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This is a discussion on In trouble within the Cichlids forums, part of the Freshwater and Tropical Fish category; --> Originally Posted by mrdemin Well, the ich is getting worse I think... Should I treat them or just let it multiply? I'm not sure ...

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Old 10-12-2009, 03:56 PM   #21
 
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Originally Posted by mrdemin View Post
Well, the ich is getting worse I think... Should I treat them or just let it multiply? I'm not sure how you know when the cycle is complete, someone mentioned when the nitrites and ammonia are down for at least 5 days... I do not think the fish will wait that long
I don't like advising medications under your circumstances. However, if this were my tank, seriously--I would treat it with Aquari-Sol and carefully monitor things, being ready to do partial water changes daily.

The reason I use Aquari-Sol is that in my experience it causes the least stress to the fish in the tank. I have never raised the temperature as they recommend, simply because the fish are already under stress and I have some fish that do not tolerate high temperatures that well and adding more stress doesn't make much sense. But if your fish can tolerate it, raising the temp is a way of speeding up the ich cycle.

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Old 10-13-2009, 09:13 PM   #22
 
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I'm just about ready to pull my hair out... I did a water change 2 days ago... I added 2.5ml of "Prime" (my whole tank is only 30g). My nitrates are now up to about 7.5ppm, my pH is still ~7.2, my nitrites are up to 0.5ppm!!!! and my ammonia is up to about 0.25-0.5ppm. I have only 4 tetras left, what every I feed them they gobble up quick. Is this all happening because of the cycle? I wouldnt think that the tests should get this high even during a cycle, but hey what do I know.
Also, my new heater is all bubbly... I took it out, wiped it with a towel and put it back in. A little while later its all in bubbles again!!!
Also, my plants are either dying or being eaten. I see the fish nibble on them sometimes but dont think they do this much damage. Can I add more prime? Do another water change? Or this is all my cycke and I should just live with it and hope the fish make it through?

Oh, I noticed some sort of stains on the inside of the aquarium, they were def not there before... Sorta greenish or greyish spots. I think they are starting to cover the plant leaves as well. And its a possibility the fish are eating it.

Is it ok if I wipe the walls of the aquarium, or will I be removing the "good" bacteria?

Last edited by mrdemin; 10-13-2009 at 09:23 PM..
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Old 10-14-2009, 03:40 PM   #23
 
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Originally Posted by mrdemin View Post
I'm just about ready to pull my hair out... I did a water change 2 days ago... I added 2.5ml of "Prime" (my whole tank is only 30g). My nitrates are now up to about 7.5ppm, my pH is still ~7.2, my nitrites are up to 0.5ppm!!!! and my ammonia is up to about 0.25-0.5ppm. I have only 4 tetras left, what every I feed them they gobble up quick. Is this all happening because of the cycle? I wouldnt think that the tests should get this high even during a cycle, but hey what do I know.
Also, my new heater is all bubbly... I took it out, wiped it with a towel and put it back in. A little while later its all in bubbles again!!!
Also, my plants are either dying or being eaten. I see the fish nibble on them sometimes but dont think they do this much damage. Can I add more prime? Do another water change? Or this is all my cycke and I should just live with it and hope the fish make it through?

Oh, I noticed some sort of stains on the inside of the aquarium, they were def not there before... Sorta greenish or greyish spots. I think they are starting to cover the plant leaves as well. And its a possibility the fish are eating it.

Is it ok if I wipe the walls of the aquarium, or will I be removing the "good" bacteria?
To respond as best I can to your points in reverse order:

Don't wipe or clean any interior surfaces; bacteria are (hopefully) colonizing all surfaces under water. The green stains sound like algae; get used to it, all tanks have it to some degree. Some fish do like to browse (sometimes eat) it for food. Usually in new tanks the first algae ("diatoms" actually) is brown. No worry over this, it can be dealt with later if it becomes too much.

Don't know what type of plants you have, but several things cold cause what you see. Plants need to adjust to different water parameters just like fish, and sometimes existing leaves will die off. If new leaves show signs of appearing, that's OK. Another option is not sufficient nutrients, and/or light. As you have green algae, I'd assume the light is sufficient.

