Cory Behavior - Page 2 - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources
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post #11 of 17 Old 02-20-2011, 12:40 PM
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I agree with previous posts on cycling, not adding more fish yet, etc. In a 20g when ready, I would suggest 2 more for a group of 5 if the same species.

As for the species, most of those regularly seen in stores are in our profiles, just go through the Corydoras species and you should find yours. If it is spotted/mottled with a blotch in the dorsal, check the C. trilineatus, C. julii, C. reticulatus, C. sodalis and similar species. The very common Peppered Cory, C. paleatus, is quite distinctive and unlikely to be confused with any of these.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #12 of 17 Old 02-21-2011, 01:36 PM Thread Starter
Hi again,

Thanks for the advice, I will not add any more fish until the tank is done cycling. After looking into it more, I see that I should have started cycling with something different. What brand of test kit is reliable and affordable?

Thanks!
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post #13 of 17 Old 02-21-2011, 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by 100percentmaybe View Post
Hi again,

Thanks for the advice, I will not add any more fish until the tank is done cycling. After looking into it more, I see that I should have started cycling with something different. What brand of test kit is reliable and affordable?

Thanks!
Many (if not most) of us recommend the API liquid kits. They make a Freshwater Master kit containing tests for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and pH which is all you need. Liquid tests are more reliable than test strip. The combo kit will cost less than buying the individual test kits. While establishing a new tank, ammonia and nitrite are crucial tests. Once your aquarium is established, periodic tests for nitrates and pH are important.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #14 of 17 Old 02-21-2011, 02:10 PM Thread Starter
I will pick one up on my way home today! Should I be doing a water change every day until the tank has cycled?
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post #15 of 17 Old 02-21-2011, 05:37 PM
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I will pick one up on my way home today! Should I be doing a water change every day until the tank has cycled?
If you are getting ammonia or nitrite above zero, it would be good to do a 50% water change daily; definitely if above .25 for either ammonia or nitrite. A conditioner that detoxifies ammonia and nitrite is also advisable during cycling. Prime from Seachem does this, as does Ultimate from Aquarium Solutions. [There may be others that I am not familiar with--several will handle ammonia, but only the two mentioned also detox nitrite.] Just change water, siphon out from the top, do not disturb the substrate or filter media.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #16 of 17 Old 02-21-2011, 09:03 PM Thread Starter
No go on the kit at the store, I'm going to have to buy one online. All I have to go on right now is the test strips... :o/ I did buy a water conditioner that says it will take care of excess ammonium and nitrites, so I will add that and do the water changes until I can get the liquid test kit.

Fish seem like they are still doing okay!
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post #17 of 17 Old 02-22-2011, 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by 100percentmaybe View Post
No go on the kit at the store, I'm going to have to buy one online. All I have to go on right now is the test strips... :o/ I did buy a water conditioner that says it will take care of excess ammonium and nitrites, so I will add that and do the water changes until I can get the liquid test kit.

Fish seem like they are still doing okay!
You should be OK with daily water changes (even if not needed, can't hurt) as it will dilute the ammonia/nitrite and the conditioner will ensure both are safe until the next day's water change.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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