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starting new 110G fowlr

This is a discussion on starting new 110G fowlr within the Beginner Saltwater Aquariums forums, part of the Saltwater Fish and Coral Reef Tanks category; --> Ok will try to make it to lfs this week end to see what options he has for sump, protien skimmer and ro/di filter. ...

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starting new 110G fowlr
Old 02-17-2010, 07:30 PM   #11
 
Ok will try to make it to lfs this week end to see what options he has for sump, protien skimmer and ro/di filter. Also will see if i can return wet/dry filter or maybe convert it to sump that will work for (skimmer, heater, etc ) i like the ideal of tank with cover and not much fabrication and that is sized correctly for my tank.
With that said i will also see what else i can change letting him know that im going
to start my tank as a fowlr tank.
I was getting sponge, carbon, bio balls and tank blend which i believe is used to convert tap water at start. Keep in mind i havent sat down with him yet for training as he said he would do when i pick up my tank.
From listening to you people and doing more research on my own it seems that all i will need for start up with ro/di water is salt is that correct.
Also should i buy extra material for anything that i will be needing in the future. Ie skimmer
could you also guide me on how much sand you think i will need.
The tank is 110g that is 48" x 30" x 18" in size
not sure if i sould stay btwn 1" and 2" or 4" and 6"
thanks again for the help
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Old 02-20-2010, 08:52 PM   #12
 
today i went to the lfs i went over a couple of things with him.
first off the wet/dry filter is out, the bio balls are out and the sponge is out.
replacing it is a sump with refugium.
he called it refugium?
i also purchased a ro/di filter, 150lbs salt, hydrometer, and pump so i can pump out of 44gallon brute garbage cans from my basement to my tank on the first floor.
tomorrow i will purchase the brute garbage cans and a couple of five gallon buckets.
i think i can mix the water before the tank comes and have a jump on things.
i also think i can have just ro/di water for top off in the five gallon bucket.
what is your thoughts?
also not sure what im trying to accomplish with a refugium tank can someone explain this to me in lamans terms to me i will greatly appreciate it.
thanks again
working hard not to be totaly clueless dom.
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Old 02-20-2010, 10:20 PM   #13
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pasfur View Post
As always, Jon and I see eeye to eye on marine filtration concepts. By the way, about 3 or 4 months ago Marco Rocks began to cure their dry rock before shipping. Since this time, it is really not necessary to cure the rock before placing it into the tank. This is new, so I don't think Jon is aware of this yet. My step brother, ShaggyLawson, just ordered from Marco and placed the rock directly in the tank. There was no spike in ammonia or nitrite, so I trust the process. My last order in November 2009 was also added directly to my 180, with no spike.

Given that your tank is new and without fish, I would add the dry rock directly to the tank. The live rock will provide the bacteria (as Jon said) and quickly seed the dry rock. Given that all marine fish are quarantined for 3 weeks prior to adding to the tank, you will have no issues with having the correct amount of rock or bacteria to support livestock.
My order of dry rock in November of 2009 from Marco Rocks was also cured. I bought too much rock and have about 20 pounds of base and 80 pounds of sand left over to kick start my big reef tank when I am ready to set it up.

Good luck with the 110. You have some great resources on this site (several of home are contributing to this thread). Good luck and take it slow. :)
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Old 02-20-2010, 10:27 PM   #14
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dom2477 View Post
Ok will try to make it to lfs this week end to see what options he has for sump, protien skimmer and ro/di filter. Also will see if i can return wet/dry filter or maybe convert it to sump that will work for (skimmer, heater, etc ) i like the ideal of tank with cover and not much fabrication and that is sized correctly for my tank.
With that said i will also see what else i can change letting him know that im going
to start my tank as a fowlr tank.
I was getting sponge, carbon, bio balls and tank blend which i believe is used to convert tap water at start. Keep in mind i havent sat down with him yet for training as he said he would do when i pick up my tank.
From listening to you people and doing more research on my own it seems that all i will need for start up with ro/di water is salt is that correct.
Also should i buy extra material for anything that i will be needing in the future. Ie skimmer
could you also guide me on how much sand you think i will need.
The tank is 110g that is 48" x 30" x 18" in size
not sure if i sould stay btwn 1" and 2" or 4" and 6"
thanks again for the help
I went all RODI water when I started my fowlr. I am thankful I did because I caught the coral bug pretty quick.

