ph of water changes - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources
 
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post #1 of 5 Old 04-25-2010, 08:48 AM Thread Starter
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ph of water changes

When doing a water change in a cichlid tank how do you match the ph?
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post #2 of 5 Old 04-25-2010, 10:42 AM
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I never do, but it somewhat depends upon the degree of difference and other factors. Can you tell us what the pH in the aquarium is before the water change, and the pH of the tap water?

Byron.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #3 of 5 Old 04-26-2010, 07:54 AM Thread Starter
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Tap is 7 but the tank will be pretty high, i want to have cichlids from Lake T
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post #4 of 5 Old 04-26-2010, 08:17 AM
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Were it me, I would grab a good Tanganyika buffer. The buffer can be used to maintain acceptable conditions in your tank, and it should have water change instructions on the package, I.E., add so many teaspoons per so many gallons, every so often.

Using the right substrates and rocks for your rock formations will help maintain good pH and element levels in the water column, too.

Thanks--
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post #5 of 5 Old 04-26-2010, 12:23 PM
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There are two different but connected issues in this thread.

First, tap water is pH 7 and you want the tank higher for rift lake cichlids, say pH 8 or above. The easiest, safest and less costly way to achieve this is with calcareous material as DCR mentioned. I have previously kept these fish in pH 8 with tap water of 6 by using dolomite as the substrate. In your case, as the tap water is already at 7 and may contain some hardness, you could have a quantity of dolomite in the filter that would raise the pH and corresponding hardness from 7 to 8 easily; some initial experimenting to find the amount necessary would be required over a couple of weeks, but it doesn't take much. This method allows you to have the substrate of your choice, say buff sand for authenticity. There is also the rift lake cichlid substrate sand available that contains the mineral content to raise pH and hardness. Dolomite seems difficult to find some places, and I have heard tat crushed coral works the same way.

As for partial water changes, which I thought was your original question, I would do nothing. Once the tank is established with a stable hardness and pH of 8, a partial water change of 50% with tap water at pH 7 would have minimal impact. The stability of the tank's biological system works to buffer new water, especially in your case with the higher mineral (calcium and magnesium) from the dolomite.

This works both ways; in my present setups I have tanks with a pH of 5 and 6, zero hardness; and tap water is 7. When I do the 50% pwc, the tank pH rises maybe .2 or .4 at most which is insignificant.

Byron.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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