Stinking Water New Tank - Page 3 - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources
Closed Thread
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #21 of 196 Old 09-30-2009, 10:56 AM
Arkamaic's Avatar
What kinda of water are you using to supply your tank? I noticed you said you were using the Kent RO system and bottled mineral water to fill your tank, are you still using the bottled water to fill it? IF you are, test the water from the bottle. As there may be nitrates in there.

Also, how much live rock do you have in the tank at this moment? LR is a big part of the filtration in any tank. At one point or another, most rock turns into live rock in aquariums.

If you try your luck, chances are itl be bad. Fish may be fine for a week or so, but then may die due to your water not being ready.

"Everyman dies, not every man truly lives." - William Wallace
Arkamaic is offline  
Sponsored Links
post #22 of 196 Old 09-30-2009, 01:58 PM
Pasfur's Avatar
Originally Posted by zaitmi View Post
29th Sept09
Test results
Nitrate 20 ppm (yesterday 20 ppm)
ph - 7.8
salinity - 1.022 (the Red Sea salt pack says to keep 1.020 in 30 deg. celcius)
temp - 31 deg. celcius.

Why my nitrates are not coming down from last week? Plz help.

Let them be i will try my luck with 1 damsel or......... :(
Patience, my friend, patience. This first month is only a month. You want many years of success with this tank, which you will have! Just be patient.

Your Nitrates will only begin to drop after denitrifying bacteria develop in your sand bed and deep inside your live rock. You are not even close to this happening. You probably have 8 to 10 more weeks before you will see Nitrates begin to drop.

Don't worry, you can add fish before the Nitrate drop. Your only concern right now should be with getting the pH and alkalinity stable. These 2 readings are the BIGGEST stress factor for marine fish. As soon as you have the pH stable at 8.0-8.4 and the alkalinity at 8-12 dkh & calcium at 400-460ppm, you are ready for fish. This assumes the Nitrites and ammonia are zero.

Another issue, your salinity is to low. Ignore the package. You want 1.023 to 1.024, which is natural seawater.
Pasfur is offline  
post #23 of 196 Old 10-01-2009, 02:32 AM Thread Starter
zaitmi's Avatar
Arkamic reply : I am using Kent RO Water purifier. But small dead particles flying on the rocks 8kg rocks. I will add some more very soon. .

Pasfur reply : Thanks maaan.
27th Sept09
Test results.
Ammonia - 0 ppm.
Nitrite - No kit
Nitrate 20 ppm (yesterday 20 ppm)
ph - 8.0 (Yahoo!!:)
salinity - 1.022
temp - 32deg. celcius.

My LFS says why Calcium test when u are not using any corals ? Not reqd. he is confusing me bro? Not getting alkalinity test kit here in India(Kolkata) :( > But i will Calcium Test Kit.
Salinity is 1.022

Now regarding the smell(odour in my tank) It is still there(comes and goes after water changing). Here is column i got from the net which says to keep your lights on to kill Hydrogen Sulphide (So i am keeping my lights on for 8hrs. daily (T5 + Aqua Coral). My LFS also insisted to keep the lights on for the bad smell to go away.

Rotten Egg Smell – Hydrogen Sulfide
Filed under: Aquarium Environment
If your saltwater aquarium smells like rotten eggs (or eggs in general), you’re smelling hydrogen sulfide. In an aquarium environment, hydrogen sulfide is usually caused by organic material (i.e. food particles, feces, dead material) rotting in a place without oxygen.
Usually the only non-oxygenated area in your saltwater aquarium is beneath your substrate. Organic slipped beneath your substrate and is decaying without oxygen. This is basically the nitrogen cycle without the oxygen.
Hydrogen sulfide could occur if you’ve had a power failure and organic material left in the filter has started decaying without oxygen. Make sure you flush out your filter before starting it back up, in this case.
Ways To Address Hydrogen Sulfide Problem
The most common way to address hydrogen sulfide problem in your saltwater aquarium is to remove deposits in your substrate.
The first step is to remove all living organisms to another tank. That includes fish, living rocks and corals, invertebrates like crabs or shrimp, and everything else.
If there are organisms that you can’t remove (for whateve rreason), there are steps you can take to maximize their survival.
1. Do the change the brightest lights possible. The lights drive higher oxygen concentrations and the oxygen will help neutralize hydrogen sulfide.
2. Add iron supplements to the water. The iron will bind to the sulfide, making it neutral to living organisms. Where can i get iron supplements ?
3. Make sure there’s plenty of oxygen in the water. The primary way oxygen enters a tank is through oxygen exchange between the water surface and air. Run a powerhead to circulate water from the bottom to the top for several days before the change.
4. Before and during the substrate change, run your saltwater aquarium water through granular ferric oxide (GFO) and activated carbon.
Ways To Prevent Hydrogen Sulfide Problem
One of the best ways to prevent hydrogen sulfide problem in your saltwater aquarium substrate is to run an undergravel filterplate. This will circulate water from your tank through your substrate and properly oxygenating them.
Keep housekeeping invertebrates like hermits crabs or shrimp. They do a fantastic job of scavenging food from substrate surface, before they can slip between the cracks and into the deep.

