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Nervous Fish

This is a discussion on Nervous Fish within the Cichlids forums, part of the Freshwater and Tropical Fish category; --> It might of been zero ammonia, is that possible cause like it was barely yellow, mabey I am calculating wrong. 305 has been running ...

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Old 05-19-2010, 04:33 PM   #11
 
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It might of been zero ammonia, is that possible cause like it was barely yellow, mabey I am calculating wrong.

305 has been running around 5 years now I recently changed the sponges and carbon, I changer the carbon probably every few months or something. 203 is completly new with everything in it also new. I feed them cichlid pellets and reugular flakes(both nutrafin) and I think I will keep a closer eye on the feeding.

I dont approch the tank quickly I just walk normally, its not in a very high traffic are, so I am thinking changing the decor will be the best idea. I mean the fish clearly get along, I see the male sijica chase the bigger babies away sometimes but really not too often the parrots and biggest sijica swim together when no one is close. So I really hope the decor change will help.
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Old 05-20-2010, 03:56 AM   #12
 
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Is there any way some sort of chemical could have gotten into the tank? Is it possible you forgot to add water conditioner during your last water change?

If your tests are accurate I suspect maybe there's some other issue at play here, such as a chemical you're not seeing. It might not be a bad idea to run some activated carbon in your filter just to be sure.
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Old 05-21-2010, 11:06 PM   #13
 
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Ya there is Zero ammonia... something is wrong blood parrots are turning white and pale, I did add a marble rock and a new filter(fluval 203) Guess Ill buy some medicine tomorrow.

EDIT: I highly dout any chemicals got in.
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Old 05-22-2010, 01:22 AM   #14
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xlinkinparkx View Post
It might of been zero ammonia, is that possible cause like it was barely yellow, mabey I am calculating wrong.

305 has been running around 5 years now I recently changed the sponges and carbon, I changer the carbon probably every few months or something. 203 is completly new with everything in it also new. I feed them cichlid pellets and reugular flakes(both nutrafin) and I think I will keep a closer eye on the feeding.

I dont approch the tank quickly I just walk normally, its not in a very high traffic are, so I am thinking changing the decor will be the best idea. I mean the fish clearly get along, I see the male sijica chase the bigger babies away sometimes but really not too often the parrots and biggest sijica swim together when no one is close. So I really hope the decor change will help.

If you recently changed the sponges and carbon in the old filter, then it is possible that a portion of the biological filter was lost. New filter could also be struggling slowly,but surely to establish a bacteria colony.
This could result in ammonia and nitrite levels becoming elevated at some point during the day or evening such as possibly after feedings.
In a mature aquarium, the ammonia and nitrites will read zero all day ,every day and nitrAtes in the tank would be best kept at or below 20 ppm.
If readings are otherwise,you can throw all the medications you want in the aquarium but possible underlying water quality issues will result in medications having little effect.
Maybe taking a sample of your water to fish store and getting second opinion would be something to consider.
Maybe lighting has been upgraded lately to benefit the plants? This could cause fish to become skittish if lighting has suddenly been increased.
I might check to see that temperature is steady in the tank and that no fluctuations are taking place.
These are some things I might consider before using medications for ??
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Old 05-22-2010, 02:24 AM   #15
 
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1077 is right... how can you medicate if you don't know what you're medicating for? Also, there are a great many meds that can turn toxic in the presence of any ammonia or nitrite... even that .1 nitrite reading.

The pale coloration may be stress induced as well... which means no medication is going to fix that. Its best to sort out what the problem is and fix the problem so you don't mistreat symptoms.

I also agree with the 2nd opinion on the water testing. Thats a very good idea at this point, considering the sudden escalation of symptoms/problem.

Something else you can do is to sit down with a pen & notebook, trace back everything you can remember doing to, with, in, around the tank since this began. Anything at all can be useful when you're looking for changes. Is there a new brand name of something you began using around that time? Something you stopped using around that time? Something that is regularly done but at spaced intervals... like was mentioned about replacing lights... if not increasing, maybe changing to new bulbs? Different bulbs?