Since you will have a sump/'fuge you can keep your tank at 1" or so for aesthetic purposes if you like the look better. The purpose of the 4" to 6" bed is for denitrification purposes. You can accomplish this in your fuge.
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Old 02-21-2010, 12:55 PM   #15
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dom2477 View Post
today i went to the lfs i went over a couple of things with him.
first off the wet/dry filter is out, the bio balls are out and the sponge is out.
replacing it is a sump with refugium.
he called it refugium?
...
also not sure what im trying to accomplish with a refugium tank can someone explain this to me in lamans terms to me i will greatly appreciate it.
Ok. I use a system very similiar to this one on my own tank. I have a 150 gallon Reef Ready tank. I am running a reef with half a dozen fish and LPS and soft corals.

My overflows run into my sump. At the inlet of the sump I keep my Protein Skimmer (a Berlin Classic) and then the water flows into the next chamber: the Refugium. In my refugium I keep a Deep Sand Bed (5"), Live Rock (about five lbs) and MacroAlgae. Think of Macroalgae as the underwater plants. I keep Cheato and a leaf style macro. I keep these under a 6500k daytime bulb that goes on opposite my light schedule.

The idea of the macroalge is to absorb excess nutrients in the water that nuisance algaes compete for. The Macro in this case starves the hair algaes and other nuisance algaes by using up the nutrients in the water column.

From the refugium the water flows over a bubble trap and into the pump chamber, where it is pumped into the display.

I hav included a pic to better illustrate my sump:

2010-02-21 13_49_57.jpg

2010-02-21 13_50_10.jpg
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Old 02-25-2010, 04:57 PM   #16
 
still waiting for tank and stand, filled about 70g of ro/di water in plastic tubs and added salt mix.
having problem getting accurate reading on my instant ocean hydrometer.
maybe to early to test ( not min 24hrs yet will try again tomorrow )
does anyone have any recommendations as to a good, reliable and some what easy to use htdrometer?
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Old 02-26-2010, 08:43 AM   #17
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dom2477 View Post
still waiting for tank and stand, filled about 70g of ro/di water in plastic tubs and added salt mix.
having problem getting accurate reading on my instant ocean hydrometer.
maybe to early to test ( not min 24hrs yet will try again tomorrow )
does anyone have any recommendations as to a good, reliable and some what easy to use htdrometer?
If you are getting inaccurate readings on your hydrometer, than try tapping it a few times to shake the bubbles off the arm. Any air trapped on the arm can throw off the reading. Also, make sure you rinse out the hydro well, so salt isn't stuck to it, again throwing off the reading. You might just want to check eBay for an inexpensive refractometer. This will be far more accurate than a hydrometer.
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Old 03-02-2010, 08:34 PM   #18
 
still waiting for tank and stand, ( snow storm delayed delivery ) filled about 110g + of ro/di water in plastic tubs and added salt mix.
hydrometer is working fine after wake's advice on rinsing well very good and tapping. ( thanks wake)
all salinity is in range but not all exactly the same but this should be fine after it mix's in the tank.
have heaters in three out of four tubs and they are coming to range right now about 70-72 degrees.
i expect my tank any day now but im getting worried how long my water can stay in tubs i dont have any movement in them. i hand stir them when i can but i dont know if thats enough?
i heard people mix water in tubs all the time for water changes but i think they must have movement.
any input would be appreciated for my existing water and future water change"s

thanks dom2477
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Old 03-03-2010, 07:31 AM   #19
 
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It would be nice if you had water movement, but I wouldn't discard the water. When you are ready to use it, add a powerhead to let it mix overnight. Then test pH to make sure it is ok.
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Old 03-17-2010, 08:07 PM   #20
 
]tank is set up for about one and a half weeks now.
salinity at 1.022, nitrite at .05, nitrate at .10,
ammon at .25 was .50 alk at 2.6 and ph at 8.6
approximate 75lbs live fiji rock from lfs and
50lbs cured key largo rock from marco rock
100lbs argonite sand
2 snails, 2 crabs and some other spikey thing dont see it much but live ( all stow aways )
started with 12 small damsells down to 7. they just vanish.
i see a little brown growing now, temp 78
here are a few pics
fish tank1.jpg
fish tankl.jpg
sump.jpg
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