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Thinking of starting SW

This is a discussion on Thinking of starting SW within the Beginner Saltwater Aquariums forums, part of the Saltwater Fish and Coral Reef Tanks category; --> Originally Posted by onefish2fish i do not suggest keeping snails in your sump. it is possible but personally i had to move all my ...

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Thinking of starting SW
Old 09-09-2012, 03:49 PM   #41
 
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Originally Posted by onefish2fish View Post
i do not suggest keeping snails in your sump. it is possible but personally i had to move all my livestock into my refuge once including my snails, after moving things back up to my display ive missed a few snails down there and have since burned out two skimmer pumps due to snail shells getting stuck in the pump intake.

i also strongly suggest on that sump design to skip on adding live rock rubble and keeping it in the display as it can create an issue collecting debris and allowing it to break down into nutrients ( similiar to bio balls ) in the slower flowing area of a refugium. maybe keep 1-3 baseball sized rocks in there and rotate 1 up to the display once a week. even doing this can pose an issue of trapping debris in the refugium though so keep an eye out. the rest of the sump looks good.

So best/no fuss way of maintaining the sump is skimmer, fuge with sand only and macro algea, and return. Any additions may need more maintainance and have extra consequences?

For my baffles, they dont have to have teeth, correct? Any changes you would propose on my design?
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Old 09-09-2012, 03:50 PM   #42
 
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they will live in the chaeto and be in your display as it is. letting the tank mature before fish will help get your pod population strong but just about any fish will see a pod as a snack making their numbers decrease as the fish increase.
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Old 09-09-2012, 03:52 PM   #43
 
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Originally Posted by bigehugedome View Post
So best/no fuss way of maintaining the sump is skimmer, fuge with sand only and macro algea, and return. Any additions may need more maintainance and have extra consequences?

For my baffles, they dont have to have teeth, correct? Any changes you would propose on my design?
that sounds perfect to me, maybe short of carbon and phosban reactors also in your sump, along with your heaters ofcourse.

no teeth are needed on the baffles.
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Old 09-09-2012, 09:47 PM   #44
 
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Bleh, im having such a hard time trying to plan this sump. Im just not good with this kinda stuff. This is what I have so far. Top View



The skimmer dimensions are 4.25" L x 7" W x 17" H .

Im not sure if I can put a seperate intake chamber that way as i donno how the skimmer would fit.

I also dont know how tall the baffles should be. I assume like 13 inches?

Side View:



Any of this making sense? Am i on the right track? Please help :)

Note : drawings not to scale
OK so Since is was a little confusing (at least for me) because we were talking about two diffrent sump setups. What is suggested I switch/change (if anything) before I go ahead with this build. Ill be using 1/4 inch glass and aquarium safe silicone. Here are my questions:

For the intake, I saw the 4x4inch box on melevsreef and some other sites/videos. What is the best setup for the intake? Should it flow directly into the skimmer chamber or Should it flow into that 4x4 box and overflow into the skimmer chamber (it should not be as tall as it is in my pic). What is needed on it? On the DIY overflow ill use, im supposed to use a PVC barb to connect a hose to go into the sump, however they did not have PVC, only brass, so thats no good. I assume I can go straight into the intake via PVC.

Skimmer chamber is OK. Just needs to fit the skimmer. If the water at 13 inches deep is then I may need to raise the skimmer Up with something.

Fuge is OK. Just sand (deep sand bed? 6-8 inches?) and algea, then into the return, where my heaters will be?

Anything I should change, or consider doing differently? Are my measurements OK for the chambers? Both Chamber width and baffle height?

I painted the back of the DT black and have just about everything for the overflow. Im ready to finialize this sump plan and get the glass ordered!
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Old 09-10-2012, 05:28 AM   #45
 
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Thanks! Only reason I was gonna put LR down there was 1)for the pods, and 2)because I heard it helped cut down on micro bubbles if you put them by the pipes
This is true. I always kept a couple of large pieces of LR in my sump for a hiding place for pods so I could switch it to the display every once in a while. But like OF2F said, make sure there is enough surface area on the rock, as rubble just traps detritus.
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Old 09-11-2012, 01:47 PM   #46
 
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Add some Culpera as well in the sump along with the Chaeto, more macro algae, more they will absorb the excess nitrates

on the sump design, one thing I would consider doing though is split the return line to the fuge and not the intake line. That way you are returning "cleaned" water back into the sump and not having dirty water coming in from the overflow.