Sunlight, both visible and ultraviolet, play a pivotal role in breaking down hydrogen sulfide to safe forms. Having proper lighting will go a long way to prevent future hydrogen sulfide outbreak:
  • Super High Output (SHO)
  • Compact Fluorescent Light (CFL)
  • Metal Halide
  • LED
Don’t bury live rock in your substrate. Otherwise, the portion that’s buried will die and start to rot beneath the surface. Rather, use dead rocks as a base and place live rocks on them.
Final Thoughts
Like keeping the nitrogen cycle in control (ammonia, nitrite, nitrate), controling hydrogen sulfide is a part of owning a saltwater aquarium. Proper maintenance will go a long way to prevent any serious conditions.

Last edited by zaitmi; 10-01-2009 at 02:45 AM.
zaitmi is offline  
post #24 of 196 Old 10-01-2009, 02:44 AM Thread Starter
zaitmi's Avatar
Aquarium (and Pond) Answers: Hydrogen Sulfides

Another study showed that when 300 ppb hydrogen sulfide was added to Biscayne Bay and Gulf Stream waters off of Florida, the half life of the sulfide was 49 and 147 minutes, respectively. Such studies found that sunlight (both ultraviolet and visible) was able to significantly accelerate the oxidation.
This speaks “loudly” for strong lighting whether it be healthy 6400 K SHO lamps or Metal Halide (which my previous notes in reef keeping showed NO hydrogen sulfide production when these lights were employed). This also shows one more reason why a UV Sterilizer should be used, whether fresh or saltwater if they can at all be afforded (of which UV Sterilizers are not all that expensive, even for good quality models such as the Terminator).
zaitmi is offline  
post #25 of 196 Old 10-02-2009, 06:43 AM
Pasfur's Avatar
Originally Posted by zaitmi View Post
My LFS says why Calcium test when u are not using any corals ? Not reqd. he is confusing me bro? Not getting alkalinity test kit here in India(Kolkata) :( > But i will Calcium Test Kit.
Salinity is 1.022
By saying this, your LFS has given you enough information to make you no longer accept their advice as having any credibility. Alkalinity, Calcium, and pH are all connected, so to speak. You will work very hard to be successful in the marine hobby until you understand this relationship. The marine hobby is not difficult, and should not be overly time consuming, provided you use the correct equipment and understand what is happening with your water and how to adjust these parameters. If you are unable to purchase an alkalinity test kit in your part of the world, then use the internet. Here is the test kit you need:
Alkalinity Pro Test Lab | Alkalinity Test Kits & Refills | Test Kits & Refills | Aquarium -

On the next topic, you do not have a problem with hydrogen sulfide. This is a problem that occurs in established aquariums that are not set up correctly to begin with. You do not have this issue. You have live rock that is still curing. Your problem happens all the time with new live rock shipments. Let me put it this way... if you were driving your car and it suddenly began to sputter and then stopped, and the gas gauge said you are out of gas, would you continue to look for another problem? No, you would buy some gas!!! This is how easy your situation in the aquarium is. There is nothing to think about. It is obvious.

I agree with these comments that a UV Sterilizer is beneficial. I use one myself.
Pasfur is offline  
post #26 of 196 Old 10-02-2009, 07:10 AM Thread Starter
zaitmi's Avatar
Thanks for the reply, so after checking the calcium test i will put a couple of damsels if the test are within normal range. i hope the stink doesnt bother them. but it stinks only bad when i smell my fingers very closely. yes my rock are curing. My LFS fooled my by saying it they are cured. damn it bro.

