I was gifted a double decker stand with a 25gallon and 20 High tank. I wanted to know if this would be an OK to start a SW tank for a newbie. I have freshwater but im trying to decide what I want to do with these tanks. I cannot fit anything bigger for at least two years, so this is all I have to work with.
I know i would need:
Filter, Heater, hood, etc normal stuff
Protein skimmer
ro/di unit
live Sand/ live rock
API master SW test kit and a refractometer.
FOWLR would be my start, adding easy coral if possible at some point. Also love shrimp/ crabs. Is this possible, and what would be my possible stock list. If i like it and decide to go with SW then ill start picking your brain on equipment.
i do not suggest keeping snails in your sump. it is possible but personally i had to move all my livestock into my refuge once including my snails, after moving things back up to my display ive missed a few snails down there and have since burned out two skimmer pumps due to snail shells getting stuck in the pump intake.
i also strongly suggest on that sump design to skip on adding live rock rubble and keeping it in the display as it can create an issue collecting debris and allowing it to break down into nutrients ( similiar to bio balls ) in the slower flowing area of a refugium. maybe keep 1-3 baseball sized rocks in there and rotate 1 up to the display once a week. even doing this can pose an issue of trapping debris in the refugium though so keep an eye out. the rest of the sump looks good.
i do not suggest keeping snails in your sump. it is possible but personally i had to move all my livestock into my refuge once including my snails, after moving things back up to my display ive missed a few snails down there and have since burned out two skimmer pumps due to snail shells getting stuck in the pump intake.
i also strongly suggest on that sump design to skip on adding live rock rubble and keeping it in the display as it can create an issue collecting debris and allowing it to break down into nutrients ( similiar to bio balls ) in the slower flowing area of a refugium. maybe keep 1-3 baseball sized rocks in there and rotate 1 up to the display once a week. even doing this can pose an issue of trapping debris in the refugium though so keep an eye out. the rest of the sump looks good.
So best/no fuss way of maintaining the sump is skimmer, fuge with sand only and macro algea, and return. Any additions may need more maintainance and have extra consequences?
For my baffles, they dont have to have teeth, correct? Any changes you would propose on my design?
Thanks! Only reason I was gonna put LR down there was 1)for the pods, and 2)because I heard it helped cut down on micro bubbles if you put them by the pipes
This is true. I always kept a couple of large pieces of LR in my sump for a hiding place for pods so I could switch it to the display every once in a while. But like OF2F said, make sure there is enough surface area on the rock, as rubble just traps detritus.
they will live in the chaeto and be in your display as it is. letting the tank mature before fish will help get your pod population strong but just about any fish will see a pod as a snack making their numbers decrease as the fish increase.
Its basic to split the return off, you do this to fine tune the return flow. If you get a pump that is close to or over the overflow box into the sump, yoiu use the T line with ball valve to fine tune the return. If you do not do this, its possible to overflow the DT. If you get a return pump that is lower flow than the Overflow is then you need not install the T line. I have one on mine, but its not in use at this time. I installed it incase I had to get another pump and it was over what was needed on the system.
OK so I am better with this second design, with the return in the middle, then i am with my first design? If so I will redo the plans so I can spec out the glass for the baffles.
Ah, not really better. You can add a T off anywhere you want to. I have mine on my left side. I have my sump compatmented by just using egg crate to section it off, just to keep the cheato from going into the are where my return and skimmer pumps are. The other section has the Macro Algae and intake lines in it.Desing is up to you, there are a vast number of different ways it can be done. I did it my way, to utilize all the space there was.
Ah, not really better. You can add a T off anywhere you want to. I have mine on my left side. I have my sump compatmented by just using egg crate to section it off, just to keep the cheato from going into the are where my return and skimmer pumps are. The other section has the Macro Algae and intake lines in it.Desing is up to you, there are a vast number of different ways it can be done. I did it my way, to utilize all the space there was.
OK, well maybe ill stick to my old way. I think it keeps things simple IMHO
OK, well here is the deal. Im having money issues. So, this is going to be delayed. Im gonna ask a few questions and thank everyone for the personalized support. Hopefully you will see me get started in the next month or so.
1. Using the DIY overflow posted eariler from reefing, my understanding is that when the power goes back on, im relying on both the return sump and the powerhead to recreate the cycle, where if I use an overflow box, you take one electrical item out of the equation, as when the return pump from the sump starts filling the DT, the water "overflows" to the Box and gravity does the rest. Is this correct?
2. Using the DIY posed above, it says to use 3/4 PVC, and then for my return use 1inch. Is this OK? What gph am i looking for going into the sump? What gph am i looking for returning to the DT.
4. Ill decide on sand. Using some online Calculators ill need about 35-50 pounds for a 2-3" sand bed in the DT. Assuming the use of 13" baffles, how deep of a sand bed should i use in the sump? 2-3 or 6-8?
