Corydoras for a 55gal! And the best diet ever?
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Corydoras for a 55gal! And the best diet ever?

This is a discussion on Corydoras for a 55gal! And the best diet ever? within the Catfish forums, part of the Freshwater and Tropical Fish category; --> Sooo I'm getting my harlequin rasboras tomorrow for my 55gal. I have cherry barbs, neon tetras, and one crowntail betta right now. Considering adding ...

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Corydoras for a 55gal! And the best diet ever?
Old 01-12-2012, 07:24 PM   #1
 
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Question Corydoras for a 55gal! And the best diet ever?

Sooo I'm getting my harlequin rasboras tomorrow for my 55gal. I have cherry barbs, neon tetras, and one crowntail betta right now. Considering adding a school of Black Ruby Barbs at a later date, but don't wanna overstock so I don't know. I have lots of plants and more are coming tomorrow with the fish! Driftwood and lava rock too, lots of hiding. The gravel is a darkish brown color but varies with some white or lighter color pieces mixed in. It's not too big, and not sharp so I believe corys will be ok in it.

So here's the deal: I've had Cory's before, the albino kind, and I must say I used to be a fish murderer. Simply put I was young and didn't know what I was doing... I didn't feed the corys their own food because I was told they eat leftovers, and my water was way to hard (I think) for them. I want to give the corys I eventually get an amazing habitat and life to make up for the others

I am waiting a whole month from now even though my tank has been cycled for 6mo+ and the fish have been fine, I want the water parameters to be very stable and the plants to grow out more.

I have also been researching and trying to develop a feeding regimen. I have half a can of Wardley Shrimp Pellet Formula, I ordered some of the Hikari Algae wafers with a cory cat on them, and I still have half a package of frozen blood worms that I feed once a week, the day before a water change. I want to supplement their diets more though, so is this ok or is there more foods my catfish will like? Below are the ones I have liked looking through the profiles, but I am very open to suggestions (have to consider pet store availability, but I think we have like 10 species available for ordering)

Stocking...
3 Spotfin(Corydoras punctatus) OR Julli(Corydoras julii) OR Tailspot Cory(Corydoras caudimaculatus)
4 Smudge Spot Cory (Corydoras similis)

4 Panda Cory
3 Sterbai Cory


But then again I may skip out on the Sterbai. I also REALLY like any of the three pygmy/dwarf varieties, but I would want six of that type if I added one of them, due to their smaller size.

My water is 7.0-7.2pH and pretty soft, and I expect it to drop more since I just added a LOT of driftwood today. My temp is 77F.


SO ANYWAYS, will my tank be overstocked with all these corys, and would my plans be ok or should I cut down the species types and have the same number, or what?

I would really think about 6 of a dwarf or pygmy and 4 smudge spot and 4 pandas.


And for feeding, is a mix of those foods plus whatever ends up on the bottom (with my voracious neons it isn't much..) good enough for these corys? Any other suggestions?

Thanks if you read my novel
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Old 01-12-2012, 07:25 PM   #2
 
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Oh and I just want to add that I have read all of the cory profiles at least once, the ones I am interested in more than once, and have done some outside research xD But I trust you guys more than just articles on the web.
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Old 01-13-2012, 06:32 PM   #3
 
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The mentioned corys will not overload your tank biologically. I would try to get five of each species you get, but 3-4 will be fine when there are two or more species. I currently have all those mentioned, except the C. caudimaculatus which no one here has ever managed to bring in.

I do not recommend the dwarf species for larger tanks (4 feet length and up) because they tend to get "lost." I had a group of a dozen or so Corydoras pygmaeus in my former 90g Amazonian setup for a couple years and even though I spent hours in front of that tank I rarely saw more than 2-3 of them, and sometimes not even that. I thought they were gone, until I tore the tank down and moved the plants/fish into the present 70g, when I discovered 9 of them. I moved them in a 33g which has worked much better.

With respect to food for corys, variety is the best, as with all fish. I use a combo of 4 different sinking foods so I can alternate and they have something different 4 days running. Same goes for upper fish with flake/pellet foods. Good brands are Omega One, Hikari and New Life Spectrum; these are made with whole fish rather than meal/oil, etc. I always make sure there is at least 1 vegetable-based among the 4, a kelp/spirulina/algae based food, Omega One has a good one. Bloodworms are fine as a treat like you are doing. Live worms the same if you could get them (some stores do). Blanched veggies like yams and similar are good, some fish relish these, some less.

Byron.