Ok but petplace do they supply in india. let see. i will chk that ourt now.
zaitmi is offline  
post #27 of 196 Old 10-02-2009, 08:10 AM
Pasfur's Avatar
If they do not ship to india, find another online supplier that does. There are endless internet sources to order supplies from, and the costs are much lower than at your LFS.

Not having an alkalinity test kit, we are going to have to "guess" at where things stand, after a calcium and pH test. Calcium will give you a pretty good indicator in a new tank of where the alkalinity is.

For the record, I am 100% against adding fish to this tank until after the rock is cured and the smell is gone. This statement gives me the right, at a later date, to say "I told you so".
Pasfur is offline  
post #28 of 196 Old 10-04-2009, 03:27 AM Thread Starter
zaitmi's Avatar
That costs a lot bro to supply in india around $75 for the kit (freight is $71). Thats too high. I will find soon a dealer locally. Thats fine.

I replaced 25 ltrs. (around 30%) water from my tank today. The stink was still thr.
But i need to ask you something i am dying to put the fish in my tank. My whole family wants them. Everybody is tired waiting.
I have an idea. Can i put my rocks in another plastic tub in saltwater with a powerhead to get it cured for a month or so and in the meantime if the smell goes off in the tank by replacing some more water. i can add fish here in my tank after checking the calcium and ph. I have an internal filter which can take care for sometime. i will be getting the calcium kit by tomorrow or day after.

Have u seen the picture of my tank.

plz answer.

Last edited by zaitmi; 10-04-2009 at 03:44 AM.
zaitmi is offline  
post #29 of 196 Old 10-05-2009, 04:31 AM Thread Starter
zaitmi's Avatar
Good News. I just caught my Live rock supplier and took him to my home last night as to why still stinking. He replaced my internal filterand said that is the cause. he then installed top filter with some Zeolite stones (will add charcoal and ceramic rings tmrw). My God today when i put my hand in the tank the water, it smells fresh. Wow I am so happy. No bad smell at all.

I think my problem was internal filter which was not cleaned since last when i bought it and installed it.

No test done yet. today i will chk Ammonia(again) Ph and Nitrates. I am still waiting for the calcium testkit thru my LFS.

Plz help whats next ?
zaitmi is offline  
post #30 of 196 Old 10-06-2009, 07:06 AM
Pasfur's Avatar
Originally Posted by Pasfur View Post
As for filtration on a saltwater tank, I suggest you take some time to look at the "Pictures and Videos" section of this website. You will find many examples of successful marine aquariums. As you do, you will see that nearly all of these have one thing in common. They rely on live rock, live sand, and a protein skimmer as the method of filtration. Regardless of tank size, this method will allow you the greatest opportunity to succeed, and is BY FAR the least time consuming. Water changes will be minimal, as little as 3 to 5 gallons per MONTH.

The reason you should not be using any other form of filtration is simple. Hang on power filters, biological filters, internal mechanical and chemical filters, these all do things to the water which cause an increase in nitrates and phosphates. In a marine aquarium we are trying to eliminate nitrates and phosphates, so using a filter which INTENTIONALLY inputs these elements into the aquarium just doesn't make any sense. A protein skimmer will directly REMOVE the waste, without negative side effets.

Additionally, the long term stability of your system will depend greatly on your ability to manage the relationship between calcium, alkalinity, and pH. These levels are much easier to maintain when the organic acids (waste) are directly removed by the protein skimmer. When these acids are broken down, as occurs with other filtration methods, carbonates are removed from the buffer system, causing fluctuating calcium and alkalinity.

I strongly suggest that you replace your internal filter with an appropriate protein skimmer. We can discuss options for you if you like.
Please read this again, because you are moving in a direction that is in complete opposite of what this hobby is all about. I am not sure how to help you at this point, because you are looking at the short term, as opposed to long term stability.
Pasfur is offline  
Closed Thread

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Ich! (If I want to add water from my old tank to my new one...) Austin Tropical Fish Diseases 1 02-02-2010 01:03 AM
New Tank Water ok? pelcofresh Beginner Freshwater Aquarium 1 01-16-2008 10:55 PM
tank water? saint Beginner Freshwater Aquarium 3 01-06-2008 11:19 PM
Salt water vs. fresh water tank for a beginner humsuplou Beginner Saltwater Aquariums 6 12-13-2007 09:32 PM
Tank water musho3210 Water Chemistry 4 02-19-2007 11:27 PM

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome