Is my cory just fat, or else? - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources
 
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post #1 of 10 Old 06-12-2009, 12:47 PM Thread Starter
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Is my cory just fat, or else?

I've got a lone C. Trilineatus in my 33 g. He's a 'surprise find' and I have never been able to find others, hence the 'lone', but he is not a loner, he schools with my melanistius and Schwartii's and is very active. He's my favorite fish so I spend a lot of time in front of the tank...admiring him like some kind of vapid fangirl *fans herself*

Thing is, he's grown BIG. And I'm not sure if he's just fat, or something else. My water is fine -no ammonia nor nitrite, nitrate at 10. The only thing is the ph is a little low at 6, I am working on slooowly pulling it up by adding limestone.

Here's pictures, what do you think?




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post #2 of 10 Old 06-12-2009, 08:15 PM
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Maybe he is a she.

150 Gallon - Mostly American Cichlids
135 Gallon - Angelfish Community
75 Gallon - Odd couple (Polleni/Angelfish)
55 Gallon - African tank
20 Gallon Long - QT
10 Gallon - Empty
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post #3 of 10 Old 06-12-2009, 09:29 PM Thread Starter
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looking at 'it', it's probably a she you're right, she is quite round. So she could be full of eggs?
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post #4 of 10 Old 06-12-2009, 10:31 PM
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Yes, she could be full of eggs. The females are generally larger and plumper. I still have a hard time sexing them when seen individually. It's easier to tell when you can see them as a group.

150 Gallon - Mostly American Cichlids
135 Gallon - Angelfish Community
75 Gallon - Odd couple (Polleni/Angelfish)
55 Gallon - African tank
20 Gallon Long - QT
10 Gallon - Empty
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post #5 of 10 Old 06-13-2009, 11:53 AM
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Could be eggs as former posters suggest, or just good eating. I've had corys that gorged themselves on live worms and got very plump just like this one; have you observed your fish at feeding times to see how much it eats?

A word on the pH--6 is OK for corys [don't know what else is in your aquarium, if other SA fish like tetras, dwarf cichlids, etc would be good so long as it's constant] but at the same time I would agree that raising it a tad to 6.2 or 6.4 is a good idea, and using limestone or dolomite is the best way. If you can, add the limestone/dolomite to the filter rather than into the main tank; it is easier to control the effect. I have a small nylon bag of dolomite gravel in the top filter chamber just to keep the pH at 6.2-6.4 and it takes a bit of experimenting to get the amount correct; too much and the pH can rise too fast and too high. Best to add a small quantity and observe the pH for two weeks (with the weekly partial water change in between) so you get a good idea what's happening. If there is no change, add a couple of tablespoons more, and wait two weeks, etc. I got mine to about 6-7 tablespoons, but I have a 90g tank. It doesn't take much. In your 33g, I would start with 2 tablespoons of dolomite.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #6 of 10 Old 06-13-2009, 07:58 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Byron, just got a bunch of small lava rock pebbles today and will add them in the filter to see how it goes.

I checked him/her at feeding time and he/she does eat a lot. So I probably got a fat cory, which is fine by me but still, he/she's fasting tonight!
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post #7 of 10 Old 06-14-2009, 09:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Freddiesbuns View Post
Thanks Byron, just got a bunch of small lava rock pebbles today and will add them in the filter to see how it goes.

I checked him/her at feeding time and he/she does eat a lot. So I probably got a fat cory, which is fine by me but still, he/she's fasting tonight!
"Lava rock" may I suppose refer to several different types of rock, but the lava rock I have in my filters (as part of the mechanical/biological filtration) does not affect pH or hardness in any way. It is reddish-brown and quite porous which is why it is a good biological filter medium. You can test the rock by putting a couple drops of vinegar on the rock and if it fizzes it is calcium-based and would raise pH and hardness to some degree; if no fizz, then it is not calcium-based.

I still recomend dolomite gravel, it is very cheap (can buy a small bag, it is a common gravel for marine tanks or rift lake cichlids) and lasts years before it ceases to work, and it is very convenient because so little is needed.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #8 of 10 Old 06-14-2009, 07:16 PM Thread Starter
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"Lava rock" may I suppose refer to several different types of rock, but the lava rock I have in my filters (as part of the mechanical/biological filtration) does not affect pH or hardness in any way. It is reddish-brown and quite porous which is why it is a good biological filter medium. You can test the rock by putting a couple drops of vinegar on the rock and if it fizzes it is calcium-based and would raise pH and hardness to some degree; if no fizz, then it is not calcium-based.

I still recomend dolomite gravel, it is very cheap (can buy a small bag, it is a common gravel for marine tanks or rift lake cichlids) and lasts years before it ceases to work, and it is very convenient because so little is needed.
I tested the lava rock with ph down the first time I added some and it fizzled, I'm pretty confident it will work (and if it doesn't it cost me 2$ so at least I won't have spend too much on nothing :P) I suspect it does take a lot to work 'though, I have several lava rocks and a piece of limestone in my tank and it only raised the ph by .5.
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post #9 of 10 Old 06-14-2009, 07:48 PM
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I tested the lava rock with ph down the first time I added some and it fizzled, I'm pretty confident it will work (and if it doesn't it cost me 2$ so at least I won't have spend too much on nothing :P) I suspect it does take a lot to work 'though, I have several lava rocks and a piece of limestone in my tank and it only raised the ph by .5.
I'm not sure what is in the pH down stuff, so whether or not that is a good test, but...

Raising pH by .5 is significant. Are you meaning that the pH was 5.5 and you raised it to 6 with the limestone/lava rock? Assuming there are fish in the tank, be careful. One degree of pH, being 6 to 7 for example, is a ten-fold decrease in acidity which is very significant to the fish that have to adjust their internal metabolism to get their blood ph equal to the water, and this must be done slowly to avoid stressing the fish. Corys are especially sensitive to water parameters and any changes.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #10 of 10 Old 06-15-2009, 09:17 AM Thread Starter
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I'm not sure what is in the pH down stuff, so whether or not that is a good test, but...

Raising pH by .5 is significant. Are you meaning that the pH was 5.5 and you raised it to 6 with the limestone/lava rock? Assuming there are fish in the tank, be careful. One degree of pH, being 6 to 7 for example, is a ten-fold decrease in acidity which is very significant to the fish that have to adjust their internal metabolism to get their blood ph equal to the water, and this must be done slowly to avoid stressing the fish. Corys are especially sensitive to water parameters and any changes.
Ph down is pure acid, it tends to work better than vinegar to detect calcium

As for the .5 increase it was in a span of 4 weeks, so I really don't think it was that hard on the fishes. I added the rock gradually, about one piece a week
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