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Are Tetra's not for me - Going wrong where?

This is a discussion on Are Tetra's not for me - Going wrong where? within the Characins forums, part of the Freshwater and Tropical Fish category; --> I will sure try (I'm just about ready to try anythingggg anyone tell's me) right now its up anyway because of the ich attack ...

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Are Tetra's not for me - Going wrong where?
Old 02-15-2010, 10:02 PM   #11
 
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I will sure try (I'm just about ready to try anythingggg anyone tell's me) right now its up anyway because of the ich attack so I'll only dial it down very little.
When I had the Cardinals I had it at 81 or 82 but that didn't have seemed to help their survival neither.....
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Old 02-15-2010, 10:03 PM   #12
 
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Are you getting all of your fish from one store? I mean, it sounds like most (all?) of your casualties are fish that you've just purchased so as long as your water parameters aren't completely different from those at the LFS and you're drip acclimating them, I'd be inclined to think that a major factor might also just be some crappy stock.
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Old 02-15-2010, 10:12 PM   #13
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iamntbatman View Post
Are you getting all of your fish from one store? I mean, it sounds like most (all?) of your casualties are fish that you've just purchased so as long as your water parameters aren't completely different from those at the LFS and you're drip acclimating them, I'd be inclined to think that a major factor might also just be some crappy stock.
That's what I thought at first too with the Cardinal & Rummy's...but then I bought the rest of the fish spread over different stores here that had +/-0.2 pH the same then me and I always drip acclimate any fish for several hrs That's why I said I'm just really running VERY thin here on ideas of what the heck I'm doing wrong here...I just never had issues like that in all these years.

As for crappy stock 2 LFS get their fish from the same wholeseller soooo I went to the 3rd store...but you see where that brought me to....

You know if I was a newby on all this never had a tank nor fish in my life and did everything in the book wrong I could see....but I just don't get it at all and its super frustrating to say the least.

I do wanna keep Tetra's since I have the perfect water for them don't get me wrong - But I am thinking by now that maybe that's just now for me....You know like when I first set up the 55g and had all these 5 diff algae troubles there yea I was mad & upset but truthfully I knew I could handle this with enough patience and run it past me and I did and that's a happy healthy tank now....but that Tetra tank....I really do not know.....

I will try the 2F difference sure....but honestly I don't wanna keep buying schools & schools of tetra's just to flush dead bodies you know what I mean?

Sorry guys I know I'm very cry baby about this *shut up now*
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Old 02-16-2010, 01:59 AM   #14
 
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Originally Posted by Angel079 View Post
When I read up on them I found 76-80F and 73-80 for the Emporer....and for sake of the Cory Cats I settled for the lower 77F to not fry any one and not have any one be cold neither

The simple reason I didn't QT them; the Cardinals where alone anyway so alone in tank A or B wouldn't have made a diff. When I added the other Rummy's & Emporer again there was 4 Rummy in the tank and I had to choose to QT them in the spare tank or the stock for the 55g I got so I chosen the stock for the 55g to be QTed.... I see QT making sense as far as not making other fish sick; but that wouldn't prevent sudden unexplainable death of the not to be found Rummy. And the new ick break out after all the time now I'd have not QTed them for 3 months anyway....

I drip acclimate all of them over 3-3.5 hrs time - That should have been sufficient (I thought anyway)?!
All the DW I have is from my old tank (I ketp it all when I had to give the old tanks up) and I can hardly believe that after yrs in my tanks all the sudden it would give off "bad stuff"; if it was brand new yea...but that stuff is OLD.

There's no CAE in any of the tanks (sorry will cross check the log and update).

The Tank is 7 and KH 2 the tap is 6.8 and 1 and when I do the w/c (unless removing meds etc) I do about 30% at a time.

1077 you said:
I would not use anything in aquariums that was not absolutely needed and as I have mentioned in past, I would disenfect all tools,buckets,sponges,etc that I may have used or am using while treating sick fish.
What jumped out at you being unsafe in my tanks? I'm overlooking it I guess, but I donno really what you're ref too?
They each have their own nets. Each have their own sponges for the glass. Buckets used I have buckets where I only vacuum the water into and then a OTHER set of buckets with which I refill (since I now REALLY do not feel safe using the Python there). And the only thing I use the same on all tanks is the gravel vac with gets washed hotttt (like hurting my hands hot hot) between use of tank A and B. What else could I do?