Tank cycling takes time, anywhere from 2 to 8 weeks normally, the variable for this are water parameters, temp, the fish, plants, and whatever may be in the tap water (minerals, metals, ammonia, nitrate...all are possible). The readings you give are not bad actually considering this is in the cycling stage. Nitrates is not an issue at all up to 20ppm, and even up to 40ppm at this stage. Once the tank is biologically established, the nitrates will level off usually under 40ppm and stay there with weekly partial water changes and if plants are growing, nitrates will be even less, under 20ppm. Nitrite and ammonia is not that high for the cycle.

Use Prime with water changes, and daily changes of 30% won't hurt anything; syphon water from the top to avoid disturbing the substrate where the bacteria are living.

If 1077 sees this he may have something to add. Just have patience, nature takes her time.

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Old 10-15-2009, 03:50 AM   #24
 
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Sounds normal to me for a maturing or (cycling) tank. Daily 20 to 25 percent water changes may be necessary IF levels you posted rise any higher. Make sure no one else is feeding the fish.Tank will mature and fish will survive if not overfed and water changes take place to keep ammonia and nitrites in check.
Don't add any more fish until the tank has matured.
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Old 10-15-2009, 11:01 AM   #25
 
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Byron & 1077 have given excellent advice based on solid experience. If it was my tank (and it's not) I'd perform daily water changes (using Prime) if the water tests indicated high levels of ammonia/nitrIte/nitrAte, such as you are seeing. When I set up my very first tank I tested the water daily as it was going though its cycle. There were times I was doing daily water changes for seven days in a row. Patience & water changes (and not adding any new fish nor overfeeding) are the key here.
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Old 10-15-2009, 04:55 PM   #26
 
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Yes they are both very very helpful and I am taking their advice very seriously and have done just about everything they've recommended, and I really thank them for that!!!
It looks like my ammonia is coming down a little, and my nitrites are going up. I did another pwc today.
I thought the ich was gone after the last angel passed, but looks like the tetras developed some new spots, quiet a number I would say. I went and bought Aquari-Sol, but have not added it yet... I'm not sure how to take apart the filter, do I just rip off the plastic casing under the blue sponge? Keep it? or Use a new filter after? Is it ok to leave the bio-wheel in?
I also bought Nutrafin plant Gro for my plants, but on the back says there is 0.0005% copper, which Byron you said is stressful to the fish, or is this ok to use?
I really don't want to restart the cycle after treating them, but I don't think they will be able to fight these off on their own.
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Old 10-15-2009, 06:13 PM   #27
 
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Yes they are both very very helpful and I am taking their advice very seriously and have done just about everything they've recommended, and I really thank them for that!!!
It looks like my ammonia is coming down a little, and my nitrites are going up. I did another pwc today.
I thought the ich was gone after the last angel passed, but looks like the tetras developed some new spots, quiet a number I would say. I went and bought Aquari-Sol, but have not added it yet... I'm not sure how to take apart the filter, do I just rip off the plastic casing under the blue sponge? Keep it? or Use a new filter after? Is it ok to leave the bio-wheel in?
I also bought Nutrafin plant Gro for my plants, but on the back says there is 0.0005% copper, which Byron you said is stressful to the fish, or is this ok to use?
I really don't want to restart the cycle after treating them, but I don't think they will be able to fight these off on their own.
Copper is one of the nutrients that plants require. The amount in the Plant-Gro sticks, or in any reputable liquid fertilizer, is insufficient to be toxic to fish and plants. Ironically, excess copper will kill plants as well as fish (and all of us). Another example of that balance.

Not familiar with your filter, I assume you are asking because Aquari-Sol says to remove carbon; that is standard, since carbon will work to remove the medication from the water and weaken it. If you have a carbon insert in the filter, the carbon insert should be removed.

As mentioned previously, it has to be your call on treating the ich. If you do, I would continue with the pwc to reduce the nitrite during this second stage of the nitrification cycle, and as the Aquari-Sol is added each day, add it after the pwc so it is not being diluted.

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