One last suggestion is to watch the tank from a bit of distance after the lights go out. Watch how the behavior in the fish changes, watch who begins chasing who, nipping at who, pairing up with who, etc. Typically fish are settling into their dark time routine within 30 - 45 minutes of the time the lights go out for the night. That is the time to watch.

Keep us posted and don't panic and do something in a rush before you know what needs to be done. That could mean the difference between life and death in any/all of your fish.
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Old 05-22-2010, 06:42 AM   #16
 
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Hey guys,

Yes brining the water to the petstore is a good idea. things that have changed in the past few months...
1) Added Marbel Rock
2) Added Filter
3) Took Out Bubbles
4) Babies are growing
5) Changed 2 out of 4 sponges, then 3 carbons, the bio thingys(white cylinders with holes in the middle) remained the same.

These are really the only things I have done. This aquarium has not had a problem in 2-3 years, This is why I am panicking. I have barley been paying attention to it, aside from water chages and feeding I havent had to go buy anything for this aquarium. Till I noticed they were all hiding.


Lastly, the big sijica and both parrots are constatly swimming near the top gasping for air which is really concerning me, school just finished so I will be doing some research.

I really appreciate all the help thank you.
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Old 05-22-2010, 11:59 AM   #17
 
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After rereading all of the info posted, I am still wondering how accurate your test results are. The reason I say this is because for those parrot fishes to still fit into a 55 gallon tank with the other cichlids after 2 - 3 yrs... something is wrong. Those parrot fish should have outgrown that tank by now.

The gasping at the surface could mean low oxygen content in the water, or ammonia or nitrite burning the gills... or parasites in the gills... but this really doesn't sound like parasites. None of the other symptoms really match up to be parasites.

Try adding an air stone or 2, or a power head near the surface to help generate oxygen in the water. Spray bars from canister filters don't typically put out enough circulation by themselves to sustain larger or higher oxygen needing animals. I would suggest having the water tested as soon as is possible, but be sure to have them check all 4 basic tests.. ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and pH. Make note of what test kits the lfs uses and have them write down exact numbers for you. If they tell you "its fine" that tells you nothing, and it tells us nothing that we can use to help you. Also, be sure the water is being tested before a water change, not after, so you are getting the most accurate results.

I don't remember seeing the water temp listed here anywhere...??

I will try to stop back here later tonight to watch for updates to your posts.
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Old 05-25-2010, 12:52 AM   #18
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xlinkinparkx View Post
Ya there is Zero ammonia... something is wrong blood parrots are turning white and pale, I did add a marble rock and a new filter(fluval 203) Guess Ill buy some medicine tomorrow.

EDIT: I highly dout any chemicals got in.

After going back and re-reading , I would remind you that marble rock/chips can raise the pH in aquariums. While one rock in large tank may not have too much effect ,I would keep in mind that once pH becomes too much different than the pH of water you use at water changes,then fish can become stressed as their osmoregulatory abilities try to adjust to the change.
I don't know that one rock would pose such a threat, but would not add marble and would perhaps opt for flagstone.
Might check the pH of the tank and record what the reading is.Would then run a bucket of tapwater and let it set out for 24 hours and then take pH reading from the bucket of tapwater.
If there is a significant difference,then this could be contributing to problem.Can't offer much more at this point.
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Old 05-25-2010, 01:16 AM   #19
 
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Agreed. Marble not a good idea. Far too many other options for "safe" rock.
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Old 05-30-2010, 12:45 PM   #20
 
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Ok little up date I know its been a while but I have been busy with work school. So it seems that everything is back to normal here. I added the bubbles back in and the infected gills on my parrot seem to be gone and everyone is going wild when I approach the aquarium waiting for their krill:)

So I still plan to move some of the babies and possibly the blood parrots soon because its getting crowded, although it does break my hear to do so.I am keeping a close eye on these fish to make sure everything remains "normal".
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