Climate of this thread is becoming a bit uncomfortable for my taste , so I shall wish you luck and refrain from trying to offer any more ideas that seem to irritate you. Perhaps it is me. In any event,, I have little interest in emotional aspects of the hobby and try to train my efforts on helping others discover what many, much more expierienced than myself ,,consider helpful with regards to proper care of fishes.

For the benefit (or not) of others,,

Quarantine tanks will go a long ways in preventing pathogens unknown from being transported to display tanks. Fish don't always appear sick, covered in ich,etc to harbor parasites or other pathogens. The fact that fish are alone in any tank does not mean they are not ill. In fact ,it is quite possible that many fish we purchase are indeed under considerable stress due to being caught,placed in bags,transported to fish stores ,and then acclimated to waters different from the bags of water they were shipped in. They are then caught once again when we purchase them,placed in bags,transported to our homes, and then once again they are subjected to acclimation to possibly different waters (ie) pH,temp.
Fish under stress do not always become Ill overnight. Medications will not work overnight .
Quarantine tanks also make the use of medications easier and cheaper. Smaller body of water,less meds are needed and water changes are easier.

Temperatures listed for many species of fish along with pH values are often taken from books where many years ago,, fish were wild caught for the aquarium trade. Some species of fish ,are still wild caught. Temps could reflect temps that are found at different times of day, different seasons,and or prefered spawning temperatures in areas where these fish were once collected and some still are.When keeping most species ,it is in my view , a good idea to aim for temp and ph values that fall somewhere in the middle of those values rather than upper or lower extremes.

Can only speak for myself but I am not inclined to assume anything that a particular hobbyist may or may not be doing or not doing. I don't assume for instance that water parameters are fine,good,normal.ok.etc,etc.I can only suggest what I feel would be beneficial to most species of fish.
I don't assume what chemicals,potions,powders,ferts,pH altering substrates or decor might be in use in any ones aquarium. I only suggest that if it ain't needed I don't use it.
I don't assume that foods that are offered are suitable for fishes being kept and that foods are fresh. I merely suggest that fresh foods, along with variety ,and refraining from foods such as store bought feeders will benefit the fish.

I accept the fact that fish sometimes die for no apparent reason or fault of the hobbyist. I merely try to offer suggestions that might help avoid stress to the fish which in turn,often results in weakened immune sytem,and possibly sick fish as a result.
I do not know everything. You will find no posts from me indicating such. I lose fishes on occasion. Though I generally don't use medications and prefer to maintain water quality and treat sick fish as last resort,, I have used medications over the twenty some years I have been in the hobby.
Due to the fact that many pathogens,bacterial infections or other unknown problems share similar symptoms,, and not being an expert,,, I have found that most treatments have 50/50 chance of success. When I DO medicate, I do so in quarantine tank and I follow the directions. More is not better.
I treat for the duration recommended,I don't mix medications.and I am aware that medications for some fishes are harmful to others and that some medications ,will affect negatively the biological filter(good bacteria) and I monitor the water during medications for that reason. I also as stated before,, disenfect all tools, sponges,scrapers,nets,buckets,syphons,etc after each use cause I can't afford different tools for each tank.
Lastly.. as already mentioned, I accept the fact that sometimes despite our best efforts,fish die. Is as it always has been in the wild as well as in our aquariums.
For those reading this if you are so inclined, Do not expect others to assume anything. It is why we ask for as much information with regards to your or my aquarium as you can provide in the interest of perhaps offering some help. The more information,,, The better.
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Old 02-16-2010, 09:22 AM   #15
 
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...and I thought I was confused yesterday...now I REALLY am confused....

1077 you said there's something about the "keeping it sterile / clean" and I did not understand what you were ref to in my set up so I thought I could ask for clarification; If I upset / offended you with that question I'm sorry, but I still don't catch the rout of your trail of thoughts there.

Yes I am emotional about this and I won't apologize for it because I care about my fish as much as I do about any of my other critters around here and if there's something I can do to prevent all this I sure would like to do so.

As most of you know my view on chem's in tank: I don't use no ph up/ down stuff no ferts there, all I use is my water conditioner which is Prime right now and Ich Meds atm for treatment; nothing else no hidden agenda here.