I recently removed my filter sock from my sump as I found it to be getting too dirty for my liking and cleaning it way too often. I did have some issues in my tank and as they seem to be sorted I will perhaps return it. Keep an eye on it and dont allow it to become to dirty.

Tazman, is this horrible painting what you mean by splitting the return line? Does it make that much of a difference?


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Old 09-11-2012, 06:28 PM   #47
 
Its basic to split the return off, you do this to fine tune the return flow. If you get a pump that is close to or over the overflow box into the sump, yoiu use the T line with ball valve to fine tune the return. If you do not do this, its possible to overflow the DT. If you get a return pump that is lower flow than the Overflow is then you need not install the T line. I have one on mine, but its not in use at this time. I installed it incase I had to get another pump and it was over what was needed on the system.
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Old 09-11-2012, 06:36 PM   #48
 
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Its basic to split the return off, you do this to fine tune the return flow. If you get a pump that is close to or over the overflow box into the sump, yoiu use the T line with ball valve to fine tune the return. If you do not do this, its possible to overflow the DT. If you get a return pump that is lower flow than the Overflow is then you need not install the T line. I have one on mine, but its not in use at this time. I installed it incase I had to get another pump and it was over what was needed on the system.

OK so I am better with this second design, with the return in the middle, then i am with my first design? If so I will redo the plans so I can spec out the glass for the baffles.
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Old 09-11-2012, 07:05 PM   #49
 
Ah, not really better. You can add a T off anywhere you want to. I have mine on my left side. I have my sump compatmented by just using egg crate to section it off, just to keep the cheato from going into the are where my return and skimmer pumps are. The other section has the Macro Algae and intake lines in it.Desing is up to you, there are a vast number of different ways it can be done. I did it my way, to utilize all the space there was.
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Old 09-11-2012, 07:54 PM   #50
 
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Ah, not really better. You can add a T off anywhere you want to. I have mine on my left side. I have my sump compatmented by just using egg crate to section it off, just to keep the cheato from going into the are where my return and skimmer pumps are. The other section has the Macro Algae and intake lines in it.Desing is up to you, there are a vast number of different ways it can be done. I did it my way, to utilize all the space there was.
OK, well maybe ill stick to my old way. I think it keeps things simple IMHO

OK, well here is the deal. Im having money issues. So, this is going to be delayed. Im gonna ask a few questions and thank everyone for the personalized support. Hopefully you will see me get started in the next month or so.

1. Using the DIY overflow posted eariler from reefing, my understanding is that when the power goes back on, im relying on both the return sump and the powerhead to recreate the cycle, where if I use an overflow box, you take one electrical item out of the equation, as when the return pump from the sump starts filling the DT, the water "overflows" to the Box and gravity does the rest. Is this correct?

2. Using the DIY posed above, it says to use 3/4 PVC, and then for my return use 1inch. Is this OK? What gph am i looking for going into the sump? What gph am i looking for returning to the DT.

3. Are these bulbs OK for FOWLR and possibly some easy coral down the line, with the intent to upgrade at some point.
Ocean Sun Fluorescent T-8 Lamp - 10,000k - 15W - 18 in. | ThatPetPlace.com
Coral Sun 420nm T8 Actinic Fluorescent Lamp - 18 in. | ThatPetPlace.com

4. Ill decide on sand. Using some online Calculators ill need about 35-50 pounds for a 2-3" sand bed in the DT. Assuming the use of 13" baffles, how deep of a sand bed should i use in the sump? 2-3 or 6-8?

5. RO/DI - Which of these two would you perfer? If neither, what should i be looking for?
AQUARIUM II RO/DI REVERSE OSMOSIS WATER FILTER AQUASAFE | eBay

Amazon.com: Coralife 05692 Pure-Flo II 50-Gallon Per Day 4 Stage RO/DI System: Pet Supplies Amazon.com: Coralife 05692 Pure-Flo II 50-Gallon Per Day 4 Stage RO/DI System: Pet Supplies


Whew! I think thats it. Like I said, thank you for everyone for the individual attention. I hope to be back with a build log soon.

Oh and the last thing, what does eveyone think of a goby/shrimp pair?

Thanks
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