Silvertip Tetras Dying - Page 2 - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources
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post #11 of 14 Old 04-13-2013, 10:10 AM
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I should coment on the ich treatment, which I missed previously. Characins are very sensitive to chemicals and medications, which is why many treatments usually recommend half strength with these fish. Malachite green is not good to use with characins, but having said that, I suspect (hope) the level of this drug in this product may be minimal anyway.

For future treatment, and ich is very common with new fish, if the fish species can tolerate it, raising the temperature to 86F without any drugs will usually work. Keep the temp at 86F for a full week, then turn down the heater and let the tank return to normal temp. If the fish cannot manage with the higher temperature, raise the tank temp as high as you can and use CopperSafe. This is not a strong drug so it is less likely to cause difficulties for sensitive fish [and I have had no losses using this with wild-caught characins like pencilfish and various tetra, farlowella, and even corys which are notorious for having problems with medications]. A good water change first, raising the temp some, add the CS, maintain the heat for one week, then return it to normal, and wait another 3-5 days for the next water change.

Here in North America, where kkomadina lives, we are seeing more issues with commercially-raised fish than used to be the case. For some 20 years I never quarantined, and I never had issues beyond ich which was never a problem (never lost fish to this) if caught right away. But over the past 3 or so years, both from my experience mentioned previously and from what I have read on this forum and elsewhere, this has changed noticeably. After my loss of half my existing fish in a display tank, I am now quarantining new fish for 5-6 weeks. It is a wise precaution these days.

Byron.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #12 of 14 Old 04-13-2013, 10:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Byron View Post
I should coment on the ich treatment, which I missed previously. Characins are very sensitive to chemicals and medications, which is why many treatments usually recommend half strength with these fish. Malachite green is not good to use with characins, but having said that, I suspect (hope) the level of this drug in this product may be minimal anyway.

For future treatment, and ich is very common with new fish, if the fish species can tolerate it, raising the temperature to 86F without any drugs will usually work. Keep the temp at 86F for a full week, then turn down the heater and let the tank return to normal temp. If the fish cannot manage with the higher temperature, raise the tank temp as high as you can and use CopperSafe. This is not a strong drug so it is less likely to cause difficulties for sensitive fish [and I have had no losses using this with wild-caught characins like pencilfish and various tetra, farlowella, and even corys which are notorious for having problems with medications]. A good water change first, raising the temp some, add the CS, maintain the heat for one week, then return it to normal, and wait another 3-5 days for the next water change.

Here in North America, where kkomadina lives, we are seeing more issues with commercially-raised fish than used to be the case. For some 20 years I never quarantined, and I never had issues beyond ich which was never a problem (never lost fish to this) if caught right away. But over the past 3 or so years, both from my experience mentioned previously and from what I have read on this forum and elsewhere, this has changed noticeably. After my loss of half my existing fish in a display tank, I am now quarantining new fish for 5-6 weeks. It is a wise precaution these days.

Byron.
Excellent advice.... I always advise QT periods of between 4 and 8 weeks depending on the species.
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BA, BSc, MA.... hopefully soon to be Phd.
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post #13 of 14 Old 04-14-2013, 10:35 AM Thread Starter
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So I am wondering what is the minimum size for a quarantine tank? 10 gal? For just a few fish at a time would 5 gal be too small? Also thanks to everyone for all of their comments and help. The silvertips seem to have stabilized, lost one more but the remaining 5 look very healthy, I got them from a shop with a high pH in the water 8.4 they said.
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post #14 of 14 Old 04-14-2013, 11:27 AM
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I would use a 10g before a 5g for QT. Normally you would probably acquire a group of a species, say 7-9 tetra, and they are almost always at the small juvenile size when available, so a 10g gives you sufficient space. The more space around them, generally speaking, the less stressed fish will be. And I am not a fan of "bare" tanks for new acquisitions, so provide some cover, be it chunks of artificial wood and branches, floating plants, etc.
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Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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