Just want to get something straight... If you don't use the aqualifter in a reef ready tank you will flood after a power outage? I thought the whole point of reef ready was preventing floods. :facepalm:
No worries. The more learning here the better. Im just going to be creeping around the site taking more info in until I can build the funds to move forward.
Here is a horrible (sry) pic of what I have. Im thinking the 20 on the bottom is too tall for the skimmer and all. Maybe I should grab a 15 gallon which will give me a few more inches of height to work with.
GF wants to lend me they money to order everything right away. Since I already have to wait a month or so for the tank to be ready for fish she rather her buy everything that way it can cycle, and i can pay her back gradualy part by part as it cycles. I think she is just excited for a clown fish :love2:
Anyways, Im not doing anything until we get the security deposit back from our old place. But maybe I can get started sooner than expected.
Im also waiting to hear if my friends dad can cut glass for me as he works in a large glass shop :-D.
On the sump, i guess Ill wait untill I get the skimmer to see how it fits, as Id rather use the 20 gal I already have.
hmmm.... yea that's not gonna fit....... I guess I wont have anything to hang it from either since its a metal stand. For the bulb. What am i looking at spec wise for the bulb (k rating). Daylight bulb?
4100k, 5000k, 6500k, 6700k. No need to get Reef specific lamps. I use a 96w watt power compact over mine, leave it on 24-7. Used that one only because my set up would not allow for that big spot lamp either. And I had a spare fixuture laying around. You could use a T-5 small unit if you wanted, they fit alot better in tight spaces.
You do'nt have to run it 24-7. And no it doesn't over heat my stuff. Most run the Sump light on when their DT light is off, this stabilizes the PH better, keeps it from falling at night.
My issue is, My hood only has one hole in the back so i would be unable to fit the overflow and return. I dont want to cut a hole in the plasic as it would ruin the built in filter (its an eclipse hood with bio-wheel). Im not sure if Ill use this hood for FW in the future, I dont want to damage the hood as its expensive, and maybe I can sell it at some point.
SO.... I have to get a new hood now, and since my T-8's are built into the hood I need new lights. Since i need this tank covered, I also need to buy/build something. Any ideas?
I could buy the second one here and fit it in my hood like you see in the first link. I would need to lift the hood to turn the lights on and off. DO you run the blue and white at the same time?
Well it would fit in that space. It would be close to the water so I'll have to make sure that's OK. And the hood is not vented to well. I guess I would be ok taking my dremel To the hood. As it it looks nice and it will be easier than building something from scratch.
I think im getting some good ideas. I'll take some pics and post my ideas later.
The tank may not be started untill November. I just really want to do SW as I already have a 29 freshwater and I don't wanna have two similar size FW tanks at the same time. So I may just keep brainstorming for another month or so here if ya don't mind then buy everything and once and get started. Posted via Mobile Device
If you use the LED's you won't have to worry to much about heat in the hood. They will produce some, but not very much compared to any of the flourescent lights.
?. The ones that I posted. Don't know if they'll fit in the hood. You'd have to take measurements. Then again, there are a ton out there to choose from.
It would fit. I just wanted to make sure that only one will work for coral. I guess you would not have posted it if it did not. Here are very rough plans for my hood mods. As you can see, there are compartments for a filter and bio wheel. I won’t need these so I will cut them out. There three orange squares in the first pic are the areas where the hood rests on the tank so If I don’t touch those then it will still sit properly.
I will also be able to retain the built in cable management for the lights and power heads.
I have to cut those compartments to allow for clearance for the intake since there is currently only one hole in the back of the hood.
I did not include a pic of the lights, as you can see it in this link that Reefing posted. With a few minor cuts, the above LED strip will fit. Issue is, it looks like you can only hang these lights, so I reached out to the seller to ask if there is a way to mount them.
When you get them, take the backing off and screw them to you lid, then put then put the LED face plate back on. And may I add, this thing is going to be cool once your done!!
Thats what I figured I could do. Thanks very much. Could not have got this far without everyones help. Im trying to save as much money as possible to get started ASAP. It may be sooner, or it may be later this year (maybe I can have people buy me items for christmas :-D, or maybe earlier with black friday deals)
About stock. Does this work:
Ocellaris Clownfish
Yellow Watchman Goby (or whatever will pair with a shrimp)
Pistol Shimp (or whatever pairs with my Goby)
Firefish
CUC - Whatever snails and crabs that would work. Hermits preferred if reef safe.
Brittle Starfish
No idea if this is overstocked, understocked, or just right. I know everyone says "pick out what you like" but the truth is I still know very little, and im continuing to research in this downtime, so besides just "correcting" my stock if it is not OK, feel free to make specific suggestions of additions or changes, and ill take the time to look into the fish and see if I like it.
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