tank again.

A chiller is going to be the most surefire way to avoid a problem, so if the expense isn't too much of a burden, it's going to be the safest and most effective way to keep that tank at a constant or near constant temp.

One last thought for you, then I'll leave you to sort it all out. Watch the species of anemone you are keeping. Some anemones can handle warmer temps than others, and providing it's not a carnivorous anemone, like the tube anemones, a clownfish will usually host in most types if it is all they have available. While the clowns do tend to have some preference, anything preferring the bubble anemone can sometimes be happy with a haitian condylactus (which can withstand warmer temps) and even some types of corals, such as a torch coral, for a substitute. I have already dealt with clowns who have hosted in long tenticle plate corals.

I've worked a lot with anemones over the years, so if you have any other questions, feel free to ask away.
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