what do I do after a disease in the tank? - Page 2 - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources
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post #11 of 15 Old 05-13-2013, 05:46 AM Thread Starter
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Sorry its been so long since Ive replied, Ive been working night shift...the joys! I got the hardness test kit although I am a bit confused by it...only the carbonate hardness it says it should turn from blue to yellow but mine didnt go blue at all just went to yellow. The general hardnesssays it should turn orange to green but its stayed orange, the droplets are green going in though but once shaken its orange...either the test kit is messed up or Im doing something wrong.
Ive started feeding my cory pellets again you will be happy to hear. She is also swimming about as normal appears happy and healthy neither up or down about being in there alone.


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You really need the sinking foods for corys and similar substrate feeders. These willnot cause algae any more than other foods.

Yes, floating plants are those floating on the surface. We have several species in our profiles, check under the Floating Plants section, under the second heading from the left in the blue bar at the top of this page.

If you can find data on your water, post the link and I can take a look.
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post #12 of 15 Old 05-13-2013, 06:19 AM Thread Starter
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Just took the test again got general hardness reading of 53.7 but the carbonate hardness is just doing as I said before Im thinking its maybe really low? If I have read correctly it should be between 3 - 6? Is that right?
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post #13 of 15 Old 05-13-2013, 10:36 AM
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Just took the test again got general hardness reading of 53.7 but the carbonate hardness is just doing as I said before Im thinking its maybe really low? If I have read correctly it should be between 3 - 6? Is that right?
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It doesn't "have" to be anything, it is what it is for your water. KH is not an issue.

On the GH, if this is 53 ppm, that is 3 dGH which is very soft water. I would just confirm this with your municipal water people to be sure. Assuming this is accurate, you can have almost any soft water fish, but avoid livebearers and rift lake cichlids, all of which must have harder water.

Byron.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #14 of 15 Old 05-21-2013, 05:56 PM Thread Starter
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Yeh sorry 53ppm.

Well thank you for all your help it has been great getting help from someone that doesnt judge you for being a "newbie" and genuinely wants to help. Thanks again much appreciated =)

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Originally Posted by Byron View Post
It doesn't "have" to be anything, it is what it is for your water. KH is not an issue.

On the GH, if this is 53 ppm, that is 3 dGH which is very soft water. I would just confirm this with your municipal water people to be sure. Assuming this is accurate, you can have almost any soft water fish, but avoid livebearers and rift lake cichlids, all of which must have harder water.

Byron.
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post #15 of 15 Old 11-09-2013, 04:30 AM
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Contaminants from the air canbecome infused into aquarium water...especially cigarette smoke and cooking fumes. Aalso air fresheners and cleaning products... paint fumes, car exhaust
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