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Uncured Live Rock...HELP!

This is a discussion on Uncured Live Rock...HELP! within the Beginner Saltwater Aquariums forums, part of the Saltwater Fish and Coral Reef Tanks category; --> Originally Posted by onefish2fish your nitrites are coming from your bio balls. when you get more live rock remove them, they are just traping ...

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Uncured Live Rock...HELP!
Old 03-25-2009, 07:48 AM   #11
Originally Posted by onefish2fish View Post
your nitrites are coming from your bio balls. when you get more live rock remove them, they are just traping debris and detritus causing excess nutrient buildup ( like nitrates )

do not replace all the water in your tank as that would be complete shock, however a small scale water change would be a good idea. i would do 10 gallons just make sure you pre-mix the water atleast 24 hours in advance with RO/DI water.

what brand/model protien skimmer?
Well...this tank is the combination of my and my boyfriend's equipment. I had an Octopus skimmer...he had one that came with his sump. The Octopus wouldn't fit into his sump due to size, but we have decided to use my sump (larger) and the Octopus. The sump is being drilled now...so once we get that back we'll be using the Octopus and maybe even throw his skimmer in there too for good measure!

I'll inform him about the bio balls...is this just newer technology or information to NOT use them? I thought they were great to use???

We've also done a 10 gallon RO/DI water change (purchasing water from LFS right now but plan on buying our own RO maker). The water change didn't seem to make a dent...but it was just done yesterday.

Last edited by SaltwaterFishGirl; 03-25-2009 at 07:50 AM.. Reason: Wanted to add more information to post.
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Old 03-25-2009, 05:44 PM   #12
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There is so much to talk about on this thread.

Lets break it down. First, what type of Protein Skimmer. This is the most important piece of equipment and will determine your long term success.

2) Your bioballs are a long term problem and are causing your Nitrate spikes. You need to continue adding additional live rock and remove the biomedia slowly over time.

3) You need to read, read, and read some more on understanding pH, alkalinity, and calcium. All 3 of these need to be tested on a regular basis and adjustments made as appropriate. You can NOT generalize this concept. You need to know EXACTLY what you are adding, what it does, and what you are trying to accomplish. I keep alkalinity at 10-12 DKH, calcium at 420 - 460ppm, and pH at 8.2 to 8.4. I add Kent Marine liquid calcium and Kent Marine Super Buffer DKH when appropriate when calcium is low, or when alkalintiy and calcium are both low. In situations where calcium is correct but alkalinity is low, a water change is necessary to correct the situation. Read, read read, read, read. Start here: Chemistry and the Aquarium - You will not understand this article. Read it again. And again. Then find other articles on the subject until you know enough to understand how to adjust. This is the most important aspect of marine aquarium care, in my humble opinion.

4) Your Q tank has not been established long enough to use as a hospital tank. I suggest removing the live rock you just purchased, placing it into a storage tote full of saltwater, adding a power head, and CURING the live rock in this tote. After the ammonia and nitrite fall to ZERO in your live rock curing container, then you can add it back to your tank. This practice should be followed for future live rock additions exceeding 10% of your current live rock supply, or any time the live rock purchase of any quantity has a noticable odor.

5) Lower your salinity to 1.013 and raise the temperature to 84F. Begin feeding a garlic enhanced food daily. Continue this for at least 30 days AFTER the spots are gone. Then raise the salinity SLOWLY back to 1.024. I would also suggest that you add a UV Sterilzer to your setup. You can find hang on models at Aquarium Supplies, Pet Supplies and Pond Supplies by That Fish Place - That Pet Place for an affordable price. WARNING: Do not add any other livestock to your tank until the ich is gone for 90 days. Yes, I said 90 days. TRUST ME on this.
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Old 03-26-2009, 11:42 AM   #13
Thanks for the information...lots to read here.

How important are Calcium levels if you aren't going to have corals/anemones? This tank will be fish only with live rock.

We will be using an Octopus skimmer once the larger sump gets drilled. ETA is supposed to be this weekend, and then we can add that to the tank. We are using a smaller protein skimmer right now.

Added a UV sterilizer over the weekend and I must say that our tank has never been clearer...although we do have lots of cynobacterium growing. Will remove as much as possible with next good tank cleaning/water change.

I don't think I am going to remove the live rock unless it's an absolute must! Fish are still surviving...damsel has no signs of ick...only the clown has the ick...but I thought that clowns couldn't do hyposalinity??? Please advise!!!
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