Food offered is a mixture of flakes, mini pellets and diff frozen foods (thawed out). As for the fresh veggies offered for the pleco I hadn't seen the Tetra's go on to that (thou they might at nights I donno hadn't seen them do it).

I pers don't find it helpful if I was to go ahead and QT the 2 very obviously ich infected one's now and leave the rest untreated of that tank as I find it very likely the rest is already infected as well so only QT 2 would not be so helpful IMO spc cause I can't even see whether or not the Albino Cory's have spots or not, so that's why I teat the whole tank and I do so at less then half dose of the stuff since they're Tetra's.


The only thing I gotten out of this thread for my set up so far is to up the Temp by 2-3F (1-2C) after the ich is done but otherwise I'm starting to feel entirely lost with this thread really.
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Old 02-16-2010, 02:01 PM   #16
 
Ichthyophthirius multifiliis - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Angel, you're getting ich from the fish you're buying. Ich doesn't sit around in your tank and wait for an opportune moment. It either eats or dies...there is no dormant cycle in it's life.

Most of the time, the fish stores have a common water supply, so, walk around and check *every single fish* for ich...if you see one, then you know there is almost definitely ich swimming around in the water as well. Each visible cyst on the fish will releases around a thousands of trophozoite (the swimming stage of ich) when it bursts open, which is why it spreads so incredibly fast...it's a quickly multiplying process! The water temperature change can weaken an *already infected* fish's immune system, causing a quick outbreak like you're seeing...you're not getting it because of the temperature change...they're already infected. This isn't really debatable...that's just how they work.

I don't have a quarantine tank, so for me, it's either buy healthy fish or end up having to medicate my tank. I don't like to medicate, so is only one store that I buy my fish from. I've only got ich once from it over the two years that I've been shopping there...and...I assume because they medicate their fish...but better them than me.

Every single...let me emphasize that...*EVERY SINGLE* time I've bought a fish from Petsmart or Petco or this certain LFS, I've had an ich outbreak. Going back to the store, every time, you can see ich breaking out on some of the fish in the store. There were two times when they had a hard to find fish and I took it home with medication because the tank next to them had a few spots of ich.

Last edited by nomel; 02-16-2010 at 02:02 PM.. Reason: typo
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Old 02-16-2010, 03:01 PM   #17
 
Angel079,
I don't have any advice but from one Angel to another What Nomel just posted makes a lot of sense. From what I have read you aren't doing anything wrong, and I really hope you have better luck with your Tetras if and when you try to keep them again.

I would be very frustrated too if I were having the problems that you are having with your Tetras.

Last edited by Angel777; 02-16-2010 at 03:04 PM..
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Old 02-16-2010, 08:01 PM   #18
 
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@nomel
Thank I read up all I could find back when the Cardinals came down with ich. That's why I had said in one of the prior posts to sep the visibly sick fish from the not visible sick one's at thsi point makes no sense to me and I won't do it (Yes I do listen to advise given to me; just chose not to take it if it makes no sense, which it doesn't in that case cause I gotta treat the whole tank IMO)

@Angel you're so sweet thanks! Thou you confused me with your name the other day when all I seen was Angel 7....and I'm like HUH I didn't post that till I seen the 777 not 079
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Old 02-24-2010, 01:35 PM   #19
 
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I'm not sure I can help as I just recently started my Tetra community tank, but one thing I have personally noticed is that the tetras seem to like the warmer water temps, my tank is at 82 right now and I also have Cory cats and Loaches (which will be given to a friend when they reach 4 inches) and they all seem to be very happy. I know that temp is a bit high, but they seem to be a lot more active and relaxed this way. When it was initially around 78 they didn't move around as much and seemed like they would get startled when I would walk by the tank. Another thing is that they like a lower PH, between 6 and 7, but not over 7, they like a little acid. You have far more knowledge than I do, I'm just trying to give you my personal experience with these fish in the hopes it may help even a little. Keep us posted. Good Luck!
Jonny
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Old 02-24-2010, 03:05 PM   #20
 
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Yea my Rummy's will accept 80F as the max. Water being 6.5 and KH1 outta my tap I can assure you I have no hard water in the tanks


Any/ All spots are gone on anyone I seen today. So starting today I'll medicate 5 add days if spots don't return we're good. Then I'll make up my mind if i'll get some new stock for the QT next month or not I donno ...
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