Last edited by Byron; 01-13-2012 at 06:34 PM..
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Old 01-13-2012, 10:35 PM   #4
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Byron View Post
The mentioned corys will not overload your tank biologically. I would try to get five of each species you get, but 3-4 will be fine when there are two or more species. I currently have all those mentioned, except the C. caudimaculatus which no one here has ever managed to bring in.

I do not recommend the dwarf species for larger tanks (4 feet length and up) because they tend to get "lost." I had a group of a dozen or so Corydoras pygmaeus in my former 90g Amazonian setup for a couple years and even though I spent hours in front of that tank I rarely saw more than 2-3 of them, and sometimes not even that. I thought they were gone, until I tore the tank down and moved the plants/fish into the present 70g, when I discovered 9 of them. I moved them in a 33g which has worked much better.

With respect to food for corys, variety is the best, as with all fish. I use a combo of 4 different sinking foods so I can alternate and they have something different 4 days running. Same goes for upper fish with flake/pellet foods. Good brands are Omega One, Hikari and New Life Spectrum; these are made with whole fish rather than meal/oil, etc. I always make sure there is at least 1 vegetable-based among the 4, a kelp/spirulina/algae based food, Omega One has a good one. Bloodworms are fine as a treat like you are doing. Live worms the same if you could get them (some stores do). Blanched veggies like yams and similar are good, some fish relish these, some less.

Byron.
Yay thank you :) I will probably get 5 of two species and 3-4 of one of the others then, depending on the selection. And ahh I see, perhaps I'll opt out of the dwarfs.

And ah ok thank you. I have some hikari pellets with multiple colors that are supposed to do different things on the way for my upper level fish, and some flakes that are the brand "Cobalt Aquatics" (Cobalt Aquatics Tropical Flakes Premium Fish Food | Aquarium Fish Food). They seem to be good, and I will use these two for the upper level fish plus the blood worms and if I can get some daphnai, spirulina or some tubeflex worm cubes I might try them too :) I saw my fish store has a large jar of New Life Spectrum pellets also, and I was considering adding them too in the future. I'm getting some Omega One algae pellets so it's good to know they are good.

On the live worms I can get some freeze dried ones that are like dried out and in cubes but I'm not sure about safety? I guess it must be ok lol.

And on the blanched veggies, any specific ones you would recommend, what should I watch out for, and how exactly do you "blanch" them? Sorry if my questions are silly xD

And thank you so much for all the help you've been. My tank already looks so different from two months ago and I'm really excited about it :) I couldn't have done it without your knowledge and helpfulness as well as some other members. So thank you and it means a lot to me.
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Old 01-13-2012, 11:06 PM   #5
 
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You're very welcome. All of us here want others to succeed, so it is encouraging to know that we are helping toward this goal.

Yams, zucchini, cucumber, other types of squash can be tried; sometimes it takes a while for fish to get used to different types of food. I have used these raw, but many do recommend blanching them (drop them in boiling water for I'm not sure how long) which is just to soften them up a bit. You need something to hold them down, as they will otherwise float. There are implements for this, or you can use a suction fastener like those with heaters/filters and a bit of wire.

Green leafy veg like spinach and kale also serve a food, especially for algae-eating fish like mollies.

Freeze dried foods should be soaked to waterlog them before feeding, according to other members; this prevents the food from expanding inside the fish.
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Old 01-14-2012, 09:18 AM   #6
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Byron View Post
You're very welcome. All of us here want others to succeed, so it is encouraging to know that we are helping toward this goal.

Yams, zucchini, cucumber, other types of squash can be tried; sometimes it takes a while for fish to get used to different types of food. I have used these raw, but many do recommend blanching them (drop them in boiling water for I'm not sure how long) which is just to soften them up a bit. You need something to hold them down, as they will otherwise float. There are implements for this, or you can use a suction fastener like those with heaters/filters and a bit of wire.

Green leafy veg like spinach and kale also serve a food, especially for algae-eating fish like mollies.

Freeze dried foods should be soaked to waterlog them before feeding, according to other members; this prevents the food from expanding inside the fish.
I'm glad everyone has that attitude around here =)

And ok, thank you for the recommendations! I will probably try each of those raw and blanched, and look up some stuff on blanching them. I wasn't sure if they weren't "safe" if not blanched, so that's good that it's just to make them a little more palatable.
And I'm super glad I asked about the freeze-dried stuff :o If I get some I'll be sure to do that.
Thanks again

I might get the corydoras in two weeks as long as everything continues to go well.
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